E brake doesnt work
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
E brake/parking brake doesnt work
I took some picture of the cables. I would like to know what needs replaced.
without the brake engaged.
and with the brake all the way to the floor (truck moves just like normal though)
Thanks
without the brake engaged.
and with the brake all the way to the floor (truck moves just like normal though)
Thanks
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Denver CO
Before you replace anything check your rear drums to ensure your brake adlusters are not stuck. They have a tendancy to get covered with brake dust and other stuff and quit working. If your rear brakes arent tight the ebrake wont work as it is simply a stretch tight cable w/ no adjustment. If it comes to that you'll probably have to go to the dealer I dont think napa carrys the cables, to replace the stretch tension. I know mine looks real loose too, and it wouldnt stop the truck. But it holds the truck in neutral on a hill which is about all I need it to do (5 spd) easier to start in neutral and let it set for a min.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
Before you replace anything check your rear drums to ensure your brake adlusters are not stuck. They have a tendancy to get covered with brake dust and other stuff and quit working. If your rear brakes arent tight the ebrake wont work as it is simply a stretch tight cable w/ no adjustment. If it comes to that you'll probably have to go to the dealer I dont think napa carrys the cables, to replace the stretch tension. I know mine looks real loose too, and it wouldnt stop the truck. But it holds the truck in neutral on a hill which is about all I need it to do (5 spd) easier to start in neutral and let it set for a min.
Mine will not even hold the truck in place, it sucks always having to have somebody put a block under the tire especally when im adjusting the trailer, its either turn the truck off or put a block of wood down...
EDIT:
BTW i did hook up the trailer jack, i put a female plug end on my truck, ran one side to the trailer wiring ground and spliced it in, and the other directly to the battery.
The jack its self the gound inside was not strong enough, so i soldered a wire onto it and extended it to the length of the 12V wire. put them in a male plug, and it works great!
Also notice you are in Denver, what part?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Denver CO
To check your rear brake adjusters You have to take the rear wheels off and pull off the drums at the top betweeen the shoes is a ratchet of sorts, you can use that to tighten them up till they start to make contact w/ the drum and adjust from there. Glad you got the gizmo figured out. Yeah im in Dnever, I live in Thornton, right by Omera Ford. I work for a truck company for King Soopers/ City Market playing w/ big diesels all the time. If you need help w/ em let me know and Ill give you hand.
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Posting Guru
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
To check your rear brake adjusters You have to take the rear wheels off and pull off the drums at the top betweeen the shoes is a ratchet of sorts, you can use that to tighten them up till they start to make contact w/ the drum and adjust from there. Glad you got the gizmo figured out. Yeah im in Dnever, I live in Thornton, right by Omera Ford. I work for a truck company for King Soopers/ City Market playing w/ big diesels all the time. If you need help w/ em let me know and Ill give you hand.
my dad has never had one and this is my first one. (we have a diesel tractor) I bought a 93 F250 with a 460 in it, played with it for about two months, and then seen a post on craigslist that a guy wanted to trade his powerstroke for a gasser, traded straight across and I got to keep my 315/75/16 tires, so i got a 97 F250 diesel for about 2000 bucks.... turns out he thought the glow plugs were bad (2-3 are) but he had it wired up wrong to where the Glow plugs were only getting power when the engine was cranking... fixed that. Now its leaking fuel, and it needs a new clutch, flywheel, and tranny rebuild (syncros). might even need a new injector or two, as i have a nice knock on the drivers side. All things that I will have to start working on, just dont have the time right now or the money to pay somebody to do it.
Im by the new belmar shopping area.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Denver CO
I work on anything and everything, from the time I was able to walk my grandad put in his shop and started teachin me how fix cars. He put 8 kids through college doin that. I used to work for Wagner Equipment (CAT) out of I-70. And Im just enough of motorhead that I dont care about nessasarily workin for money I simply like fixin stuff, seeing what more I can do to it. I just sold one of my trucks to a video game company based on what it looked like and what it could do. If you ever need any help let me know Ill be glad to help you, no charge for me its just good, clean (occasionaly), fun.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Denver CO
Also in case you dont know (I figure you probably do) theres a deal called Truckfest up at Bandimere the weekend after the milehigh nationals where you can drag your truck and also be able to get all kinds of toys for it, they usually get a dyno up there too for the diesels. This year its august 2 if I remember properly.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,138
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
I work on anything and everything, from the time I was able to walk my grandad put in his shop and started teachin me how fix cars. He put 8 kids through college doin that. I used to work for Wagner Equipment (CAT) out of I-70. And Im just enough of motorhead that I dont care about nessasarily workin for money I simply like fixin stuff, seeing what more I can do to it. I just sold one of my trucks to a video game company based on what it looked like and what it could do. If you ever need any help let me know Ill be glad to help you, no charge for me its just good, clean (occasionaly), fun.
yea bandimere is a good time!
out there twice a week when my Stang is running... since i am still in highschool, i can run in the highschool friday night classes, but i perfer running in Pro ET and the trophy classes...
I am looking forward to racing my truck for the first few races (car will not be ready)
what type of times should i expect? Im thinking high 16s... i mean i can get my speedometer reading 85 by the time i hit the end of off ramps about a quarter mile long, but i really dont know if thats acuurate enough...
my mustang stock ran 16.5s at 88 mph... pretty sad, but the air is the excuse...
went 12.91 best pass last season
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 225
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i have wrestled with my parking brake way too much over the last couple months. i have learned that you can have a new pedal assembly, cables, drums, shoes, adjusters, etc... and still have a parking brake that doesn't work at all.
if you rule out the adjusters, and can't fix it by simply tightening your rears, then take a look at the pin and bushing where the e-brake mechanism actually pushes your shoes out.
if that bushing is gone and the pinhole is three times the intended size, your parking brake will not work matter what.
if you rule out the adjusters, and can't fix it by simply tightening your rears, then take a look at the pin and bushing where the e-brake mechanism actually pushes your shoes out.
if that bushing is gone and the pinhole is three times the intended size, your parking brake will not work matter what.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
You can adjust the rear brakes without taking the tires and drums off. On the backing plate there is a rubber plug. Remove the plug and with a flat blade screw driver rotate the star wheel upward. You should have the rear of the truck jacked up and in neutral (block the front wheels PLEASE!) and rotate the tires until you feel the brake shoes dragging. Then just for good measure so hit the brakes once and recheck the drag. Adjust as needed. To back off the adjustment you need to go in with a wire or small screw driver and push back the self adjusting lever to allow the star wheel to go in reverse.
From the pictures of the cables one side is worse than the other. Perhaps even the cable is unhooked. The cable on the top. I think it goes to the passenger side is pulled much farther than the other.
From the pictures of the cables one side is worse than the other. Perhaps even the cable is unhooked. The cable on the top. I think it goes to the passenger side is pulled much farther than the other.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: Denver CO
There is another old trick (doesnt always work depending on your adjusters condition) Drive the truck in reverse FAST and all at once mash the brakes trying to lock them. This will usually operate the adjusters assumingthey are not too gummed up with crap and turn. Do this everal times and it will usually adjust to where its supposed to be. It has to do with the majority of the load on the braking being transfered to the rear and the adjuster trying to compensate.
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