Gage troubleshooting Questions
Problem #1 is an Autometer transmission fluid temperature gage. Sender is in the pressure test port, with ground wire on the closest pan bolt. The needle moves up to about 100 degrees when cranking, but with engine running or waiting to start with a hot engine, the needle is on the bottom stop.
Problem #2 is a Banks boost gage. The needle only comes off zero under very hard throttle, but then only goes up to a couple of PSI. The plastic tubing between the gage and the intake fitting kinks easily if bent too hard. I did get one kink in the middle while I was installing... I straightened it out but the tube didn't return to a completely round shape. I figured that so long as it wasn't like a garden hose kinked to stop the flow, that it would be OK. I'm also wondering if I got some pipe dope in the orifice when I put the fitting in the intake. The engine IS running well, so I figure I should be seeing a lot more boost on the gage.
The Banks pyrometer IS working nicely.
Any thoughts on what I should check?
Problem #1 is an Autometer transmission fluid temperature gage. Sender is in the pressure test port, with ground wire on the closest pan bolt. The needle moves up to about 100 degrees when cranking, but with engine running or waiting to start with a hot engine, the needle is on the bottom stop.
Problem #2 is a Banks boost gage. The needle only comes off zero under very hard throttle, but then only goes up to a couple of PSI. The plastic tubing between the gage and the intake fitting kinks easily if bent too hard. I did get one kink in the middle while I was installing... I straightened it out but the tube didn't return to a completely round shape. I figured that so long as it wasn't like a garden hose kinked to stop the flow, that it would be OK. I'm also wondering if I got some pipe dope in the orifice when I put the fitting in the intake. The engine IS running well, so I figure I should be seeing a lot more boost on the gage.
The Banks pyrometer IS working nicely.
Any thoughts on what I should check?
j/kTest the line/boost gauge with compressed air to see if the gauge moves...but if the engine is running OK IMO you kinked the line to far. You can test it for leaks too with soapy water. If the line is ruined you can get a new one at most auto parts stores, it's the same line used on an oil pressure gauge. Pipe dope can be a problem... but you shouldn't need it unless your using it on just the pipe thread portions of the adapter.
What is the lowest temp on the tranny gauge? It can take quite a bit of driving to get your trans hot enough to register especially if you have installed a larger cooler.
... may have pipe dope in the fittings, tubing kinked (it kinks REALLY easily and stays badly kinked; I had one kink just from unpacking that I cut out of the line), and I used a wrench on the ferrule nuts. Looks like another run to the parts store. On the transmission temperature gage, I'm now suspecting I have the gage wired backwards. Lowest mark is 100 degrees; after being off for a long while the needle sits at maybe 50 to 70 (air temp). After some running, the needle goes DOWN to the stop when the truck is started... maybe 0 degrees or lower. Betting I put the wires on the wrong terminals on the back of the gage.
Hey Jim... in all good fun
, the purpose of the truck is to carry all the boats, paddles, and paddlers. 6 bubbas in PFDs in the cab, and a bunch of boats in the bed and on the roof rack. Best load yet, 2 canoes and one kayak on the roof rack, 6 kayaks in the bed, and no creative tie-downs required. Real nice at the end of a long day in early spring, sun going down, temp dropping, just throw stuff in/on the truck, and haul everyone away in one load.





