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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Pyrometer Install

Old Mar 5, 2009 | 10:40 AM
  #16  
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tazo
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When I drilled the manifold I taped the end of my shop vac hose next to the drill area. So when I drilled and taped the shavings didn't go into the manifold or my face. I then vacuumed out the whole really good. No problems at all. I just took it really slow and carefully. I had more problems with sweat going into my eyes worring about screwing up my truck.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 10:45 AM
  #17  
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Wow.....didn't expect such a detailed response, but really appreciate it. I am sure a few other folks will benefit. Thank you! I can pretty much do anything mechanical if I have some documentation or instruction. Its always the little things that will ruin your day.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 08:01 PM
  #18  
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DO NOT drill with the motor running.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 05:22 AM
  #19  
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Your certainly welcome Boobin. I used to manage a group of machinery mechanics and do enjoy helping.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:50 AM
  #20  
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the dieselmanor.com has a pretty good write up including photos of pyrometer install if that will help
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 01:58 PM
  #21  
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Thanks for that tip too. I happened to look their last night after viewing this thread and found they also sell the drill bit and tap. Nice to be able to do some "one stop shopping". Now I just need to decide which brand I want to run.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 04:56 PM
  #22  
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dieselmanor.com says "up to a size "R" drill bit (0.339")". So which one is it, Q or R?


And they also recommend doing it while the vehical is not running.

http://dieselmanor.com/diy/PSD3-gauge/image24.htm
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 06:28 PM
  #23  
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I think the R bit is correct, but you can use an 11/32" drill bit, which is almost identical and easier to find. Then all you need is a 1/8"-27 TPI NPT tap and you'll be set. I got my tap for about $6. I just did a pyro install a couple of weeks ago and it was pretty easy
 
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 03:19 PM
  #24  
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Is it best to moniter only one side of the engine with the probe in the drivers side manifold? What if an injector on the passanger side fails and dumps fuel in the cylinder. The EGT guage will have no idea anything is wrong.
If the probe is in the down pipe if would show up right away on the guage.

As long as you know the difference is 400* between the manifold and down pipe isn't it better to moniter EGT's from both sides of the engine?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 03:49 PM
  #25  
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How about in the Y pipe before the turbo, is it much cooler there than in the manifolds? I find it hard to believe that it would cool enough to make a significant difference.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 05:15 PM
  #26  
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The Y pipe is to close to the cab and to thin.

Drill it with it running, the pressure inside the exhaust pushes everything out. No grease, no vacuum, no issues. Once you are close to geting through, dont push to far in and bang around, you wont break a bit. Mines been done this way for 50000 Km or so.

Remember, the manifold is cast, its not like its making big strings of steel that will cause a problem, its cast, it drills like powder. Is a small 1/8 to pilot, then your final size, and wear safety googles, cause it blows out there quite a bit. Also, leave your garage open, enjoy the smell of diesel burning!

Cartman, dont bother pulling the whole manifold, unless you are looking to spend quality time with your truck....
 
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #27  
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I love quality time with my truck I think I will leave the manifold on though.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 12:41 PM
  #28  
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what do you use to "tap" the manifold? I have never done this before so I'm curious. I don't want to screw it up by trying to tap it crooked or something either. Thanks
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 12:43 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BAMF
what do you use to "tap" the manifold?
You use a tap. I guess I don't understand the question. If you don't know what a tap is then have somebody do the install for you.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #30  
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No, i understand what a tap is but do you use a drill or a wrench to spin it into the manifold??
 
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