For you guys with a pyrometer on your 6.0, where did you put the temp probe? I've heard of them put on the down pipe behind the turbo and also directly into the exhaust manifold. Input? Thanks.

Schmitty

 

I put mine right on the drivers side manifold, that will give you the most correct temperature of whats actually going into your turbo.. there is a difference in temperature obviously between the two places.. but i cant remember what the difference is.. someone will chime in that knows..

 

Drivers side manifold

 

+1 for me too

 

Drivers side manifold is more accurate than the downpipe!

 

3-Gauge Install Pictures
Here is the pic of where to install probe. Drivers side exhaust manifold.

 

It's a good idea to have the engine running while you drill through the manifold and perform the tapping. It will force all the chips out through the drill and tap flutes. Smells Kinda nice too while doing it. Just kidding. It had my eyes watering.

 

only problem with doing it with the egine running is if you break a drillbit. it then will suck it up and ruin your turbo. To many have done it with the engine off and not had any problems to chance it, IMO. I did it with the engine off and most of the shaving fell out anyway.

Use an 11/32" drill bit and a 1/8"-27 TPI NPT tap and you'll be set

 

I have done four in the driver`s side mainifold, Did all with motor off, no grease on bit, drill easy, then vaccum out hole with shop vac then tap, and clean again. I had three go with no problem and then i broke the drill bit off in the fourth one, thank god it was not running. Did not want to buy my neighbor a new turbo. if you use grease the metal ships stick to the inside of manifold and then while running the grease melts, then chips run thru turbo. Good luck.

 

It's right around 400°

 

I'll be removing the manifold when I do mine in a few weeks, not taking any chances.

 

Removing the manifold is such an overkill, you don't need to go that far, it's an easy job. All the shavings will fall in your face anyways so don't forget to wear safety glasses.
Just use several different size drill bits, it's easy to drill into the manifold especially with good bits.
just take it slow and make sure you have the correct size final bit size for the tap.
when you're all done, run a skinny magnet or a magnatized screwdriver up in the hole to find anything. the hole will be big enough. When I tested the hole for shavings, I didn't find a single one.
the last thing I did was to take a Q-tip bent at a 90° but it came out clean. Using a Q-tip, the fibers will grab any metal dust left in there.
Some out there used a vacuum which would work great too.

 

Not. It won't break off past the hole. Anyone that has experience in metal working knows it would only break off in the material before it got through. If you break it off after it gets through you must be doing some break dancing under your truck while you're drilling.
BTW, Quadzilla has this in there pyrometer installation instructions.They have to protect themselves and would not have put this in their instructions if they did not have a high confidense level in using this method. I used their instructions and it worked just like they said it would.

 

I plan to do this in the near future. Without any prior experience, is there a standard drill bit and tap for any pyrometer probe and guage you end up with.....or are some different?

 

The 1/8" NPT pipe thread takes a letter Q (0.332" diameter). If your drill is not a split point drill bit then maybe a 1/8" drill would be a good first hole drill then follow with the Q drill. The 1/8" drill does not have to go all the way through the manifold. It's purpose is to provide a guided path for the larger drill to go straight through. The split point drill is better because it will prevent drill tip wandering. Remember to hold your pressure you apply to your electric drill directly behind your drill bit. Put your hand over the back end of the electric drill in line with the bit drilling direction. What you are trying to do is prevent any lateral force on the drill bit that will break it.
After your drilled hole is complete do not run your tap in all the way to it's last thread. Doing so will leave your threaded hole too large for your 1/8" NPT fitting, that is around the thermocouple, to tighen up. Just run the tap in about 1/4 of it's threaded length.
Also, it is good practice to rotate the tap only 1/4 to 1/2 turns followed by a 1/4 turn in the reverse direction. This busts out and clears the metal chips and prepares a clean path for the next 1/4 to 1/2 turn in the clockwise direction. So its 1/4-1/2 turn CW then 1/4 turn CCW then 1/4-1/2 turn CW then 1/4 turn CCW, etc. until your have burried about 1/4 of your tap's threaded length. Then back it out and put some No-seize paste on your thermocouple threaded adapter and run it in. You can buy a small sugar pack size packet of this at your auto supply store if it's not supplied with your thermocouple installation kit. You should be able to screw in your thermocouple assembly and burry the thermocouple adapter's threads into all of the manifold threads and still have some of the adapter's threads sticking out of your tapped hole.