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I want to know the good to bad and the ugly about por-15. I want to know everything before I buy this stuff. I am planning on using it on the frame of my truck. Tell me how good this stuff is, where you used it, how long has it been there, everything. Thanks!
We met the guy that turned us on to POR15 at the Turkey Rod Run in Daytona last Thanksgiving. Not a distributor but a user. He has a 41 Ford like the one we're restoring so he was a wealth of info & help. He did the frame, under the cab and inside the fenders with the stuff about 4-5 years ago and said it's the best stuff he's ever used. No rock chips under the fender, on the frame or anywhere else that he could see.
I've already sprayed our entire frame and even with all the beating, banging and stuff hubby's been doing to get the rear and front ends back on, there were only a few highly abused areas that needed touchup. We're convinced that this is tuff stuff. We used a paper paint funnel to pour into the sprayer can and a couple days later, Steve showed me the funnel and it was pretty cool - you could crush it, fold heavy creases in it, do pretty much anything you want to it and it don't crack or even peel off.
We're painting everything under the truck with either this or with another product of theirs called Metal Mask. That's cool stuff too. It's a bare metal looking paint. Also going to paint the running boards, under the fenders, under the cab, under the bed and the floor & firewall inside the cab. Haven't decided on the bed itself.
By the way - there's a picture of the before/after frame in the "47 and older" boards - post on 5/16/01 "Just bought a 1940", all the way at the bottom of that post.
Just did the back half of my frame with it and now getting ready to do the front half and under the bed. I used the standard black Por15 and <1qt was enough to cover 1/2 of the frame. It looks like black porcelin, nice and shinny even when applied with a brush.
I sand blasted the frame and removed all paint and most all the visable rust, cleaned with acetone, dried with hair dryer, then applied with a 2" brush and a 1/2" brush. I did two very thin coats and it came out near perfect.
I re-installed the rear end and springs and hit it several times which did scrach it off at some spots, but you've got to expect that.
I used it before and made the mistake of letting it puddle up at one spot which caused it to bubble and feel like a sponge. Don't apply it thick and don't let it puddle up.
I vote yes, it's not the cheapest stuff around but after you take the time to strip a frame, you want the best stuff on it.
Take the time to read and understand the direction, clean dry surface, 2 thin coats.
I e-mailed thier tech support the other day and the guy wrote back saying as long as there is no grease, dirt or oil, there is no need to sandblast. So I asked about a highspeed wirebrush and he said that the brush could be used, but do not take all the rust off. That kind of surprised me. but I suppose that helps por15 bond to the frame, or is there another reason. That's why I want to know how other people have used it and how it stood up after application. I do beleive I am going to buy some, I just want to prepare the frame the right way first. Thanks for the responses! Your help is much appreciated!
I live close by the west coast distributor for Por15, and he said NOT to use a power wire brush. He said it tends to close up the pors of the steel and makes it harder for the Por15 to stick. He said that Por15 loves rust and a simple hand brushing to get rid of the flaking rust is best.
I'm sandblasting to remove any paint, dirt and rust. It also gives it a smoother look.
I don't know if removing all the rust with a sandblaster would do more harm then good, but if it sticks to rust it should stick to clean steel as well.
Here's a site I found that might give you more info about rust prep. I've seen several guys there talk about Por15.
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