Fuel Return Hose Questions
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Fuel Return Hose Questions
As a tangental follow up to this post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...uel-leaks.html
I replaced the fuel bowl on my truck and after doing so discovered that my fuel return hoses were leaking. A quick search around found the below post, among others.
So that resolved the part number issue, but didn't answer my other ones.
1. I have read various accounts of how easy or hard these are to replace. Some just say to remove the Darth Vader cover and remove/replace them, others say you have to dismount the alternator and A/C compressor. Which is correct?
2. What size are the fittings on the hoses? I'd like to use the proper size flare nut wrenches to avoid damage.
3. Powerstrokeshop appears to be dead, what's the current best place to get these?
4. Is there an International counterpart part number, and is it still available?
I replaced the fuel bowl on my truck and after doing so discovered that my fuel return hoses were leaking. A quick search around found the below post, among others.
There seems to be a rash of fuel leaks lately. And most of them seem to be on the soft lines coming from the FPR to the front of the cylinder heads. The hoses that look like hydrolic lines, that connect to the the little 90* fittings on the FPR and cylinder heads.
Well, I went to Ford today and showed them the lines on the truck, instead of guessing. Long story short, I got the lines. Here are the part #'s
Line from FPR to drivers side head......
F4TZ-9D308-A $23.35
Line from FPR to Passenger side head......
F4TZ-9B273-A $50.27
Powerstrokeshop.com has them for alot less. And for the people that have the 3 other soft lines leaking, here are your part #'s.
Well, I went to Ford today and showed them the lines on the truck, instead of guessing. Long story short, I got the lines. Here are the part #'s
Line from FPR to drivers side head......
F4TZ-9D308-A $23.35
Line from FPR to Passenger side head......
F4TZ-9B273-A $50.27
Powerstrokeshop.com has them for alot less. And for the people that have the 3 other soft lines leaking, here are your part #'s.
1. I have read various accounts of how easy or hard these are to replace. Some just say to remove the Darth Vader cover and remove/replace them, others say you have to dismount the alternator and A/C compressor. Which is correct?
2. What size are the fittings on the hoses? I'd like to use the proper size flare nut wrenches to avoid damage.
3. Powerstrokeshop appears to be dead, what's the current best place to get these?
4. Is there an International counterpart part number, and is it still available?
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Eh. It's been hit or miss on that. One local dealership says they will match any internet Ford dealer's parts prices, so I might give that a go.
Kind of surprised that I've not gotten any replies on the coupler size, International part numbers or just generally replacing the things.
Kind of surprised that I've not gotten any replies on the coupler size, International part numbers or just generally replacing the things.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
No go for me. But it is even hard to get them to find me the right parts. Tousley is giving a sweetheart of a deal so you can afford to pay a bit on shipping. I've had nothing but positive business with Tousley, on the occasion that I pay a little more with them(over aftermarket) it is well worth it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Eh. It's been hit or miss on that. One local dealership says they will match any internet Ford dealer's parts prices, so I might give that a go.
Kind of surprised that I've not gotten any replies on the coupler size, International part numbers or just generally replacing the things.
Kind of surprised that I've not gotten any replies on the coupler size, International part numbers or just generally replacing the things.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Got my hoses in - didn't know that Ford was having Aeroquip make the new ones, but both of them were clearly of Aeroquip manufacture and had labels/tags that indicated such.
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
I have read that the hose of the pass side needs to remove the AC, IDK.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Can you link me to where you read that? I can't seem to find anything definitive about what does or does not need to be taken off. Do you happen to recall if it is "dismount and move aside" or if it is "discharge and remove entirely?"
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 115
I recently did my return line from driver side head. You'd have to be a magician to do it without budging the bracket towards the radiator. I did NOT need to remove the compressor from the bracket, though. I guess it's theoretically possible to do it without removing anything, but it would be darn near impossible to get it threaded up.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
I recently did my return line from driver side head. You'd have to be a magician to do it without budging the bracket towards the radiator. I did NOT need to remove the compressor from the bracket, though. I guess it's theoretically possible to do it without removing anything, but it would be darn near impossible to get it threaded up.
What's the best way to accomplish moving that bracket, then?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 115
Remove the serpentine belt, remove the manifold from the back of the compressor, remove the electric lines going to the compressor. Remove the bolts holding the bracket on, perhaps only loosen the bottom-most one. Now, lean the assembly toward the radiator. This should allow access to the line.
Keep in mind that I don't have a fan or fan shroud on my truck. That made this procedure quite a bit easier. Also, don't attempt to remove the compressor if you typically have corrosion issues with your truck. That turned mine into a giant clustermess.
Keep in mind that I don't have a fan or fan shroud on my truck. That made this procedure quite a bit easier. Also, don't attempt to remove the compressor if you typically have corrosion issues with your truck. That turned mine into a giant clustermess.