Sorry to jump into your thread here, but i have a similar issue with my front wheel bearings thought why create another thread. I came on here to do a browse and search and came across this thread. I have 2001 4wd that I have been noticing some noise like something was loose on the front end for several weeks now and was unable to located the source. Just this past weekend I started noticing bearing noise, that is unmistakable. After talking around to a few folks it seems that this may be a common occurance with the super duty. It seems that you have the same issue as I do, if not I will ask in another thread. Are these the same symptoms that you had? Is there a way to know which part I need without actually pulling the hubs (Im at work now) e.g. coarse threads, 4 wheel or 2 wheel ABS etc. It appears that each of those has different part numbers when ordering. Is this a readily available item at a parts house or odering online? Or will it take a week or so to order and come in? Havent had to order any parts of this nature for my truck so I am unaware.

How involved a job is this? After looking through my Hanes manual it doesnt seem that bad. From some quick internet searches it appears that the entire hub needs to be changed and not just the bearing, or is this the preferred repair, not the necessary repair? Any special tools required? Etc Etc.. Im asking here trying to gather some info is all. Any info you guys can give is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Here's a good writeup on the hub R&R. Not a bad job but it can be a knuckle buster getting the four inner nuts to break loose. Use plenty of PB Blaster on the nuts.

Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page

 

Be sure to put it back together using a torque wrench. Those inner hub nuts NEED to be that tight, as do the brake caliper bracket bolts.

Pop

 

Good point, Pop. I had to borrow a bigger torque wrench to get those to spec. I felt like my entire body weight was needed to get them to click.

 

Not a problem!


As far the the wheel bearing unit goes - yes, I noticed the same (or similar) noise. If you take your tire off and grasp the wheel bearing unit, you should not be able to move it from side-to-side or up-and-down. If you can, then it must be replaced.


Yes, you can figure it out without pulling the hubs.

1. IIRC, you can give your VIN to a parts store and they can tell you which specific system you have (2 wheel ABS, 4 wheel ABS, etc).

2. You can take one lug nut off of the wheel and see if the threads are coarse or fine. For ABS, check to see which of your tires have ABS lines running to the wheel bearing units. <a href="http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/nblube.php">Guzzle's Needle Bearing Lube page</a> has a pic of the wire. It is the wire that he has a ratchet to in the second pic of the dis-assembly section.

If you only have ABS wires at the front, then you have 2 wheel ABS.

If you have ABS wires to all 4 wheel bearing units, then you have 4 wheel ABS.


It is generally an item that can be shipped the same day. Even up here in northern Canada they had one on the shelf when I needed one quick.


The entire unit must be changed.

It may seem involved the first time you do it, but once you have changed one it is really quite easy and can be done in less than an hour. If it takes longer than that, it's because the rotor or the wheel bearing unit is rusted on, but with some persuasion they will come off. Clean your parts up a bit and use anti-seize and/or grease where required when you put everything back together.

That Guzzle link will walk you through it and even contains the torque specs for reassembly.

HTH

 

Thanks guys. Appreciate it. Will probably tackle this job this evening or tommorrow.

The powers of the internet!! I thank God everyday that Al Gore invented this thing.

 

Yet another tidbit of advise. Use a 6 point socket to break free the hubs nuts on the backside of the spindle. A twelve point has a tendency to slip if they are on there real tight.

 

Good point. I use 6-point impact sockets and a regular 1/2" breaker bar to get everything loose.

Also, spray everything with a good penetrating oil the day before and let it soak overnight. I use AeroKroil, and have also heard good things about PB Blaster.

 

Your truck should have the coarse thread wheel studs, 14x2.0. I believe the switch was in 2002 or 2003 to the 14x1.5 studs.

 

PB Blaster was a lifesaver in my case. 9 years on one unit...heck of a job without PB I can imagine. I soaked them with PB for 1/2 a day and I did make my knuckles bleed, but the 4 bolts came off!

 

Update.

I went out to double check my hub and could not get it to move like I seemed to have it moving the first time I checked.

Ended up not placing the order and when I got home I took the wheel off to have a better look. Couldn't get that hub to budge!

Put the wheel back on and made a few turns in my driveway to confirm that the issue was on the drivers side, but could not pinpoint anything.

Called one of my daughters outside and had her drive slowly back and forth in the driveway while I walked beside the front tire (she's 14, but can easily handle that!).

After a few back and forth drives I came to the conclusion that it was my ball joints. I just had the other side changed out, and changed the drivers side u-joint on Saturday night (LED headlamps are great!). If I only knew then I could have saved me from having to do it twice.

Bottom line ... I have to really check things out next time and i) don't be so quick to order parts (even tho it cuts down on waiting time for US shipments) and; ii) save myself from having to do the same disassembly twice!

Thanks to all for the help. This thread did get me a few new bookmarks on parts sources so some good came of it!

 

I have an 01 F350 4x4. When I recently changed the ball joints I noticed that the bearing on the drivers side hub had leaked some grease onto the hub surface. I don't find any movement but wondered if I should just re-grease through the ABS sender hole or replace the hub?

 

The seals weep somewhat anyway. Shoot some grease and drive.

I lubed both of mine just prior to leaving on this round-trip to St. Louis, and the inside of my rims are both still clean. That's where any excess grease would eventually end up if it leaked badly.

Pop
Flagstaff tonight, tomorrow home.