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I have a 79-460 in my truck. I have done the timing gear swap taking the pollution retard out. I have also installed a Comp cams 260H. I also have installed a Procomp electronics 6AL, a procomp PC91 coil, and a Procomp PC 8024 dizzy (there is no vacuum pot on the dizzy). My question is this. What timing should I be showing with the timing light to best utilize this setup? When power timing it I can get up to 28 degrees without pinging. The 6AL and me do not understand each other. I do not know how much it will advance and at what rpm it comes in with the 6AL. Does the rev limiters position make any difference to the advance the 6AL delivers? If it is set to 9000 rpm is the advance curve different than when it is set at 5500 rpm?
Max timing should be no more than 36°, I run mine at 34°. Set it there and then check you initial and you have your answer. You do realize that no vacuum advance hurts fuel economy a bunch.
First I have to say I goofed with the Dizzy number. It is a procomp PC-8004, not the 8024 I mentioned earlier. Still does not have a vacuum advance tho.
Second is How do I determine the maximum timing. I know how to use a timing light but aint real sure what initial and max timing are.
Third is, No I did not realize that no vac pot would be hard on fuel.
Fourth is the fact that I dont know how it could be any more responsive than it is right now. I cant believe how fast it is.
I am having a problem with the fact that at 2800-3000 rpm I am missing or popping (for lack of better decription) and at all rpm above that. I am trying to determine if it is timing or other ignition parts. It could also be carb related as this is about the point the secondaries would be coming in. I have gone down 3 sizes in the secondary jets which seems to make it worse. I have gone up 3 sizes and same thing. It is a 750 speed demon with vacuum secondaries. Bear: I know you will say it is too big, but it is what I got. Thanks for your input guys.
First I have to say I goofed with the Dizzy number. It is a procomp PC-8004, not the 8024 I mentioned earlier. Still does not have a vacuum advance tho.
Second is How do I determine the maximum timing. I know how to use a timing light but aint real sure what initial and max timing are.
Third is, No I did not realize that no vac pot would be hard on fuel.
Fourth is the fact that I dont know how it could be any more responsive than it is right now. I cant believe how fast it is.
I am having a problem with the fact that at 2800-3000 rpm I am missing or popping (for lack of better decription) and at all rpm above that. I am trying to determine if it is timing or other ignition parts. It could also be carb related as this is about the point the secondaries would be coming in. I have gone down 3 sizes in the secondary jets which seems to make it worse. I have gone up 3 sizes and same thing. It is a 750 speed demon with vacuum secondaries. Bear: I know you will say it is too big, but it is what I got. Thanks for your input guys.
Max timing is checked just like initial, but with a few things different. First make sure you have a retard timing light. Set it to 36°. Mark the damper with chalk or paint at 0° (mine are all marked at 0° and 10° with paint). Hook up the light and start the motor. Rev it up until the timing mark quits moving (probably 3500 to 4000 rpm) and read where the pointer is at. That is total advance. Now set total advance to 34° as a compromise by twisting the dist. Now check initial at idle. You now know where to set timing on initial.
I suspect you have to much timing cranked into the motor and/or your carb is too lean. Set timing first then play with the carb. Read you spark plugs, they will tell you if you are rich or lean or just right. Change the primary jets not the secondary jets. Secondaries are rarely, if ever too lean, where primaries almost always are to lean.
Is there any way to check it without the retard timing light. I do not have one and may not be able to get one till monday. I have checked the plugs and 4 of them #1,4,5,8 look tan. The other 4 are more to the white/lean side. Thanks.
I had to go out and buy a dial back so I could do this, then got hung up for a few days. Now, I have set my total advance to 34 degrees. This leaves it at 18 degrees while at idle. It still is popping etc. I am wondering what the gap should be between the magnetic pick up and the reluctor wheel. Mine was at 21 thousands. I have reduced that to 10 but am wondering if this is a good idea before I run it. It is a Procomp PC-8004 Dizzy Thanks, Doug
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I contacted Procomp's help line and got the magnetic pick up gap set. I still have the popping at 3000 rpm and up. I think I need to recurve the dizzy. I am getting 16 degrees all in by 4000 rpm. That does not seem right to me, but I aint all that knowledgeable when it comes to this. Any thoughts on this?
Is there any way to check it without the retard timing light. I do not have one and may not be able to get one till monday. I have checked the plugs and 4 of them #1,4,5,8 look tan. The other 4 are more to the white/lean side. Thanks.
You can buy a cheap timing tape from Mr Gasket that will degree the entire balancer, at least you used to be able to... check Summit Racing or your local speed shop.
Just clean the outer circumference of the balancer real good, line it up and stick it on. Now your regular timing light will read total advance. Aim the light and rev her up.