When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
<!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->
<!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_start --><!-- END TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_start -->ok so when my problem started i thought it was the auto lockin hubs. pulled apart and cleaned and re-packed the hub, it was still grinding. so i converted to warn manual lockin hubs and low and behold it still grinds in 4x4, so i am thinking front diff. problem...the oil level was low (only had about 1/2 quart) so i sucked it out and put in about 2 quarts of royal purple 75w90, shifted into 4x4 and into 4x4 low smoother than it ever has, started driving it and thats when my nightmare began! truck is a 97 f250 supercab 3/4 ton (still old body style like 96) the front diff.is eather dana 30, 44, or 50? any ideas on how to fix this? it is not like the rear diff with a cover, looks like the whole diff and axle assembly needs to be removed to separate? so i have no idea whats going on in there!
Depending on if you have twin traction beam it should look like this. Its a pic from my 86 dana 44 Quite the job to pull the beams... I know there are bearings under the spindle for the 4x4 axil....?? u have 5 front ujoints... just my 2cents maybe someone knows better here, i know someone does!
well the grinding is just in 4x4 any time the truck is moving, really bad wile turning, with the auto hubs it would grind in 2 weel drive to untill i put it i reveres and drove a wee bit.
also when driver side was jacked up (to do the hubs and seat the bearings) when hub was locked and spining the tire, herd no grinding noise. does this help narrow it down?
not really any unusual noises, but it turns somewhere betwee 1/4 and 1/2 turn, but i noticed with the drivers side jacked up and the hubs unlocked the 1/2 shaft didnt spin when turning the driveshaft, but on the ground and turing the drivshaft they both spun fine, is this because the front diff doesnt have limmited slip or posi lock? or could my problem be with the half shaft into the front diff.?
not really any unusual noises, but it turns somewhere betwee 1/4 and 1/2 turn, but i noticed with the drivers side jacked up and the hubs unlocked the 1/2 shaft didnt spin when turning the driveshaft, but on the ground and turing the drivshaft they both spun fine, is this because the front diff doesnt have limmited slip or posi lock? or could my problem be with the half shaft into the front diff.?
I think I would be looking at the transfer case output shaft, too. Could be a bearing on the output shaft that only grinds under load.
Last edited by Beastly; Mar 10, 2009 at 01:35 PM.
Reason: Boy, I am all over the map today. Sorry.
Depending on if you have twin traction beam it should look like this. Its a pic from my 86 dana 44 Quite the job to pull the beams... I know there are bearings under the spindle for the 4x4 axil....?? u have 5 front ujoints... just my 2cents maybe someone knows better here, i know someone does!
I had the bearings (needle type) go bad under(inside) my spindle. Everytime I put it in 4wd, they would grind, the faster I'd go, the louder it got. They give the front shafts support as they go through the spindle.
not really any unusual noises, but it turns somewhere betwee 1/4 and 1/2 turn, but i noticed with the drivers side jacked up and the hubs unlocked the 1/2 shaft didnt spin when turning the driveshaft, but on the ground and turing the drivshaft they both spun fine, is this because the front diff doesnt have limmited slip or posi lock? or could my problem be with the half shaft into the front diff.?
Was the other side spinning? One or the other should. RB
yea there was always atleast one spinning, but if it is say the 1/2 shaft, would i have to remove the whole front diff.to get at the c clip? is there even a c clip holding the axles in on the front diffs? but at this point it amost seems like i have to remove the diff to find out whats going wrong anyways?
yea there was always atleast one spinning, but if it is say the 1/2 shaft, would i have to remove the whole front diff.to get at the c clip? is there even a c clip holding the axles in on the front diffs? but at this point it amost seems like i have to remove the diff to find out whats going wrong anyways?
Unless it was run totally dry, I doubt it's your center section. I would eliminate all other possibilities first. The DS shaft can be pulled out once the spindle is removed. The PS has a clip. I would check your U joints, spindle bearings, and lockouts, good before you decide to remove the CS. RB
well for ****s and giggles, i went out and sucked the fluid out of the front diff, witch is 2 weeks old mind you (origanally had a 1/2 quart) and the last half quart or so, had what i didnt wanna see...shinny silver swirls in the fluid....reminded me of the milk after eating a bowl of cinnamon toast crunch!
also...lockouts are brand new and weel bearing were re-packed when converting from the auto to manual hubs, also checked the outer spindle buy jacking up drivers side, locking hub, putting vise crips on axle and trying to spin tire...didnt move so the outer spindle splines arent stripped
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.