I've got a F250 C/C..... I'm sick of looking at that typical ford body line mismatch....

I want to order one of the Energy Suspension bushing kits but they only list application for the standard and extended cab...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-4-4107R/

I'm assuming this will also fit the Crew Cabs...? Just wanted to get a confirmation from somebody in the KNOW.... Thanks

Al

 

The stock Ford part numbers are the same regardless of cab style, so I see no reason that they wouldn't work for you.

 

Those are the correct ones. For what ever reason FORD only used 4 bushings to support the whole cab on a crew cab just like a reg cab and supercab

 

Are you talking about the cab to bed body lines? Are the cab lines high or low? If bed is lower than cab you can shim the bed up, if the cab is lower than the bed you can see if the bed is shimmed already & remove them. Also, sometimes the rear end has been hit and the rear of the frame is up or down throwing off the lines as well. Just FYI so you don't think all new body mounts are going to solve all of your issues if you haven't looked at the whole picture.

 

Brad and Cheif, thanks for the confirmation.... IMO, It's pure nonsense that they couldn't put another body mount in the middle on the crew cabs..

Yeah the cab to body lines.. The cab is sagging lower than the bed by 1/2" on passenger side..and maybe 1/4" on the drivers side.. I checked them and stock bushings are just mush at this point...

I might have some spring height difference in the rear, theres add a leafs under the spring pack (poor excuse for a lift), plus the heavy duty helper pack clamped onto the top of the spring pack so who knows. I'm gonna rebuild the rear to a LS 4.10 when I do the SAS up front...If its misaligned I'll fix it then... But I should know when I put the body bushing in...


Thanks

 

All good information! I too am surprised that the crew cab doesn't have more mounts.

Does the bed have bushings that can be replaced too? I've got the cab bushings on order.

Also, does the bed have any front-to-back adjustment in it? If I am trying to move my cab back as much as the mounts will allow I'd like to move the bed back too.

 

No mounts for the bed. It gets bolted right to the frame. There is some left-right /froward-backward moment from slop in the bolt holes, but not alot

 

Having recently replaced the cab mounts on my '95 crew I would submit that using a four-point mount is indeed adequate. While mine had developed a bit of a sag over 17 years and 440K miles the new Prothane mounts nicely restored proper cab/bed alignment. The cab is obviously engineered to prevent sag in the midsection as all doors still lined up properly and the four-mount approach allows the body to flex over rough terrain. The polyurethane mounts should easily take this truck well into its next million miles!

A couple of notes about doing this job: The worst part was removing the old mounts due to rust/corrosion. A torch and proper penetrating oil (my personal choice is Kano's Aero Kroil) will prove to be most helpful. When installing the new mounts use an anti-seize compound on all metal to metal contact points just in case you should ever need to remove the cab at a later date.

dn.

 

Are the nuts on the bottom basically lock nuts? Apparently the bolt from the top is threaded into the bottom sleeve. So either I beat the loosened bolts from above or make a puller from below?

 

Puller from below is the most common. You beating from above is going to be futile. You will be bouncing off the rubber bushing

 

For this job, a good penetrating oil and a little soak time are your best friends. (My personal favorite is Kano's AeroKroil.) When I did my crew cab mounts this fall the rear pair were the easiest. They did, however, require that I loosen them to the point where the end of each bolt extended to only the bottom of the nut with integrated washer. Hammer blows from above, using a deep impact socket on the bolt head, dislodged the nut/washer assembly.

The front pair [radiator support] were a bit of a challenge, but access was relatively easy. Keep in mind that these actually have two nuts on each bolt. Remove the top nut from above while holding the bolt head from below. This will allow you to raise the front clip just enough to get some of your penetrating oil down to the bolt threads where they emege from the stamped steel washer-nut. Even so, you may still break one (or both) of the bolts. Should this happen and you are unable to locate a proper replacement, you can use threaded stock. I would suggest you seek out at least a grade 5 if you do not have access to the metric 8.8 or greater grade.

On my truck the middle pair presented the greatest challenge. Even with hours (yes even more than a day) of penetrating oil soak, removal of the bushings still required a touch of the torch. One word of caution here: Hot rubber is molten and the centrifugal force of an impact wrench will fling this molten substance everywhere and it WILL BURN EXPOSED SKIN! Do wear proper gloves and clothing. And, as always, keep your functional fire extinguisher nearby.

With all three pair, take note of shims and their locations during disassembly; being ready to reuse (or not) to achieve proper cab to bed body line alignment.

Having replaced a number of other rubber items with polyurethane components, from Energy Supension as well as others and not regretting it, I opted to do the same for the body mounts; using a set from Prothane. Remember: Always use lubricant - the proper lubricant - for polyurethane components!

As always, if there is ANY possibility that you may need to remove the mounts in the future, or if you just don't want a subsequent owner of the vehicle to think or say bad things about you as a "PO", USE AN ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUND on ALL threaded components!

dn.

 

I was on the fence about buying an impact wrench until I read this... Now I gotta have one!!

 

Are you trying to be the latter day personification of Hephaestus or Vulcan? Or just a Greek preparing to battle Crusaders?

dn.

 

Thanks so all of the information here (you too donner!) I changed mine the other weekend.

The four bolts accessed from inside the cab had only a nut/washer on the very bottom, there were no "two nuts".

An impact is a mandatory tool unless you have someone to hold the other end of the bolt or nut. And the front bolts (accessible under the hood and are 'bolt up' instead of 'bolt down' like the in-cab bolts) will put up a fight all of the way out.

My truck is about as clean and unrusty as you can find but I'd have two new front bolts in hand before I started this project...the design traps water and gunk on the threads. Trust me on this one, have two ready, you can always return them if you don't need them.

Making the pullers was the most time consuming. The rear-most bushings are within some sort of other bracket and the thick PVC that works on the bushings under the front floorboard won't fit. Possibly a thin-wall fence pipe would have worked but I didn't want to go back to Home Depot again. I took a piece of thick walled pipe that was about 2-1/2" in diameter and made sort of a wishbone looking tool by cutting about 1" or so width of material on opposite sides of each other inwards about 8". I pried these apart and then bent each leg so they were again parallel. I made all of these cuts and bends before I cut the tool off about 12". This gave two solid legs to reach through the bracket that was in my way and straddled the bushings.

I used the regular 7/6" all-thread from Home Depot, chasing high dollar bolts wasn't necessary for me. I did use a threaded coupler instead of nuts as it seemed to give more threaded contact surface.

I used the same angle grinder I used to make the puller tool to cut the mushroomed ends off of the nut/washer thingy.

I never had all 6 bolts removed at the same time as I didn't want the cab sliding off the frame. I did have to jack each side higher than I expected so plan ahead with your jack height and blocks and look for any ground straps or wires that might get tight.

I removed the front skid plate, unbolted the driveshaft carrier bearing and tied it out of the way, supported the tank with ratchet straps and after the tank straps were removed the tank was slid far enough to let me remove the driver's side rear-most bushing.

Make sure you make notes and take pictures of how your cab is aligned and centered on your frame and bed before you start this. I pushed my cab around 20 different times trying to get it centered and gaps even when they likely where never even before.

This project took me one weekend to study the truck and the internet. One weekend to fabricate my pullers. And one weekend to perform the actual change.

Please note that a "weekend" for me is only about 3 or 4 hours on a Saturday or a Sunday. Now that I've done this I could do it again in about 2 hours.

 

Wanted to post a follow up. After I had thrown all of the stock rubber bushings away so I had no way to measure them, I noticed my driver's side of the cab is too high. I taked to Energy Suspension and they said they didn't know, maybe I put too many shims under it? There was the same thickness flat washer (really too thin to be called a washer) under all of them. Here are some pics but my reason for bringing this up again are after them.



So I meet someone that was selling parts off of his '95 crew cab F350 and his bed had already been removed. I asked him if he too saw that the gap between the frame and the cab was less than on the passenger's side. He agreed. So that makes me think that on some crew cabs that the back left body bushing is supposed to be a little shorter.

Suggestions or thoughts are welcomed!