March B/S Thread All welcome
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Given that they are both exterior rated for immersion and free of voids in the core it really comes down to species of the veneers themselves.
Any reputable manufacturer or distributor will be able to provide you with the information and APA testing results for a particular product. (but not the lot information you would get with aircraft rated plywood)
Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
Jim:
Now that I have seen well worn concrete forming plywood, is that variety of plywood available with out the resin impregnated kraft paper and what is it referred to as?
I'm still thinking of the 1 3/8" plywood.
I'm guessing you are going to say ya, marine grade.
Now that I have seen well worn concrete forming plywood, is that variety of plywood available with out the resin impregnated kraft paper and what is it referred to as?
I'm still thinking of the 1 3/8" plywood.
I'm guessing you are going to say ya, marine grade.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 7,649
Likes: 2
From: Wallingford, CT
Or see if you can hit the neighbor with Sassy poo using a piece of equipment other than the snowblower!
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
Commonly known as "Mulit-ply" in the trades, the core veneers are thinner and there are no voids.
Birch would be a good choice for species and States Industries "Appleply" comes up to 1 1/4" thickness in 6, 8 & 10 foot lengths.
Appleply
Birch would be a good choice for species and States Industries "Appleply" comes up to 1 1/4" thickness in 6, 8 & 10 foot lengths.
Appleply
Thanks Jim.
What is its weather rating?
Or that's a no-never-mind because of epoxying all sides after routing out?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
If you were to encapsulate it in two brushed coats of epoxy it essentially becomes a cellulose reinforced epoxy composite. (well, the outer layers and edges)
Once the resin hardens in the pores it can no longer absorb water, and if the moisture content doesn't get above 20-25% it cannot support fungus that eats cellulose like rot and mold.
I like to sift crushed walnut shell polishing media into the wet epoxy for a non-slip surface.
Once the resin hardens in the pores it can no longer absorb water, and if the moisture content doesn't get above 20-25% it cannot support fungus that eats cellulose like rot and mold.
I like to sift crushed walnut shell polishing media into the wet epoxy for a non-slip surface.
Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I roll out a thin coat of epoxy and use a large strainer to apply some old shell from my brass tumbler.
After it hardens and I sweep/vacuum up the excess I roll another very thin coat to make sure it is "sized" like sandpaper and the grit can't be rubbed off.
Good night Dave!
After it hardens and I sweep/vacuum up the excess I roll another very thin coat to make sure it is "sized" like sandpaper and the grit can't be rubbed off.
Good night Dave!
