Front Drum Reinstallation
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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Front Drum Reinstallation
It's been years since I've messed with front drums and I'm wondering what is the procedure for reinstalling the front drums? I know I am supposed to repack the outer wheel bearings but when it comes to putting the castle nut back on, what am I supposed to do? I recall spinning the drum until it hung up and backing it off a bit then putting the cotter pin in but when I look for info online they don't get into any detail at all.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 831
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Texas
You pretty much nailed it. If you have cleaned the inner bearing, you would want to repack it also and replace the grease seal but for an off and on operation that's about it. I like to put the wheel on for final tightening of the nut so I can get a better feel of it. Tighten it down to seat the seal and bearings just until it starts to drag and then back off to the first alignment hole for the cotter pin. Check for slop up and down and side to side. I then like to fill the bearing cup with grease and tap it on. This will force additional grease into the bearing.
Gil
Gil
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
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From: Poway, Ca.
Are you talking about the front drums ie the brake drums, or the wheel hubs? The drums should just drop off when you remove the lug nuts and wheel. (you may have to adjust the brake shoes in a bit to get them past the ridge left by the brake shoes after some wear.)
If you are going to get into the hub, then yes what you have described is correct. Replace the rear grease seal and repack the inner bearing as well.
On the castle ated nut, run it up tight to about 25 pd/ft, then back it off to the first point where you can get the cotter pin through. Be sure to use a new cotter pin and run it through from the top toward the bottom.
If you are going to get into the hub, then yes what you have described is correct. Replace the rear grease seal and repack the inner bearing as well.
On the castle ated nut, run it up tight to about 25 pd/ft, then back it off to the first point where you can get the cotter pin through. Be sure to use a new cotter pin and run it through from the top toward the bottom.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,287
Likes: 1,052
From: NM
I can't look it up right now, but those methods sound awful tight to me. My recollection is you tighten to about 15 - 20 to make sure everything is seated, loosen completely, then tighten just to the point there is no play. As the brakes heat, it increases the preload on the bearings. Excess preload just wears them out, and doesn't help anything. I'll look in the WSM later.
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