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Pyrometer Install

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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #31  
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cartmanea
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You drill the hole out, starting with a very small drill bit and going up in small increments to keep the shaving/chip size small. The tap you run in by hand, don't use a drill for that. Use cutting oil, and go only about 1/4 turn at a time, backing off to clear the cut material. So like, forward 1/4 turn, back 1/4 turn, forward 1/2 turn, back 1/4 turn, forward 1/2, back 1/4, etc. Since it is tapered pipe thread, don't tap too deep or the fitting could bottom out before getting tight.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 01:24 PM
  #32  
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awesome thanks
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #33  
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the tap requires a T-wrench.
I found the small T- handle wrench to work the best due to clearance issues.
This will give you more control than larger T-handle tap wrenches but a little harder on the fingers.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #34  
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I forget how I did it, but I managed to put a socket and ratchet on my tap.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 08:36 PM
  #35  
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Hey Bamf heres some info to tap into !

If you really want to tackle this get yourself a tap handle , it makes a T out of your tap so you can keep it straight and even cutting . Practice on a piece of 3/32" thick tubing so you kind of feel what the tap does as it cuts , the forged manifold will be different but its close enough . Since you are going to do this with the tap [and drill] upside down it will help that cutting chips will fall down but I like the idea someone had of getting the shop vac close to the hole . Maybe not needed but simple prevention !I haven't done mine yet , the truck is still in the US and I am having it shipped to Costa Rica next month but most of these things I will be tackling myself , I have a friend with extra hands and a clean garage floor to work on and plenty of patience so here goes it ! Enjoy , Pura Vida or PURE LIFE !
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 02:54 PM
  #36  
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Resurrecting old thread with rookie questions

Some of the lingo/suggestions confuse me (it's not hard). To make sure I get this right...

1) the probe is 1/8" thick, so I need to drill a 1/8" hold through the manifold.
2) the ferrule nut appears to be 11/32" diameter (or "R" per diselmanor) and the threads are 27. I don't think I need to drill/tap a 11/32" hole all the way through the manifold, but only about 1/4" inch or so into the manifold. Correct?
3) the instructions above and at diselmanor (3-Gauge Install Pictures) say to use a 1/8" NPT tap for the ferrule nut, but wouldn't that be too small? I'm confused as to why I'd use a 1/8" NPT to tap an 11/32" hole.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 03:55 PM
  #37  
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Don't make a federal case out of this: just follow the instructions given:
3-Gauge Install Pictures
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 04:03 PM
  #38  
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You have to drill it all the way through for the tap to work correctly.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #39  
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I'd does seem screwy but the pipe taps are larger than the size they are designated. A 1/8 npt tap is not 0.1250in. It will make sense when you have the tap in your hand. If you look for a single letter drill R at Lowes you may not find one. My (ancient) drill chart over my workbench shows a 11/32 drill for a 1/8-27 pipe thread (0.3438 vs 0.339). They will have these bits. The probe will thread in slightly farther however, used the bit in your instructions as it's hard to make a hole smaller after you've drilled it.
If you are interested in learning why the npt thread sizes don't figure, check the second paragraph here:
http://www.engineersedge.com/hardwar...pe-threads.htm
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #40  
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Thanks again rusty, I'm in lockdown so no reps for you.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #41  
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Hey BenchWrench , youve done most of the mods I have and or plan to do to my 07 King Ranch F 350 . Are you happy with your exhaust and tuner ? Thanks and dont forget to VOTE !
 
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 07:11 PM
  #42  
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if you drill the hole with the engine running how can it suck up a broken bit at the same time its blowing shavings away?

your best bet is to drill and tap very slow, there is no point rushing this procedure. more times than not you'll break a bit or a tap if you rush. that's just my $.02 and experience. i drill and tap a lot of holes when i'm installing commercial doors and hardware.

oh yea, taping the vacuum nozzle right by the hole is an good idea. i do it alot when i'm working in occupied buildings, we do alot of remodeling.

great info as usaul, thanks everybody.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 05:58 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
I'd does seem screwy but the pipe taps are larger than the size they are designated. A 1/8 npt tap is not 0.1250in. It will make sense when you have the tap in your hand. If you look for a single letter drill R at Lowes you may not find one. My (ancient) drill chart over my workbench shows a 11/32 drill for a 1/8-27 pipe thread (0.3438 vs 0.339). They will have these bits. The probe will thread in slightly farther however, used the bit in your instructions as it's hard to make a hole smaller after you've drilled it.
If you are interested in learning why the npt thread sizes don't figure, check the second paragraph here:
National Standard Taper Pipe Threads Size NPT Chart - Engineers Edge
Thanks. Reps sent.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:06 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by chucks wow surf
Hey BenchWrench , youve done most of the mods I have and or plan to do to my 07 King Ranch F 350 . Are you happy with your exhaust and tuner ? Thanks and dont forget to VOTE !
very happy with my mods, most were done back in 2007 and haven't had a single problem with either. I like the fact that Magnaflow doesn't use aluminized steel in any of their exhaust systems like other manufacturers.
Still using the Xcal2 jockying between about 10 different tunes on disc.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #45  
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Pyrometers installation: will the scan gauge 2 in a truck display exhaust gas temp and if so, as acurately as a drilled/mounted pyrometers?
Wheatted
 
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