When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
also...lockouts are brand new and weel bearing were re-packed when converting from the auto to manual hubs, also checked the outer spindle buy jacking up drivers side, locking hub, putting vise crips on axle and trying to spin tire...didnt move so the outer spindle splines arent stripped
I would jack up the front. Turn the wheels full lock and turn the drive shaft. If you still think the noise is in the CS then pull the front spindles. Then pull the DS shaft and the outer PS shaft. Pull the drive shaft. Then unbolt the CS from the beam. Then we will all know. RB
ok so i got the front end in the air locked the hubs, spun the driveshaft,didnt here any grinding....but i noticed that the yoke it the front diff seemed abit loose i could move it up down side to side and so on. not much play but maybe enough to cause a problem? i check all the other yokes on the rear diff ad transfercase and they all seemed tight
ps whatch the correct way to check u-joint? just try to move it around in all directions to see if its tight?
ok so i got the front end in the air locked the hubs, spun the driveshaft,didnt here any grinding....but i noticed that the yoke it the front diff seemed abit loose i could move it up down side to side and so on. not much play but maybe enough to cause a problem? i check all the other yokes on the rear diff ad transfercase and they all seemed tight
ps whatch the correct way to check u-joint? just try to move it around in all directions to see if its tight?
If I am not correct, someone feel free to jump in right away, and give me 40 lashes with a wet noodle...
If you can move your front yoke around like that, I think there is definitely something wrong in that pumpkin, and you will need to replace the bearings, and seals, and reset to the correct preload with shims, at the absolute minimum. I would guess that you will need to replace the ring and pinion, too, since it has been grinding noticably.
As far as checking U-Joints goes, they should be solid, no play at all when you are twisting the shaft by hand, and there shouldn't be any noticable play when you are on the ground watching them while someone else moves the gear selector from forward to reverse and back with the engine running. (Of course, stay out of the way of the wheels, you don't want to get run over if your helper has a spastic moment.)
Is it just the yoke, or is the pinion shaft wallowing around in the housing?
Re-torquing the yoke with a new collar (if it has one) is no big deal.
Pulling the diff apart to replace the bearing and re shim is quite a bit more involved.
well i think it might just be the yoke, but there is still something in the diff grinding in 4x4 under load, cause metal shavings, so i am hoping its the drivers side half axle(not held i with a c clip) is stripping out, gotta wait for good weather and a day off to actually pull and inspect the spindles and axles before i go diving into the diff. witch i dont wanna do on my daily driver
If the yoke is loose on the pinion it will try and "climb" into the ring gear.
My rear pinion yoke came loose and made horrible noises on decelleration.
The damage was done, but once I tightened it back up and changed the gear oil I drove it for another 15 years before it finally let go.