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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 08:16 AM
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Options to wire coil & ignition module?

I own a 47 Ford truck with a late 70's/early 80's 351W engine, carbureted with electronic module, etc. and a Ford tilt-steering column from what I think is a late 70's to early 80's truck. The positive red lead from the coil, the red lead from the electronic module, and the positive lead for the choke were wired together and connected to a black wire coming from a rectangular block attached to the steering column. The engine would start and run fine but the black wire was getting hot when ignition was on. I disconnected each wire individually and found the black wire did not get hot when the coil wire was disconnected. I connected the coil wire to one of two gray hot leads (ignition on) coming from the steering column block. The truck was hard to get to started but finally fired as I released the key from the "start" to "run" position. However, it ran with a "miss". Later, it would not start at all. I believe I've connected the coil lead to a wire that does not provide enough current when key is in "start" position. Any suggestions how to wire the ignition module and coil for truck to run properly? The coil red wire appears to have a ballast resister built-in. Sorry for long post and thanks in advance for replies.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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I think with your rewire job that you burnt your electronic module.Get a new one then put the wires back but this time leave the choke wire off.Start the engine manually work the choke then prop. open.Now check black wire for temp.If it stays cool you can run choke wire to S term. of alt. if you have one our your going to run off another circuit.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 12:21 PM
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How do you want to re-wire? Install switches in the dash? The problem is I don't know what steering column you have, and which wire does what on the steering column switch. The coil + wire should have a ballast resistor, but the module wire should not. So in other words, the hot wire should run from the switch to the ballast resistor, and then the coil, and the module should be hooked to the incoming side of the resistor so it gets a full 12 volts from the switch.
 
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