Hey guys. today i compleatly took off my grill and hood latch panel and all my front lights. it was actually pretty difficult, few bloody knuckles. but it came off. all my bolts were rusted so it took some wrenching, i think i broke 3 of them. but im ready to pull the fenders and i was hoping someone would have some good advice on bolt locations and/or techniques for removal. thanks

 

Wyatt, seems the most difficult bolts were those securing the grill to the fender which you have already removed. There's also the bolt inside the cab thru an access plate by air vent. I applied some penetrating oil, kroil works good, or something simular, if nothing else givum a shot of WD40, it's better than nothing, then should set for several hours. Read a thread where 'coca cola' works good. I usually start with the less difficult and work to the bolts that are down right rusted. For these remaining, hopefully few, all rules of engagement go out the window. Most importantly, try and not strip the heads. Found an impact air gun seems to direct the torque from the center and possibly less chance of stripping the head, if using an impact gun suggest setting mid range level. If don't have an impact gun, then may try placing socket, or wrench on the head and tapping with rubber hammer, while trying to remove the bolt, simular to the action of the impact driver. Found that if the speed nut spins then wedging a screwdriver tip in the threaded half of the speed nut and try binding the threads to the bolt enough for threads to catch. Finally, if all else fails there's the Oxy/Acel cutting torch, fortunately, have not had to resort to it yet, usally combination of make shift tools will work. I replaced all the speed nuts, and bolts and reassembling less labor intensive. Also, found assembling the front clip; grill, upper-lower valance, support brackets, bottom pan, etc. makes installation go much easier. Anyhow, imagine other members will be posting suggestion.

 

reccomend spraying the bolts with some PB Blaster first and letting in sit and penetrate a lil' while before attempting to remove bolts. Might save you from braking a few, I love this stuff, you can find it most places think i bought my last can at Auto Zone :

 

*breaking*

 

When taking nut's and bolts apart you want to loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, so on and so on. Makes it a lot easier, it is more time consuming but it's easier on the threads. As suggested by daveengelson: assembling the front clip; grill, upper-lower valance, support brackets, bottom pan, etc. makes installation go much easier.
So much easier.
Forgot to mention, an additional pair of hands is reccomended but not mandatory. You do need someone there with a camera for that Kodak moment, busting a knuckle face.
Be carefull and take your time. When re-attaching grille look at bolts carefully. If you have longer bolts then some DO NOT put them in areas where they will go through the grille. I've seen a lot of grilles with holes do to long bolts put in the wrong spot.

 

Ive pulled a few noses apart...a definate pain and one where patience is needed...PB Blaster is the best...before blasting though wire brush the heck as much as you can of the nuts/bolts. Garbz is 100% correct about the shorter bolt damage...almost did it myself 1st time but caught it before any damage...the lower bolts especially use what I call peanut bolts...threaded portion almost as big as the bolt head...Once you get ready to reassemble I STRONGLY reccomend using later type nutclips which were all one piece...these were used 66 up in the trucks and proly the same in the cars...makes removal/assembly alot easier IMO.
The fasteners at the ends of the grille are typically a #3 Phillips head but I have seen regular bolts like the fender fasteners there as well...
What I have gotten into the habit of doing when disassembling the core support/grille is to pull the grille with upper and lower valances as one then seperating valances from grill...opens up the upper and lower bolts/nutplates for putting a wrench on them.
Lastly, as for loosening a bit and tightening as you go...thats the way...but when I loosen to tight spot and retighten, I flush whatever crap off after its retightened. Occasionally wire brush if lots of dirt,rust, etc.
One other thing to look for is the use of undercoating or tires marbles...Ive run into a few that had the undercoating on them...chip it off and go to town wrenching.


Happy Wrenching, cs65

 

Thanks for all the info guys. for the drivers side i have already gotten all the bolts removed from the front grill area so the fender can wiggle back and forth on what im guessing is bolts that are located near the cab. all the bolts that hold it to the inner fender are removed as well. my next question is what are the bolt locations that fasten it to the cab? i thought i found one, near the cab directly on the bottom of the fender on the inside but i cant get to the nut on the other side of it. its just spinning. exactly how many cab to fender bolts are there? im guessing 2 but im not sure

 

On my 65 there's 2, one on the bottom, and another approx. 18" above it but can only get to it thru an access panel next to the vents on the side panel. Usually requires socket and extention, try and not drop the socket or extention down the cavity, can be 'bad on the sit upon' ;(picking up on few of the British metaphors, how cool)!

 

IF you do round off a bolt head, I would suggest that you do as I have done in the past. I use a drimmel tool (or air grinder) with a cutting disk to cut an X in the rounded head. Then I use a chisel (air or hand) to pop the x-cut head off and the threaded part falls thru. Of course you have to be able to get at the bolt head first. It works real well and you're not grinding the sheet metal.

Tim

 

Once they are all off do yourself a favor and order the front end stainless bolt kit from Carolina Classics. I'm waiting for warm weather so I can spray the new rad support and inner fenders before I hang the front clip. Stainless bolt kit is sitting in a box in the cab. Seems pretty complete.

 

Mentioned in my thread I replaced all the sheet metal hardware, actually replaced all the J, U, and speed nuts, for the original nuts and bolts in good condition, either used a wire wheel, or gave them a shot in cabinet blaster.

 

The rear bolt that is spinning the nut is removed by drilling the head off. You can't get a dremmel or air grinder in the hole to do any good. start by drilling a 3/16" hole in the center of the head and work up in sizes until the head pops off. if the bolt spins while drilling pull the front of the fender out to put some tension on the bolt and drill slowly.

 

Never under estimate a working mans inginuity? Glad it work out. Like I said the drimmel works great if you can get to it?
Tim

 

yeah when i get that one off i dont think its going back in lol

 

I believe mine never made it back on but mine is tore all apart at the moment. I will be welding a stud to the fender when it all goes back together