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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

replacing valve cover gaskets

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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 03:57 PM
  #1  
aaronlockhart's Avatar
aaronlockhart
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From: Biloxi, MS
replacing valve cover gaskets

The valve covers are oily as hell right now which made me think I should replace the gaskets... Bought the rubber gaskets cause I thought they'd be a little more durable and easier to handle than the cork ones....

Any suggestions from people who've done this before? I might spray paint the valve covers for the hell of it while they're off the engine tomorow too...

Any idea where I could find out to what degree I should torque the bolts on the valve covers back to? I don't have a manual, yet... The engine is a 302.

And the gaskets came with a half sheet of directions, telling me to use adhesive on them to keep them in place, what should I use? RTV sealant?

Thanks y'all... New guys learn slow.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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hi aaron u need to torque the bolts down to 132 to 168 inch-lbs use super weather strip adv r u can put a little axle grease on the valve cover to hold the gasket and u mite won't to go get a haynes book from auto parts store it will tell u allmost all the info u need the books do help.good luck
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 06:13 PM
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When you get the valve covers off, clean them up and before you paint them, turn them upside down and lay the edge on a flat table. Take a small hammer and flatten down the metal around the bolt holes, since the bolts and over zealous previous owners may have torqued the bolts down too much, and that bends the metal around the holes.

When you go to install them, use a nut driver to torque the bolts, or if you use a ratchet, grab the ratchet up by the head with one hand and torque the bolts. After a day or two of running it, re-torque the bolts again. After about a month, re-torque them again, and you should be good for awhile.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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I just replaced mine on the '85 with the Felpro gaskets that are metal with a rubber bead around them. They have metal inserts at each bolt hole to prevent crushing the gasket. No adhesive or sealer is recommended and so far no oil leakage. They cost a little more (about $35) but with the EFI its a pain in the **** to get to them so I did not want to have to re do them again.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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From: McKenzie River
I use some 6in. long pieces of threaded rod screwed down into the valve cover bolt holes to help guide the valve cover down on to the head, helps align the valve cover and keeps the gasket from moving when it makes contact.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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From: Biloxi, MS
Thanks for all the input everybody...

I took the covers off and broke the old gasket loose (it was cork) and I powerwashed the valve covers clean, I'm going to wait until they're good and dry before I put them back on...

While I was under there I noticed some of the rubber hoses aren't connected to anything, and are even plugged with bolts... Not sure if this is a big deal or not, but I'm thinking theres probably a better way to plug these hoses? I bought a Haynes manual so I'm going to try to find out what these are supposed to be connected to...

I can already tell my next project is going to have to be cleaning out the carb...
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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You should have a vacuum diagram under the hood on a sticker near the battery, it takes a minute to figure out what it all means, but it helps alot.
 
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