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Priming a rebuilt motor

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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 02:59 PM
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Priming a rebuilt motor

I went thru my 460 including rings cam and crank bearings and I should be starting it up shortly. I have primed engines in the past by using a 1\2 drill thru the dizzy shaft but I was wondering what is the difference of doing that and removing all the plugs and spinning the motor with the starter just before startup? Will it remove the prelube prematurely?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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Use the drill
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 03:30 PM
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I second the drill... With a smaller drill you will be able to tell when the oil presure is comeing up... Buy the sound of the drill will slow...Lew
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 04:11 PM
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Use the drill because oil pressure is the only thing that prevents metal-metal contact on those new crank bearings you just put in.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 04:46 PM
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Do you guys have any idea what kinda torque it should take to rotate the motor at the damper bolt once it is assembled? I don't have any accessories hooked up but I have the heads (including pushrods) and the dizzy on. Just wondering if there was a generally accepted range when you rotate the motor with a torque wrench.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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Not sure what your talking about... You wont get any oil press buy turning the crank with a wrench..Just pull the dizzy & use a drill...Your only turning the oil pump ???
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by lew52
Not sure what your talking about... You wont get any oil press buy turning the crank with a wrench..Just pull the dizzy & use a drill...Your only turning the oil pump ???
Sorry this is a totally different question. Maybe I should have started a separate thread but I got her all buttoned up and I was wondering if there was a tolerance or a rule of thumb as to how much effort it would take to rotate the assembly. For instance would a 460 (without the plugs in) take 35 pounds of torque to rotate it and the damper bolt? If 35 pounds is ok is 55 too much or is there no data or experience to establish such a measurement. It seems that if you had a cam or crankbearing to tight it would show up by requiring too much resistance when trying to turn the motor and the damper bolt.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 05:38 PM
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OK i see what your saying... You can rotate it no problem with a wrench... that would be a job to turn it with a drill LOL... Lew
 
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