How do I remove just the intake manifold on a 1985 feedback carb setup? I am trying to replace the heat riser gasket. I have removed the carb and unbolted the three bolts that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds together and removed the six bolts that hold the intake to the head (I hope it's just six bolts) but the intake won't pull off the head. There is no clearance to get a socket onto the lower bolts, but those bolts are just for the exhaust manifold right? What am I missing? Any help would be appreciated.

 

The Lower bolts have to at least be loosened a little bit because they hold the tabs of both the intake and exhaust manifolds onto the head

 

I was afraid of that. I'll just have to try and get a socket in there some way then. Thanks for the help

 

There's an intake and an exhaust tab under each bolt minus the ones on the end. It really isn't that difficult to remove the whole assembly if you have everything out of the way already. It's just heavy. Even easier if you've already unbolted the two from each other.

I'm sure you wouldn't, but don't forget to torque the bolts down in the proper order when you're done or you'll get leaks and possibly warpage.

 

I didnt bother. I think I'm just going to let the exhaust blow out of the heat riser and just drive this thing for the few months it will be my daily driver. Then take it out back and shoot it (happily). Thanks for the help

 

Well I've decided to repair this truck and for that I'm taking the intake and exhaust manifold off, but I still have the same problem with the lower bolts. Lower bolts being the manifold to head ones under the intake manifold, between the intake and exhaust manifold. The back few near the firewall came out fine but the front three I still can not slip a socket over these bolts. I can almost get it started if I **** the socket to one side but it's still not enough purchase to turn the bolts with. My sockets are 6 point and I'm wondering if 12 point are a little thinner walled and will fit in there better. I'll go buy a 9/16 12 point tomorrow and go try that. (truck is in a storage unit). But until then does anybody have any tricks or advice for getting these out? The socket doesn't hit the exhaust manifold below the bolt head, it hit the intake manifold above the bolt head. Thanks

 

I don't remember having any issues with getting a socket onto any except for the ones behind the carb (due to the carb housing just being in the way).
I remember my set is all 12 sided, so getting one may just do the trick.

 

If you removed the upper bolts and not the lower bolts, you've removed them out of sequence and the manifolds could have warped. You should check them for flatness before you reinstall. That's too much uneven pressure on the upper and lower mounting ears.

 

Well this is weird. I just talked to my dad about special 'thin-walled' sockets and if they are available or where to get them. He told me to just grind down the outside of a socket on a bench grinder to get the outside diameter down to what you need. He asked me what size I needed and I said 9/16 and he said he has a 9/16 he ground down before (course his tools are back in Utah). I asked him what he needed a 9/16 socket ground down for and he said an old 240 he rebuilt years ago! I was like 'you're kidding, to get the intake and exhaust manifold off?' he said yeah. Imagine that, small world I guess. So I'm glad abandonedbronco that you're manifolds came off fine but at least now I know that my problem is not unique either. Guess I'm grounding down a 9/16 socket...........

 

I realize that, but these aren't going back on so I'm not too concerned about it. I will of course install the clifford and efi manifolds properly, but this whole 'combustion manifold' is scrap as soon as it's off.

By the way. Being that the clifford is aluminum, is the final torque for installing it lower than it is for the stock IBBl intake?

 

Heh, that's a pretty cool story. Small world sometimes indeed. Hopefully a thinner walled socket should do the trick. Come to think of it, I did have some 9/16" sockets that didn't fit, and my 12 sided ones have been able to fit in places others haven't.

I just installed an Offenhauser aluminum intake on mine and I torqued it to the stock 26ft/lb spec. I certainly hope it wasn't too tight. Seems to be just fine though.

 

Just thought I'd post and say that the manifolds came off today. I sure hope installing the EFI manifolds and the clifford goes smoother. Think I'll be going out and getting some threaded rod and making studs to make it a little easier. Thanks for the help

 

You could probably buy manifold studs with the required fasteners and all at an auto parts store I wouldn't advise using all-thread, as it usually does not hold up to being torqued down as well as pre-fabbed studs - unless you can get some high-grade all-thread (grade 8?).

 

Glad you got the manifold off! And yes, putting the Clifford and EFI manifolds back on is much easier and there's plenty of clearance. Only issue you will run into is just the difficulty of balancing three manifolds at once instead of one. You may or may not need to do grinding on the EFI manifolds to get them to go together. Can't say for sure since I did the grinding on mine when I was installing them with the stock intake.

With mine, I got grade 8 studs from a specialty place here in town with hardened nuts, and then used all of the stock thick washers. It worked awesome and was SO much easier to put on. The studs allowed me to balance and hang the three pieces much easier. Get a few bolts and washers in place with just a tiny bit of tightness and it'll start holding things in place. Wiggle the manifolds around until they sit more where you want them, put a few more nuts on, tighten slightly, etc. Eventually, it'll all be nice and snug and the process worked well for me.

Do NOT get automotive grade studs from a place like Ace Hardware. After I had it all torqued down, I had four of them snap in half before I could even get the engine started. Nothing but junk. That and they were more expensive than the hardened steel ones I got.

You will also need to rework your exhaust since you now have two outs instead of one. The stock exhaust size was 1 7/8", which is going to really limit your output of the new setup you're putting on there. I have all the part numbers of the parts I used that ran me a 2.5" from engine to tailpipe if you want them. I was able to put the whole thing together in my driveway.

Some pictures of my install if you'd like. Just keep in mind they took place about half a year apart, so there's some stuff you don't need to deal with.

Exhaust Upgrade pictures

Four Barrel Intake Upgrade pictures

 

Well I went and got some new hardware yesterday. Four hardened steel studs and the rest grade 8 bolts. I'll reuse the original, nasty looking but functional LOL, thick washers like you did. Today I just removed the tranny kickdown linkage because I can't use it anymore. Ran a tap down the manifold holes in the head and spent a fun half hour gasket scraping the head. Better to get it done now than have a vacuum leak.

I won't be able to get back to things until tuesday, but on tuesday I'll at least bolt the manifolds on and probably the truck avenger carb. I'll still need to get the rest of the exhaust all done and rig up an accelerator cable bracket. See if I can reuse the old cable or if I need a Lokar. Yada yada, blah blah. You've already done it. I don't need to tell you.

Maybe before next week is out I'll get this beast a runnin'!