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how to reverse wheels?

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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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how to reverse wheels?

I've been wondering if its wize to do this on my own...I've read several articles on it, however, not sure due to my ability at welding is not spectacular...anyone done this before? if so, How to and what was your experience
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 09:08 AM
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If you're not sure of your welding ability I would strongly suggest not doing it. It will be something that will nag you every time take the truck out on the road, especially if you have the family in the truck.

That being said, here's a pretty good link to building wide wheels, which I think could be applied to your question:

Widening Steel Wheels - FordMuscle.com
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by low54
I've been wondering if its wize to do this on my own...I've read several articles on it, however, not sure due to my ability at welding is not spectacular...anyone done this before? if so, How to and what was your experience
I have never done it but I have considered it several times only to end up obtaing something that was suitable for my needs.

There are some older wheels that have the centers riveted in that looked as though they might ne easier to take a part. the majority of steel wheels are welded. In which case you would have to spend a lot of time carefully cutting the welds with a grinder and cut-off discs. When you set the center back in to be welded the wleel needs to secured to a good flat surface and the center also fastensd in with a very accurate spacer off of the flat surface so that it sits in the same plane as the wheel does. It it doesn't then your wheel is going to wobble. Once you are satisfied that everything is just right tack it in by spotting welds at the ends of where your welds will be. STOP THERE, take the wheel off the jig and put it on a hub abd spin it to check it out. If it checks out true then spot in between you first spots so the center will be better secured and better resist warping and moving from heat. When you finish one weld the move to the weld 180 degrees from it and do it. I would then let the wheel naturally cool for enough time that you can handle the welds with you bare hands. Then I would do the two remaining welds. Don't get anxoius and water cool the welds.

If I were you I would find an extra wheel or two to practice on. I would also recommend using a MIG machine. When you can do good job on a practice wheel then move on to your good wheels. Remember, you can't do too good a job of cleaning and grinding the metal. It's als good to remember that where you remove the old weld is going to be exposed to the outside of the finished wheel so you are goint to want it to look as if the weld was never there. After rough grinding I would use a flapper disc to clean it up. If you are having these wheels chromed you really have to do a good job here.

This may on the surface seem to be a rather easy job but you will find it the be a lot more labor intensive and time consuming that it first appears to be. (Isn't everything???) However, if you have your heart set on doing it I say go for it. Even though others my not appreciate what the effort and reward was, you will. So far as I am concerned it is you that you are trying to please. Appreciation by others is just a bonus. Good luck with your project if you decide to do it.

Later Man...

 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 09:30 AM
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wow that is a great article, The only issue I would have is to build a "JiG," to true up the wheel as stated...I thought there was alot more welding to it...the next question is will the 53 -56 hubcaps fit on newer 5x5 1/2 centers?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 09:33 AM
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I just checked out the link Bob sent you. there is a lot of good stuff in there. Their set up jig using the old hub and spindle and dial indicator is also a good way to go if you have the stuff to do it with. he is also right about welding skills which is why I suggested practice. They also used a sandblaster which I did not mention but it would be preferred.

Later Guys...
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 09:37 AM
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Well I'm going to give it a shot with some practice wheels like you had mentioned, I've got alot of 5x51/2 centers...I'll go to the local yard an see if I can pick up some 15x8 Cheby wheels...hahahaha! would that be considered "DARKSIDING," !!!!LOL
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 10:25 AM
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You could use your truck as a jig. Pull it into the garage, raise up one front wheel, make sure you support your truck with a jack stand, take the wheel off and go to it. It may not be as nice as the one in the article but it'll work. You just have to make sure there isn't any slop in the spindle of the truck, leave one wheel on the ground to hold the other front spindle in position.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 10:32 AM
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I'll try that...WOW kinda exciting to try something new...and only a few bucks...my wife will be happy...
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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low54,

That is a great article, I've been reading it and rereading it for several years now. I have a set of those deep dish Chevy wheels out back also...dang its tempting

Bobby
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 11:03 AM
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Bobby, just to be sure, what kind of chevy wheels do you have so I can get the right one's, the article seemed specific with mid 70's -80's...right?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 11:09 AM
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The ones in the article are the standard GM truck rally wheel. I did notice that they are the 5 hole wheel. Most of the GM trucks had a 6 hole bolt pattern. I've typically seen the 6 holes wheels in the 8" wide version. I don't think it matter too much.

I think the main thing to keep in mind is the inside diameter. You would want to make sure that whatever wheel you choose for the rim portion has the same inside diameter as the center section of the wheel you are using for the bolt pattern.

Bobby
 
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