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Sounds the same as "naval jelly" which I have tried.
Cant tell you anything about the longevity, the only time I use the stuff is when Im doing a quickie and getting it out the door.
Never have the vehicle around long enough to see how long its stands up for.
I believe it's like the stuff I get at home depot in the sprinkler system section. It's sold there for putting in well water sprinkler systems to keep the house, fence, etc. from turning orange. Before we got city water, I would also use it for the sinks, tub & stuff in the house and throw a little in the wash for our clothes. We had real bad rust water even with a complete filteration system.
Have a couple of metal sheds out back that were really starting to show their age. I tried the naval jelly, but was too messy, didn't go very far & seemed to take too long. I put some of the sprinkler sys rust stuff in a spray bottle and dowsed both sheds, rinsed them off, let them dry, primered & painted and they still look good. That was about 2-3 years ago.
Keep in mind - it's not a permanent fix. If you don't treat & cover the rusted surface with a good primer/paint, it WILL be back.
Hey thanks for the responses.I'm trying to figure out what would be the best way of getting rid of alot of surface rust on my '76 f100 when I redo it real soon.I have a sand blaster but I'm scared of warpage and I've never seen sanding get all the little pits of rust out until you wear thru the metal.I don't care about the amount of work involved,I want to make sure the repairs are permanent the first time.Thanks for the replies.
I'd go with the sand blasting, it eats up the rust pretty quick. I used a pressure feed type and 30#mesh sand and had no warping problem on the bed and other parts.
The warping is from spending too much time in one area and building up too much heat.
I'd suggest sand blasting then a good coat of epoxy primer then paint
OR sand blast, treat with Prep & Primer from Home depot ($6~8/qt) or same kind of acid, scuff with 3M red pad, epoxy primer then paint.
Either way, your best off to do the sand blasting, just be sure to keep it moving. If you have a thick part that takes more blasting, blast for a short time, then come back after it cools.
If you don't want to blast, I'd try some type of stripper. The real problem with surface rust ISN'T what you see, it's what's hidden under old paint, bends, cracks, welds... And nothing gets into all the small cracks like blasting.
If your still concerned, buy a $5 fender from the junk yard and try it out.
I've seen oxisolv in the eastwood catalog for years.It is supposed to dissolve surface rust.Have any of you guys or gals used it?
I have used Eastwood's Oxisolve (OS) for years and it works well as a "rust converter." OS does not dissolve rust, but converts the iron oxide to a zink phosphate. To use OS you need to remove all the loose rust by sanding down to bare metal as best you can using sand paper or stiff wire brush. Then clean the surface with acetone of lacquer thinner. Then spray OS onto the surface and keep it wet for ~ 30 minutes at 70F or longer if the temperature is colder. Remove the OS with solvent and the metal will have a grayish / white appearance. Sand the the surface lightly, clean w/ solvent, and prime the surface with an epoxy primer and top coat with paint.
Using a cold galvanizing paint direstly on the metal then primer and paint will prevent
it from coming back. Putting some zinc anodes on the frame and body panels will
send electrolysis to the zinc and corrode that instead of the metal. http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/c...=Zinc%20Anodes
To remove rust stains on painted surfaces without scratching(and other surfaces too)
use murphy's oil soap, that stuff for wood somehow removes the rust quick without
scrubbing or scratching an old timer told me to use it and I didn't believe him until I
tried it!!
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