Ok...so...I cleared the codes and verified by checking them. I got a system pass on the first & second set.
I then took it the store to refresh my Pepsi(coughmixcough) supply. Light came on before I hit the end of my street. The drive was only a few minutes each way, but assumed that is long enough.
Check codes as soon as I got home and got 111(system pass) on the current condition codes and 332(egr valve opening not detected) in the continuous memory codes.
Now for those of you that are here as often as I, you will probably remember a few days back that I was getting a few egr codes(332 was one of them) while trying to solve a rough idle problem.
In any event, this is now the only code I have. Would this trip the CEL light? It did not trip the light before today. If not...then why is the CEL coming on and not leaving a code????

Since the engine light is being tripped would that not throw a code?
Again I checked a bunch of connections under the hood and only found one that seemed wet. I hit everything with die-electric grease...and even hit the wet one again with WD40 to try and displace the water in case that was the problem.
The wet connection in question was on a black unit under the EGR. I have checked vacuum lines and have found no leaks. I will mention though that I find no vacuum at the egr(but I am just checking with my finger, not a vacuum gauge).
I will also mention that the cleaner I used was Gunk engine degreaser, which is a solvent based cleaner. That is the first time that I have used this product...and likely the last time.
...
Eddiec1564....was your problem the result of cleaning your engine?
...
aguitarestv....as I stated I found no leaks, but perhaps there is a blockage...like I said, I find no vacuum at the egr.
I don't know if this is a common problem.
Also my engine is the 4.9 and have no coolant leaks
...
I've rambled on long enough...I will wait to see what y'all think

 

So again this morning light does not come on till engine temp gauge comes into the normal range....as soon as it gets warm.
The light today also stays on whereas yesterday it was on and off.
I checked codes again this morning after a half hour drive and got the same codes as I had last week,. They are 332,334 & 628..in the continuous memory codes. These codes never tripped the CEL light last week.
I did hit a bunch of connections yesterday with die-electric grease trying to solve a possible moisture problem, but again, now the light stays on. I will also mention that the cleaner I used is "Gunk" engine degreaser. Not sure if that has any bearing on the situation or if it was the water rinse.
I think I will try the KOER test today and see if that produces anything.
I've taken the day off again today to try and solve this problem...
Any thoughts ?????
Also, can someone recommend the best way to clean an egr?

 

You will only find vacuum AT the EGR when it is opened, and that is only when the vehicle is in motion. It likely isn't opening until the vehicle is warmed and you're driving it. If the heat controlled valve opens, allowing vacuum to EGR and it isn't opening, then likely the sensor then sends a CEL to tell you that it isn't opening.

You then stop truck, turn off, restart. The EGR valve is now closed, it's suppose to and the sensor confirms that so all is good. That is until it tires to open and it goes through the whole sequence again.

Sound about right?


You should be able to unbolt the EGR valve(two bolts?) and clean the area. The tapered valve part should move up/down easily(just a vacuum diaphram). Might have some soot/grit making it stick? This would cause idle issues if it sticks open. It's an open diaphram on the outside, so maybe something got washed into it? Making it not open?

Just some thoughts.

 

I am having trouble to loosen the sleeve to completely remove the egr.
I removed the white colored plastic piece which the electrical connector attaches to. It appears to move freely. I have noticed that the gasket where the egr attaches with the 2 bolts is shot.
could that affect the operation. It was pretty corroded and does not appear to have been penetrated by engine cleaning. However if this is triggering the egr code...im guessing the 332 then why did it not trigger the CEL last week, since I was getting those same codes then?
It doesn't seem logical.
Because it(CEL) is only triggered when the engine temp get up into normal range....I think that is narrowing it down, but am not sure what else starts working when the engine gets warm. Also, why was it intermittent yesterday and stays on today. In fact at one point yesterday it stayed off for at least 15 minutes..making me think that something had dried out and the problem was gone... Apparently not.
I'll keep digging......

 

That 628 is troubling. Have you looked into it?

 

That's a torque converter code....excess slippage if I remember correctly.
In any event......One headache at a time.

I'm going to redo all codes....I think I'm getting a new one.

 

I would think your TC would take priority over an EGR issue, but that's just me. Anyways, the EGR valve is very vacuum dependent. Are you positive those weak, plastic lines aren't cracked or split anywhere?

 

Not that i can see skaterbro...liines look good...feels good
Also... A CEL in my face is more annoying to me than a code that has been present forever...besides I have a spare.

Now...after messing with the egr. I can now trigger the CEL by revving the engine up a little. But to be honest I never revved the engine in park yesterday...so that may not be something new.
However, In the koeo test I am now getting a 327 code in addition to the others.
Also I ran a KOER test and got the same 332 code as well a 172
code....(172=HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side))
could this be related to my engine cleaning???
Also, I have to ask how I go about correcting that code...as I am not even sure really what it means ..other than something is running lean.

 

ok i quickly learned what a hego sensor is...also there are a ton of things that could produce the lean code.
......
any thoughts?

 

Inspect those lines extremely well. I once produced the 332 code while changing my plug wires. I was yanking on the plug wire to get it loose and accidently snagged a vaccum line. I thought i just pulled on the line a little, so i ignored it. Sure enough once i started it back up and got it warm the CEL came on. Came to find out i cracked the line where it connects to the "coffee can".

It was an easy fix. But i played it safe and removed the intake plenum to fully inspect the lines back there as well. You might want to do the same.

 

I am confused by the fact that I had that code previously and never got a CEL. Also there is a stretch around the fuel rail where the vacuum lines disappear in to a harness. I never looked in there but thought it was an unlikely place for a break since it has been protected from the element. I have checked every other line and even replace a few that broke while checking them, but everything looks good.
I have pretty much run out of things to check. I thought perhaps the Map sensor, but its connection looked dry but added some die-electric grease anyway. If I unplug the connector to it..CEL comes on immediately...plug it back in and the light goes off, so I have ruled that out. according to Fordfuelinjection site...there is a long list of things that could be giving me the Hego lean code...and maybe it was there before I cleaned the engine, since I've never done a KOER test. I wonder if I got that sensor wet, but it is in the exhaust somewhere(right?) so I figured that would have dried out rather quickly if water got into the connection on that sensor....also, I am not sure where that is...I do see a sensor at the bottom of the downpipe....but I really am not sure.
On the upside.....my engine looks nice and clean...aargghhhhh!%^$#%#
Time for a drink......
You know...in Newfoundland, they've been drinking for hours already.

 

"On the upside.....my engine looks nice and clean...aargghhhhh!%^$#%#" -ottawaguy

exactly my thought.

 

Freightrain, I'm not sure what you mean by the tapered valve.
I could not for the life of me get that collar off the pipe...
The pin in the evp seems to move fine, the opening between egr and intake seems fine...and the inside of egr is nice and clean. I played with spring a little and the plate on the tube side seems to be fine...
The gasket is shot however....could that be the cause???
I will pick up a new one when I head out later to pick up the honey, and see if that makes a difference.

 

Yep, my problem started after wet season started, water would splash around the engine bay and got into the EGR sensor.That problem of mine would occure after the engine drys out, I guess the water evaporating out of the sensor mung it up. You may want to check the restiance of the EGR solenoid valve. I had that open up before and cause what your describing(no EGR flow due to no solenoid operation)

 

I'm just heading out to pickup the missus...
I'll investigate that when I get back....
Did you have to replace it or were you able to clean it?