Axle pivot bushings
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: west michigan
Axle pivot bushings
I've been searching for info on replacing the axle pivot bushings on my 82. I'm pretty sure I won't have any problems actually doing it but I'm not able to find how the bushings are supposed to be installed. I have the ones with the metal sleeve
Energy Suspension Axle Pivot Bushings: ENS-4-3133G - summitracing.com
I notice that the two bushings are slightly different from each other and they both have a separate urethane ring. It might make more sense to me once I get the old ones out but I like to research this stuff before I dive in.
I remember seeing an article about this but I can't remember where.
Thanks a bunch.
Energy Suspension Axle Pivot Bushings: ENS-4-3133G - summitracing.com
I notice that the two bushings are slightly different from each other and they both have a separate urethane ring. It might make more sense to me once I get the old ones out but I like to research this stuff before I dive in.
I remember seeing an article about this but I can't remember where.
Thanks a bunch.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2008
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I'm getting ready to do the same job on my 92 as soon as I get time. I machined a small press to press the old ones out and the new ones in. I'm hoping that it can be done under the truck without removing the axles. I don't see why it can't. I Googled "Ford TTB pivot bushing replacement" and saw an article to replace the pivot bracket. I'm hoping those are still good.
Posting Guru
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From: SE Texas
I have a thread on replacing them, will see if I can find it and post a link, JSM84
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...oval-tool.html
The bushings are pressed in, and require a balljoint press or similar to remove and install them. Some brands of poly bushings do not have the metal sleeve, and state that it must be re-used with the new bushings. That was my case. JSM84
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...oval-tool.html
The bushings are pressed in, and require a balljoint press or similar to remove and install them. Some brands of poly bushings do not have the metal sleeve, and state that it must be re-used with the new bushings. That was my case. JSM84
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: west michigan
Getting it apart doesn't worry me too much. What I'm looking for is how it goes back together. Which bushing goes where (they are a little different from each other) and where the urethane ring goes.
I put a suspension lift on it a few years ago and why I didn't change the bushings then is beyond me
oh well 
I put a suspension lift on it a few years ago and why I didn't change the bushings then is beyond me
oh well
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
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Getting it apart doesn't worry me too much. What I'm looking for is how it goes back together. Which bushing goes where (they are a little different from each other) and where the urethane ring goes.
I put a suspension lift on it a few years ago and why I didn't change the bushings then is beyond me oh well
I put a suspension lift on it a few years ago and why I didn't change the bushings then is beyond me
oh well After doing this job with the metal shell replacements, I wish I'd have gotten the replacement bushings that utilizes the original oem shell. Would have been much simpler.
Have fun!
Posting Guru
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From: SE Texas
sivart, I'm not sure what you mean by the bushings being different from one another? They should be identical for both sides. I usually leave out that extra ring, as it's merely a spacer and often is too wide to install. But if you choose to try using it, it goes opposite of the metal lip, JSM84
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Junior User
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From: west michigan
The link in my original post has a picture of the bushings. If you look real close, one bushing has more urethane showing on the end without the flange but has more on the flange side. The other bushing has less on the flange side and the urethane is beveled. I hope that makes sense 
. I was going to take a picture to point out the differences but ... I just didn't 
If my explanation sucks too bad I'll try to get some pics in the morning.
On a side note, I got the drivers side bushing out without any problems. I'm wondering if I should get this side put back together before I pull the passenger side apart or get both bushings in and then put it all back together. I'd like to do one at a time but if someone has a reason not to I'd love to hear it.
Thanks for all the information. I appreciate you guys.
. I was going to take a picture to point out the differences but ... I just didn't If my explanation sucks too bad I'll try to get some pics in the morning.
On a side note, I got the drivers side bushing out without any problems. I'm wondering if I should get this side put back together before I pull the passenger side apart or get both bushings in and then put it all back together. I'd like to do one at a time but if someone has a reason not to I'd love to hear it.
Thanks for all the information. I appreciate you guys.
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Posting Guru
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From: SE Texas
OK, I think I see what you're saying. As long as the metal sleeve is the same size and length it's fine. You'll find that once you install the new bushings that the poly will tend to mushroom or exude out the end that doesn't have the flange or lip. I've had to trim a few down with a sharp blade so they would fit inside the frame bracket. As long as the bushing portion is not damaged, you should be fine. If the new bushing gives some resistance going in, try a little grease around the outside.
I've always done one side at a time, leaving the other bolted up. Reason is if you unbolt both sides at once, it's harder to get them back in. But if you need the clearance to get one out, then you'll have to drop both sides. JSM84
I've always done one side at a time, leaving the other bolted up. Reason is if you unbolt both sides at once, it's harder to get them back in. But if you need the clearance to get one out, then you'll have to drop both sides. JSM84
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From: west michigan
Well I'm just about finished with the first side and it was easier than I was expecting. ( I tend to overthink things some times ) As usual, I've just about worn out the search button (which explains my pathetic post count) and JSM84's name shows up in just about every search on this subject even on other forums. Thats pretty cool.
I found a picture on SuperMotors.net that showed one of the bushings I have installed (the one with the bevel goes on the drivers side arm, in case someone finds this thread in a search)
OK back to work. I'll post back with my progress later.
I found a picture on SuperMotors.net that showed one of the bushings I have installed (the one with the bevel goes on the drivers side arm, in case someone finds this thread in a search)
OK back to work. I'll post back with my progress later.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Upstate SC
I went to Auto Zone a got a loaner ball joint press..
had to leave a deposit but you get it back 100% when
you return it.. worked great
took about 15 minutes to remove old bushings (10 min
was to figure out the press).. then take a brown 6 x 9
Scotchbrite pad and use it like a shoe shine rag to clean
out the eye and then install the new ones..
don't beat on new bushings to install, easiest way is to use the press..
whole job, 1/2 hour, not counting getting the I beams loose..
Works for leaf spring and shackle bushings too..
had to leave a deposit but you get it back 100% when
you return it.. worked great
took about 15 minutes to remove old bushings (10 min
was to figure out the press).. then take a brown 6 x 9
Scotchbrite pad and use it like a shoe shine rag to clean
out the eye and then install the new ones..
don't beat on new bushings to install, easiest way is to use the press..
whole job, 1/2 hour, not counting getting the I beams loose..
Works for leaf spring and shackle bushings too..
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Did mine saturday. The factory bushings were flaired on the back side. I had to grind the lip off before I could press them out. After I was done I thought I should have just tried to replace the rubber and left the sleave in the axle. That might have been easier.
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From: SE Texas
Good point. On the factory bushings, there is often a small flare to the end without lip. Take a chisel or punch and striaghten out the flare to make it easier for them to press out. The bushings should come out on the side with the lip, and go back in the same way. There should be about 1/4" clearance between the lip and the axle beam for the new bushings. Removing the rubber from the old metal sleeve is near impossible without using a torch, as the rubber is very, very dense. One set took me over 3 hours with a drill and hacsaw blade to remove the rubber for a set of new poly's that came without the metal sleeve. JSM84
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Junior User
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From: west michigan
I cut the rubber out with a hole saw in my drill. Then I took my air saw (uses a blade about the size of a jigsaw blade) and cut into the outer shell in a couple of places and air hammered it the rest of the way out.
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