Help-replaced all parts and no brakes
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Help-replaced all parts and no brakes
I just changed shoes, wheel cylinders, MC and booster and bled 2 quarts through the system and reset prop. valve. The brakes suck, the pedal goes almost to the floor before the car will stop. It seems to pump up fine with truck off, but when I start it the pedal goes towards floor (I am told this is proper operation for a vac. booster system). Good vacuum to booster.
On my 72, you get close to the brake pedal and it will send you through the windshield. This is how I want the brakes to work, what have I done wrong or not done at all. If I put enough pressure on the pedal I can lock the wheels but I have to stand on the pedal to do that.
On my 72, you get close to the brake pedal and it will send you through the windshield. This is how I want the brakes to work, what have I done wrong or not done at all. If I put enough pressure on the pedal I can lock the wheels but I have to stand on the pedal to do that.
Post Fiend
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What truck is it? Anyway it sounds a classic case of air in the system. It is not the booster.
I take it you have the rear brakes fully adjusted up?
I take it you have the rear brakes fully adjusted up?
Last edited by Lazy K; Mar 9, 2009 at 01:16 PM. Reason: new info
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Not a truck, 67 galaxie. I was using my 72 f100 as a reference point for how the brakes should work. On my truck the brakes will put you in the windshield if you barely touch them. I was expecting the galaxie to do the same, basically the same brake system.
I need to recheck the shoe adjustment front and back. I thought I had manually adjusted them out until I could hear the shoe drag just a little, harder on the rear since they don't spin free like the front.
I need to recheck the shoe adjustment front and back. I thought I had manually adjusted them out until I could hear the shoe drag just a little, harder on the rear since they don't spin free like the front.
Post Fiend
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When adjusting drums with new hardware you have to be aware that uncentered shoes can bluff you when adjusting them. I would usually adjust the shoes out until they start to rub then hit the drum aroung the edge (not too hard) and then adjust a bit more then hit again. I would keep doing this until the drum is hard to turn and hitting it makes no difference. Then back the adjuster off while turning the drum untill there is just a slight drag.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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From: So. California
If the car is a '67 Galaxie, then it likely has drum brakes on all four wheels.
I doubt there's air in the system. The pedal would give a lot of space, even if the car were off and no vac assist were present, if air in the lines.
It sounds to me like an example of cumulative maladjustment. The OP has done something wrong... x4.
I'd suggest he toy with the emergency brake, with the rear wheels off the ground. That will activate the shoes with the hydraulic system out of the picture.
It's an adjustment...
OR
perhaps he has a "mis-fit" between shoes and drums. Perhaps even the WRONG HARDWARE.
Is he SURE he has the right shoes in there?
I doubt there's air in the system. The pedal would give a lot of space, even if the car were off and no vac assist were present, if air in the lines.
It sounds to me like an example of cumulative maladjustment. The OP has done something wrong... x4.
I'd suggest he toy with the emergency brake, with the rear wheels off the ground. That will activate the shoes with the hydraulic system out of the picture.
It's an adjustment...
OR
perhaps he has a "mis-fit" between shoes and drums. Perhaps even the WRONG HARDWARE.
Is he SURE he has the right shoes in there?
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The story continues. I believe I have the correct shoes, 11x2 1/4 in rear and 11x2 1/2 fronts. I replaced the springs this weekend and did discover that whoever did the last brake job reveresed the pri/sec shoe springs on the rear. But, I still have the same problem. I called a mechanic friend who said I may have air in the prop valve, to pump up the brakes and hold them while someone else taps on the prop valve to loosen the air, then bleed. I tried all that and still have crappy brakes. I am breaking down and taking it to a brake shop and see if they can vacuum bleed the system or provide another solution. I have done a dozen brake jobs and never ran into this much trouble.
I did readjust the shoes, using the hammer on the drum trick.
I did readjust the shoes, using the hammer on the drum trick.
Post Fiend
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You seem to have covered all the bases. It brings you back to air in the system. This can be a real PITA at times. Hope everything works out for you.
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Does this make sense?
Took it to a local small auto shop. Told the guy what I had done, he asked to drive it. Came back and asked if I had turned the drums when I replaced the shoes. I said no. He said it was probably just that the shoes had not seated to the drums yet, drive it for 2 weeks then readjust the shoes. He said I had pedal and it wasn't air in the system. After 3 quarts of bleeding I was glad to hear it wasn't air.
Took it to a local small auto shop. Told the guy what I had done, he asked to drive it. Came back and asked if I had turned the drums when I replaced the shoes. I said no. He said it was probably just that the shoes had not seated to the drums yet, drive it for 2 weeks then readjust the shoes. He said I had pedal and it wasn't air in the system. After 3 quarts of bleeding I was glad to hear it wasn't air.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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He may mean that the drums are worn to a slightly larger diameter than the new shoes and the shoes need to wear to the same diameter. I suppose it is possible. However I have had cars in the past where driving them did improve the pedal, However that was the last bit of air working out of the system.
Give that a try and see.
Give that a try and see.