Tell me about it, but you misunderstood, I haven't replaced the slave cylinder, just the clutch set,...disc, pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bearing. Maybe i said it wrong earlier...but anyways..i was reading that a bad primary seal in the master cylinder would cause this problem, keep the clutch from engaging so after it quits raining ..again, I'll take a look at that. It also mentioned as do you about the line being blocked. It's not crimped, but as I said a few posts ago this is my first time with a hydraulic clutch. I've changed plenty of the manual types with never a problem.
I knoe I'll get it eventually, but the bad master cylinder makes sense, maybe thats why it was slipping to begin with.

 

Yes it is the same problem. If you open the bleed screw that will release any fluid pressure in the system and so eliminate the hydraulic system or confirm that it is the problem.
The rubber flexi hoses on brake systems can restrict flow back to the master cylinder so may be a possibility in your case, however opening the bleed screw would cover that as well.

 

Ok..as much as I've studied on it I was wondering about seals too...When I first put the new clutch in and was bleeding the system, I ran enough fluid thru to completly flush out the old. It was pathetic looking, still have it in a jar! Just hope i don't have to still replace the slave cylinder too...wish it would quit raining...
If this don't work I can always give the truck to BH for a playhouse...she loves crawling up under the seat to hide!

 

Could clarify one thing for me. Does your truck have the internal slave cylinder (concentric) or does it have the external one operating on a clutch throwout lever coming out through a slot in the bellhousing?

 

Its internal, fits over the input shaft on the tranny, and you have to remove the bellhousing to replace it. It seems to be working ok. I manually pushed it in as far as it would go with the new release bearing before re-installing the tranny. It releases the clutch fine, just on the engage part where it goes haywire. The release bearing, according to the papers, is a new, two piece design. Thats why I figured maybe it was that being the problem but I think it will move back far enough when the pedal is released, just something keeping it from doing so.

 

OK, things would have been so much easier if it had been external. Surely the only thing that could keep it from moving back is fluid pressure.
Hope it stops raining soon and you get some good news on it, you deserve it.

 

Well,...put in the new master cylinder, bled till I was getting no bubbles with a more firm pedal, cranked her up and didn't even have to mash the pedal in to put it in gear....the only pieces left to replace are the slave cylinder and the line. I can blow thru the line and there are no binds or holes in it. But I wonder about the end that goes into the master cylinder. It looks something like an air hose coupling, but doesnt seem to release that way. Had to take the retaining pin out of the mc and they give ya a new pin with the new mc so I wonder what the purpose of that end piece is. A new line (thru a dealership) is $65 with what they say is a quick dis-connect.
But it is actually worse with each new item I've installed..weird..

 

The coupling you have sounds like the type that you need a tool to disconnect it. Only a few $ from most stores. You push it into the coupling and it releases the fingers holding the thing together.
This is a real mystery. So some questions.
When you start the engine is the noise it makes when starting any different from before?
With engine at idle are there any different noises from before when in neutral?
With engine running is the noise any different between neutral and in gear trying to move?

 

Heh, don't need no special tools, cept snap ring pliars. It's a check valve apparently. according to Ford Parts. But they say it's rare for one to tear up. I took the back spring out and sprayed brake cleaner thru it.Blew out some junk and was easier to blow thru. The guy at the Ford place says it wasn't bled good enough, I did it per his directions with the same results.
As for noises...none different except the whiring noise doesn't come from the tranny area with the new clutch in it.
No noise with the clutch in or out, no nothing that sounds different.
The only thing left now is the slave cylinder....I tried to wipe the bellhousing out before this last reinstall, so I should be able to see if there is an inside leak anywhere.

 

A check valve? Why on earth would you need a check valve on a clutch circuit? That is a new one on me, never came across that before. However i wonder could that be stopping fluid returning to the master cylinder and so holding the pressure plate off the friction disc. In any case a leaking slave cylinder is not the problem. If it was leaking then you would have opposite, you would not be able to disengage the clutch.
Is there a plate you can take off to look into the bellhousing? If so you may be able to see if the release bearing is tight up against the pressure plate fingers.
I wonder if it would be worth posting this problem on the Ranger page in case someone there has come across it?
I can post a quick question on it or you can do it yourself, what do you think?

 

Another thought. The only reason I can think of for a check valve in the system is to slow the return of fluid to the master cylinder and so giving smoother clutch engagement.
Would it be possible for you to take the check valve apart again and gut out all the internals and refit it again without it leaking, and then try the clutch. Just in case it is allowing fluid to flow to the clutch but not to return.

 

That was part of my thinking, but can't tear into it enough. Even the Ford parts guy was saying it showed on his computer to use a similar length of line (without the valve) to replace as an option, but Ford doesn't carry such a piece. But after cleaning it out it allowed more air easier both directions.
He also said that even with a bleeder valve that that type of system was a booger to completely bleed. I knew air could keep it from dis-engaging properly but they say it messes it up both ways.
I'm also wondering about something else. When I bought the new clutch set, there was a paper with it stating that the release bearing is a new design, thats why I thought it might be the problem. If you buy a new slave cylinder a new release bearing comes with it. You can get it without the bearing at some places but you actually pay more! Anyways if they changed the release bearing I wonder if they made changes to the slave cylinder too?
The idea for the Ranger threads is good..I'll get to it when I get back.
Oh, no inspection plate either, but I can tear it apart in a couple of hours now!

 

There is no way that air in the system will allow the slave cylinder to stay extended. So you can rule that out.
Because the clutch is now worse with the new release bearing, it may just be that the concentric cylinder is too long with the new bearings. It is the only thing you haven`t replaced. May be worth the effort and expense.

 

Unfortunately you are probably right...least all the major components I'm replacing come with a lifetime warranty. Now if the boss would just call...but I ain't give up yet.

 

Had to go fishing and think this thru! If there is pressure extending the slave drive, and that pressure is released, then the drive will return back as far as it has room. Which should be equal to the amount of fluid being added from the master cylinder. If I press the pedal to the floor, then open the bleeder screw, the slave drive should return just as far as it was designed to go, it doesn't. If it did I would think it would at least grab just enough to move the truck as it did the last time, which it now refuses to do. I can get no more air to come out no matter which way I bleed it. Can't do anything else till I get some more work and money...BH won't give me none...greedy critter..