they should be pretty easy though, considering the axle's out of the vehicle and the old ones are already out. Since the axle didn't come with bushings in it when I bought it, I've got nothing to reference here. The smaller rings, do they go on the bushing and then through the axle, or through the axle and then sit on the end of the bushing protruding through? And does it matter which way the busings go through the axle?

80-96 4WD Axle Pivot Bushings, (Pair) Black

 

Here is some stuff I found , but , I havent found an answer to your question about the ring that came with the parts:
FSB Forums
Complete Dana 44 TTB Tear Down and Rebuild - FSB Forums
These deal with the drain plug istallation for the TTB:
1986 Ford Bronco Drain plug for front TTB axle pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
Drain plug install on TTB front axle - FSB Forums
This one deals specificly with the bushing replacement:
TTB pivot bushing won't stay in the beam - FSB Forums
This one deals with the D50 slip stub mod for the D44:
Front 3rd member and Dana 50 stub shaft install...(56k warning) - FSB Forums

In this diagram it looks almost like the washer is on the outside of the bushing before install:


This does show the direction of the bushings to be installed though.

 

yeah, thats the picture thats in my FSM also. By how thick the flange looks in the picture, I would assume that the ring goes on the flange side, and not on the back. I'll call JBG tomorrow and see what they have to say

 

Now I just ran across this one:
TTB pivot bushing won't stay in the beam - Page 2 - FSB Forums

Somewhere around the upper 20's and lower 30 posts numbers they are discussing this dilema. You need to read it for yourself . However, I was getting the picture that they were saying if you put it on the front side( where the lip is) it wont let the bushing go through far enough to seat on the other side of the beam. It was a little confusing and everywhere they were posting pics of it they wouldnt show on my computer , just those damn little red x's. Then it concludes with something like the urethane ring goes on the back for soem odd reason. Like I was saying it's worth taking a look at before pressing it in wrong and having to remove it again.

BTW, that link you posted had a really good price for the bushings IMO.

 

You could run up to the local JY and take a look at some TTB trucks and see how their bushings are installed.

I can't be much help with these bushings since I've only done 2WD ones, but I will say this....a propane torch makes things go waaaaaay faster if you don't have a press. Them suckers are hard to get in there with just a hammer, especially if they're still on the truck.

I heated up the bushing hole in the beam with the torch until the metal expanded just enough to get the bushing in all the way. Doesn't take very much, but it does make all the difference.

 

luckily one of the guys I work with has a ttb also, so I'll look at his tomorrow. He's from the rust belt though, so hopefully I can see something other than rust. My bushings are already out, so that makes this about a 1000 times easier for me, but I have used the good old torch many times before!

 

lol

It actually wasn't hard for me to get my old bushings out....getting them in was the problem. I had just driven the truck and gotten the engine nice and hot, and the heat from the engine heated the beams to where the bushings came out easy. But the outside temperature was in the 40s-50s when I went to put in the new bushings and by then the truck had cooled and the beam had shrunk. Wish I woulda figured this all out before my friend and I had spent like three hours trying to beat the bushing into submission first. lol

 

hmm, so it looks as if I am missing those inner sleeves. Fun

 

You mean the little metal pieces in the center of the bushings?

 

Yeah, those guys. I'll pull some out of some old shackles today and see if they'll fit