Davey, I have gone through some of these issues myself in the year that I have owned my truck. First off, put a new gasket in between the egr and the intake. My egr and egr tube were mated together as well. I was able to get the valve off the tube though because my tube was broken in two underneath that fabric heat shield. Thus, I was able to undo the egr to intake bolts and then remove the egr and broken tube together. I then used a pipe wrench and a pair of visegrips to get the nut loose. Soak it with a penetrant. I used Deep Creep by Seafoam.

I had the same egr codes that you have and I got rid of mine by putting a new gasket in and lubricating the pintle in the egr valve (not the little button on top). I just sprayed it with some DeepCreep and moved the valve up and done a few times with a screwdriver to free it up.

I'd get concerned about that torque converter code if I were you. I didn't and my tranny rebuild cost me over 3 grand last summer...

I've been having lots of trouble with a reaccuring code 172 and I think I've finally solved it. I replaced my o2 sensor. The old one was less than a year old so I was relunctant to blame it but when I pulled in out it was black as can be with carbon and soot.

Good luck.

 

Well it would appear that the good Lord favored me today!
On the way to pick up my honey, I was driving along the river, a little frustrated by the glowing CEL in front of me when I looked up and said like "please make the light go out."
10 seconds later the light went out....then back on...then back off....not to be seen again. Coincidence?...you decide.
I drove for about another 40 minutes and it never came back on.
Then....Got to a tile shop only to find it had closed 15 minutes earlier, but the door was open and the owners car was there....but no one around. I now had to wait for the boys in blue to show up so I could go home. You see...my truck is kind of noticeable, so I was afraid if someone came in after me and stole everything, well, you know which vehicle neighbors would remember seeing in the lot. Also someone could have been hurt somewhere and I didn't want to set off any door alarms poking around, so I thought it prudent to phone. An hour later and I drove home...again, no CEL...yaaaaa!!
Now...
Todd, I appreciate your post. I have been lubricating the collar around the tube and will keep trying, I am just afraid to break it, so I am going to be patient.

I am going to replace the gasket, but I am not sure what you mean by the pintle in the egr valve. Inside the valve itself I see only a spring and a metal plate on the tube side. There is a pin that sticks out of the white piece that attaches to the opposite end of the valve where the wires connect, but it seems to move freely. Are you talking about something else entirely?

As for the TQ code...perhaps I need to find out more about this. I have had that code for some time and i just assumed that it was an age thing partly due to the previous owners negligence. I do have a spare E4OD in the 93 I can use as a backup....not that I want to change the tranny.
Not long after I got the truck, it developed the shudder, then one day it dumped fluid out the front and has been fine since. It seems to drive fine and has no issues when I need it to get up & go...I am actually surprised by the passing ability of the 6cyl. I will start looking into it, but if you can tell me anything about that code...it would be great.
3 grand eh?.. ouch!
.
and finally, I will likely replace that O2 sensor first and see what happens with that.
Thanks again!!

 

Toward the bottom of the egr (just above the tube and nut) the valve has a window where you can see inside the housing. I think sometimes the mechansim gets sticky in there. Spay the inside with a lubricant and then move the assembly up and down with a screwdriver. This is what I did and it worked great. I believe that this is why you you are getting the closed voltage higher than expected code. When the truck is running and warmed up, you can check to see if the egr is working by moving that valve with a screwdriver. The truck will stumble as the exhaust leans out the mixture. Warning though, if you do this it may set a code. Good luck, I don't think this will end up being a tough fix.

 

Hey Todd...In poking around I discovered what you were talking about....I think. You were talking about the pin on the diaphragm itself, right? Mine actually sits horizontally, which probably doesn't help keep it clean.In any event, I did lube that and it seems to move freely. At one point yesterday I got it down to a 332 code. There is another thread where a guy was also having the same trouble. He didn't clean the engine...but everything else seems the same. he switched his egr valve position sensor. Problem Solved! So, I've removed the one from my 93 as it is the same part number. I am going to exchange it right after I finish my lunch. Keeping my fingers crossed.
I will also investigate a few parts which may cause the 628 code and hopefully I won't have to remove the tranny, but we'll see I guess.
What was the cause of your tranny code?
I guess I should be thankful that the trucks still runs and runs good. There are a lot of folks with bigger problems than me.

 

Yep, sounds like you've got it. I didn't realize that the I6 egr's are setup differently. The idea is the same.

 

Thanks Todd, If you can picture it...the tube comes behind engine from passenger side and the egr sits horizontally with the tube sleeve/nut just at the back of the valve cover.
Anyway,It's installed, but I had to break off to do some real work...
I'll update after dinner

 

For the next time...Gunk really isn't the best thing to use on the electronic controlled vehicles...I use a mix of 50/50 simple green industrial and water...adding about 1 tablespoon of dawn dishwash soap to a 16 oz spray bottle....I spray it on, let sit for about 15 minutes and rinse with a "engine cleaning gun" from Harbor freight...it hooks to the air compressor and has a feeder line that drops into a buck which i use hot tap water...works every time and no problems.

 

Well just got home and no dice.
Still there. I did clear the codes before I left, so I am going to go and see if it's still the same code.

 

Beechkid....I've had the can forever in my shop and I saw it last Sunday and thought why not. I've never used that product before and after doing some reading, I won't be using it again.
I still can't be sure it's related as I'm only getting egr codes, but it seems odd that I get the light the morning after I cleaned the engine. Perhaps I need to try and clean the egr better. As I mentioned to BCHauler, my egr sits sideways, so perhaps something got into the egr and is causing it to not sit properly.
I'll keep at it.

 

Double checked pintle in egr...seems ok. Blew it out with air in case there was any clingy crap.checked gasket..again, and swapped out the sensor....but still that damn light.
On the upside...the only code I am getting now is 332. The inside of that egr looks spotless, so I am going to swap the egr solenoid tomorrow, and see what happens. After that...I am guessing a new egr...but I don't see that being it, but who knows.
I will double check vacuum lines as well, but I've been there, done that.

 

Hey man check that egr solenoid, that sure got me going. Hope u have good luck with it. Did u read my post from earlier today, that I left on my thread.

 

andrew 1...I did...you replace the egr valve position sensor though. Did you replace the solenoid as well?
The only thing left is the solenoid and the egr itself. I was leaving the egr till last though, because I don't think I can get if off without breaking the tube. Not sure what that's worth, but the egr is like 2 bills here....not sure why...it's tin can with a spring in it. Anyway, I wll try the solenoid tomorrow and if that's not it....I'm just gonna rip & tear.

 

I've been reading and apparently there is an egr groove in the underside of the throttle body, and it can get clogged with deposits, I wll likely pull the TB as well and check it out.
I've about use up my free time though. I work for myself, so I have some leeway that way, shift some jobs etc, but I remembered that I have to stop and do a quote tomorrow as well as install a commercial humidfier in a warehouse. So It may have to wait till Saturday.
Hope I can get it solved soon though. Jan & Feb are slow months for Renos & construction, but It's about to get busy.

 

ottawaguy if your handy with a torch you can get that tube nut loose. It takes patience and a whole lot of careful. I did it on my 96. After you get it loose be sure to put some antisieze lube on the threads.

 

I don't have a set of cutting torches, but it's on my list.
I do however have a few torches I use for plumbing, which will suffice I imagine. I had considered that, but it looked like there was a ring on the egr diaphragm and I thought I may melt it, so I was playing the patience game with the lubricant. If I had a little more room to work, but it's tight between the intake and the firewall. I may have less than 10 deg. of play. I may see if I can pull the diaphragm back a little and heat it then.
I'll be sure to keep everyone in the loop.
I do appreciate the ideas.....keep 'em coming