I'll be pulling the body off on my 67 F100 in about 6 weeks. I have a plan and final goals in place but I have a application question. There are many rust inhibitor products on the market and they all claim amazing results. So I'd like to get some feedback from you folks that have tried these products.
My plan is this:

1. Remove body, engine, tranny from frame and pressure wash, scrape, and grind as much crude as I can off the frame (want to keep brake lines and such in place).

2. Now here I'm stuck. Which application should I go with?
POR15
Eastwood Rust Encapsilater
Rust Bullett
LPS
KBS Rust Seal and Frame Coater System

(I want to either use the paint application from the manufacturer after the rust application or paint with regular auto paint.)

3. For the cab, I have to replace the floor pans and body front cab mounts. I want to use something like Eastwood's Lizard Skin Sound application underneath the cab with an additional inside of cab coat of Ceramic coating (or should I reverse the aplication surfaces - ceramic out & sound inside? Or both outside and foil inside?)

4. For the frame I'm leaning towards KBS Frame Coater system? You can get a Black final paint coat with it.

I will be replacing all the body mounts and front end bushings with Poly bushings as well as doing a complete brake job while the body is off.

I'd appreciate anyones likes or dislikes on these, or any other products you have used.

Thanks,
Tim
1967 F100 2WD LB/ 351W 4V/ C4/ 9"
1966 F100 2WD SB/ 300 I6/ 4 SP/ 9"

 

I done a 64 fairlane awhile back with rust blast . What I found is there is a certain time to wash the inhibitor off . I found that I could put the last coat on and definately keep it wet (with inhibitor ) and wash off . (basically put the last coat on then rinse it off within 2-3 minutes ) If you dont rinse in the correct time the rust will reappear within a day or so . (sometimes as it dries ) Trial and error is the best solution . I believe they are good products as long as you do it correctly .(this may change with weather conditions ) thanks rg

 

Thanks Inkahootz,
I'll keep that in mind. I geneally read the instructions a couple of times before I start one of these deals.

Tim

 

I have used POR 15. It is amazing at what this product does. I had a friend try the Eastwood stuff and all I can say is it isnt worth it. It went on like water and barely did anything. His rust came back.

 

There is also another product that was not on the list (OSPHO) http://www.ospho.com/ I have used this stuff with varied results. I prefer to use this stuff as a rust treatment and not an inhibitor. The reason is that it leaves a residue and if you paint over it, you can see where you brushed, or sprayed, it on. Typically what I do is wire brush all the rust that I can, apply the OSPHO, wipe it off before it is completely dry, and then prep for paint. I used this stuff on a resto that I did about a year ago, but I can't guarantee the long term results, because I sold the car. I recently used it on the rear bumper of my F100 that was lightly rusted before I re-painted it. Time will tell.

 

Thanks 73CaliF100,
I checked their site out and the price is right. There is a Sherwin Williams store up here. I'll check them out tomorrow and get the specs. I'm not too worried about the brush stroke bleed thru on the frame or under the body. It's not a show rig, I'm more concerned about protection. I'll deal with the bodies surface rust when I start putting it back on the frame, might use something like POR15 for that. I won't have to use as much of the spendy stuff. I've pretty much decided to use the Lizard Skin under the cab and bed after the rust protection application. It will cover any bleed thru and seal it up.
I didn't mention I've also considered sand blasting the frame but I would need to disassemble everything down to bare frame, a lot of work. But by the time I get the front end re-bushed I'll be close to having it completly tore down.
I understand you can't use the rust inhibiter on clean metal, it needs the oxidation to work properly? Therefore I would have to use an etching primer and paint it.
Once again thanks for the info and ideas. Like I said I'm still 6 wks are so away from getting started.

Tim

 

OSPHO is reasonably priced, but I can't gaurantee that it's the right stuff for your job. I would do some more research. By the way...the best way to treat rust is to completely remove it.

 

I have found just the opposite. In extreme environments Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator beats POR-15 easily. Both applied according to sheet after cleaning off loose rust and leaving just a little surface rust. POR requires a special cleaning step with their metal cleaner while Eastwood does not. Both were brush applied and I don't think viscosity has much to do with anything. I used two coats of Eastwood as it can be applied over without having to deal with a hard surface like POR. Two years later, after two rainy seasons in water, and the Eastwood wins hands down. POR showing rust spots through the POR and top coat.

To be more effective I prefer to use a Rust Converter like Eastwood has or even Picklex 20. Then cover with my red primer and color topcoat on the ship or a DPF epoxy primer on the inside of a car panel like a fender. Outside panels are cleaned down to bare shiny metal. A floor pan I am doing had a little surface rust which was removed with a rotary abrasive pad. The little pits left were ospho'd and then I brushed on red lead primer which I have assess to. Then painted seafoam green alkyd industrial enamel on top before laying insulation and my carpet. Better than what Ford did in 1967 and this will never rust on the inside.

 

I have used both Por15 and Rust Bullit and both have worked great, don't know anything about the others though.