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My dad had one in his 85 F250. That animal didn't care whether it was towing an excavator on a trailer, or carrying a carton of eggs in the bed. It got 10mpg, and that was that.
Wow,what a response! Thank you all. When I drove it home before any mods except the exhaust, it got 11mpg.That was with the cruise set at 75mph.Man,that thing didn't even notice our hills(Montana).Much better than my old 92 5.0. I realize this thing will never be a Prius, but I'm shooting for mid teens.I plan to fab a cold air box around the filter, it seems to me the larger filter area would be better on a 460. According to the manuals I have the air pump system seems totally seperate from the engine electronics,yes/no? It sure would be much easier to put on headers without having to deal with that. Thanks again.
Most headers will not work with the air pump if the tubes from the smog system hook up to the manifolds. The shorty headers I put on my 351 did not have provisions for the smog pump tubes, so I deleted the system. Pull all of the tubes, valves, and inlet stuff. Then plug the vacuum line that hooks up to the valves. Gut the pump and plug the intake and output holes. After you do those things you are good to go. If your smog tubes are not plumbed to the exhaust manifolds, leave the system alone. It is not going to hurt performance and there is no reason to go to the trouble of getting rid of it if you do not have to.
Ardwrkn, you're probably right,but I can dream.Besides it seems to take forever to get anywhere out here ay 65.By the way they wimped out and set the limit at 75 to keep the federal highway funds coming.At least anything up to 10 over only cost 20 bucks and won't go on your record.I did set the cruise on my car at 100mph once just to say I had(before speed limits of course). Pinto
Elder user, Thanks,that should help.Mine is plumbed into the back of the ex. manifolds and also back to the cat. If I decide to remove it at least it will make it easier to change plugs without swearing to much.By the way, on mine it looks like you could just put on a shorter belt and bypass the pump.Might be a good way to test the theory? Pinto
A lot of people use the belt bypass method. I'm not sold on it for two reasons. The first being I tried it with the belt size suggested on this site and once the belt stretched it would hop off when I started the truck. The second is some of the guys that have done it get a belt that is really tight and just stretch it over the pulleys, not letting the tensioner do its work. If you want to give it a shot leave the pump on and keep a stock size belt in the truck in case you have problems. It seems like it works for a lot of people, so I won't say don't do it.
Having all of the clutter out of the engine compartment is nice, that is where deleting the smog system is nice. You won't gain any power, but having more room is nice.
That animal didn't care whether it was towing an excavator on a trailer, or carrying a carton of eggs in the bed. It got 10mpg, and that was that.
No s**t, I have a 3/4 ton GMC Suburban with a 454 in it and it gets 10 mpg towing anything or nothing. I could tow my house over Vail pass or drive it empty and get the exact same mileage. When I first bought it my wife loved the power and once got 160 miles on 40 gallons (4 mpg if you do the math.) She doesn't do that anymore.
there is no around town out here. i live in a town of about 70 people, and go to school in a town with about 120 or 130. my whole school, 7-12 has about 70 students with 5 towns coming in. i drive 12 miles of highway to school, and 12 miles back. flatland, strait roads, have street tires, cab extender, and a 5 speed. turn about 2400 RPMs at what i reckon is between 65 and 70 mph (speedo doesnt work right, says 85 but i KNOW its wrong), and still only under 9. unless the speedo being off if is messing with the odometer, which would make my numbers go UP because its reading faster than im actually going...
If the speedo being off is being caused by the signal to the speedometer (cable or electronic depending on what you have), and not the speedometer itself, that would screw-up odometer readings. But if the speedo reads fast the odometer should be racking up more miles than you are really traveling, therefore making your mileage look better.
Have you pulled the codes? You shouldn't be getting that bad of mileage if everything is working properly you should not be getting 8.7 mpg highway.
i have not pulled the codes. i dont even know how, even IF i have the stuff to do it. besides, the only light on the dash is for my rear ABS. occasionally, if i run really low rpms, like just above idle for more than 10 or 15 min, the check engine light comes on, but it shuts off again as soon as im on the highway.
Many of the less important codes will not trigger the CEL. Any time you get a CEL, its a good idea to investigate, I figured that out the hard way. You can pull the codes without any special tools. Below is a link on how to do it.
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