vacuum question on carb hookup
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 328
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From: northwest,WA
rebuilt my carb choke stove pipe but looks like either 1) its not able to pick up enough heat or 2) the thermostat spring isnt working good any more.
for 9 bucks I can fix the carb choke to a manual pull thingy question is before I go to the hardest part of routing a pull cable thru the firewall. Is there anything else easy I can check on the choke -any easy test to see if the spring is working correctly. Or should I just run some more copper pipe - not in the original area as pictured but I figure if I Loop a hunk around the exhaust manifolds ...some heat will get into the air that way.
I did check the other end of the copper pipe for proper vacuum and its jsut fine so there is air moving past the spring. just ...not warm air I guess.
Is there anything else I need to check, should I run extra copper around the exhaust to transfer more heat? Should I just flip it to a pull cable?
for 9 bucks I can fix the carb choke to a manual pull thingy question is before I go to the hardest part of routing a pull cable thru the firewall. Is there anything else easy I can check on the choke -any easy test to see if the spring is working correctly. Or should I just run some more copper pipe - not in the original area as pictured but I figure if I Loop a hunk around the exhaust manifolds ...some heat will get into the air that way.
I did check the other end of the copper pipe for proper vacuum and its jsut fine so there is air moving past the spring. just ...not warm air I guess.
Is there anything else I need to check, should I run extra copper around the exhaust to transfer more heat? Should I just flip it to a pull cable?
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: MD
Is the spring rusted? If it looks good, it's most likely functional. Also, test the choke wire. It should show approximately 7 volts with the engine running and the wire connected to the choke thermostat housing.
The choke pulloff needs to be able to hold vacuum. If it doesn't, replace it.
Are you sure you have adjusted the choke correctly?
The choke pulloff needs to be able to hold vacuum. If it doesn't, replace it.
Are you sure you have adjusted the choke correctly?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: northwest,WA
no electric assist to no voltage. the spring is ..old but not rusted. The choke pulloff to hold a vacuum where is that and what is it holding (assume its just a diaphragm)? How would I go about testing that part? I do have a 10bar vacuum on the brass fitting that mean its working correct?
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Hmmm... could be something wrong somewhere.
I just installed the universal kit on my truck. Ran it to cylinder #5 header pipe and set the choke cap to notch "1". Seems to be working fine at the moment. I still have open headers and cannot really run the truck for long, but just idling it in the driveway the choke is operating.
Josh
I just installed the universal kit on my truck. Ran it to cylinder #5 header pipe and set the choke cap to notch "1". Seems to be working fine at the moment. I still have open headers and cannot really run the truck for long, but just idling it in the driveway the choke is operating.
Josh
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,956
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From: MD
no electric assist to no voltage. the spring is ..old but not rusted. The choke pulloff to hold a vacuum where is that and what is it holding (assume its just a diaphragm)? How would I go about testing that part? I do have a 10bar vacuum on the brass fitting that mean its working correct?
The choke pulloff is indeed only a diaphragm. It needs to be able to hold it open with a vacuum source (to pull the choke butterfly to a preset clearance) when starting it.
This thread should answer a lot of questions.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6422219
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: northwest,WA
What do you mean by "no electric to no voltage"?
The choke pulloff is indeed only a diaphragm. It needs to be able to hold it open with a vacuum source (to pull the choke butterfly to a preset clearance) when starting it.
This thread should answer a lot of questions.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6422219
The choke pulloff is indeed only a diaphragm. It needs to be able to hold it open with a vacuum source (to pull the choke butterfly to a preset clearance) when starting it.
This thread should answer a lot of questions.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6422219
5. Now the important part. Look down at the fast idle linkage, underneath the choke cap on the passenger side of the carb. There is a small cam above the throttle shaft. You will see a small V notched onto the second step of the cam, and you will see a long screw with its tip touching the surface of the cam. The tip of this screw must be aligned perfectly with this V. This is the measurement Ford uses to tell you that you've set the fast idle index properly. If it is not aligned with the V, there is a small hex screw on the plastic fast idle arm in the linkage. You turn this to adjust the index. Each time you adjust this screw, you must start this procedure over and check for alignment.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,956
Likes: 10
From: MD
What type of choke do you have? The electric-assist or the heater hose? Since you're in WA, it should have the electric assist. Or did the truck came from down south like in the desert? Do you know its DSO?
You're getting it. I didn't get it at first, but after some head-scratching, I finally figured it out. Just spend some time with the instructions and your carburetor, you'll get it. Then you wonder how more simple it could have gotten.
You're correct, it needs to be properly set-up in order to get the whole system working. The choke is a part of a carburetor tuning. It isn't set properly, so that's why you see the choke not opening fully after the engine is toasty.
No, it's not inside the housing. It's that long screw with a hex head underneath the choke housing. Near the opposite end of that screw, you will see a cam. This end of hex-head screw needs to be aligned perfectly with the "V" mark. This is called setting the fast idle. Before you do this, adjust the pulloff clearance first because the fast idle step is the second step.
You're getting it. I didn't get it at first, but after some head-scratching, I finally figured it out. Just spend some time with the instructions and your carburetor, you'll get it. Then you wonder how more simple it could have gotten.
You're correct, it needs to be properly set-up in order to get the whole system working. The choke is a part of a carburetor tuning. It isn't set properly, so that's why you see the choke not opening fully after the engine is toasty.
No, it's not inside the housing. It's that long screw with a hex head underneath the choke housing. Near the opposite end of that screw, you will see a cam. This end of hex-head screw needs to be aligned perfectly with the "V" mark. This is called setting the fast idle. Before you do this, adjust the pulloff clearance first because the fast idle step is the second step.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 134
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From: Nor Cal
Do you have a link on this kit? Can it be used with headers? If not, does anyone have a solution for running the stove with headers?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 134
Likes: 1
From: Nor Cal