Battery Cable Lugs?
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Battery Cable Lugs?
So I'm going to be installing an auxiliary fuse block probably with a 100A breaker. So I'm going to be running a 4AWG or 2AWG lead to the battery, and I want to make sure I get a good connection on the lugs.
What do y'all do when you make battery cables? I don't have a cable crimper for wires that big, but I do have a set of barbed wire ferrule crimpers
They are like bolt cutters, but the jaws don't close all the way and are blunted. Can I use those for a nice solid crimp?
Also I was thinking about soldering the joints once I got it crimped (just to make sure there aren't any air pockets to increase resistance) Is that a good idea? In the same vein, I was gonna use tinned marine wire to help prevent corrosion, that wont hurt anything will it?
thanks!
What do y'all do when you make battery cables? I don't have a cable crimper for wires that big, but I do have a set of barbed wire ferrule crimpers
They are like bolt cutters, but the jaws don't close all the way and are blunted. Can I use those for a nice solid crimp?
Also I was thinking about soldering the joints once I got it crimped (just to make sure there aren't any air pockets to increase resistance) Is that a good idea? In the same vein, I was gonna use tinned marine wire to help prevent corrosion, that wont hurt anything will it?
thanks!
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
I would use store bought battery cables, and tie your 100 amp circuit to the large solenoid connection on the fender mounted starter solenoid(relay). So all you have to crimp are the 100 amp cables.
I have access to the official crimpers, so I use them. But there have been cases were I didn't have them, and I have used a torch and soldered them without crimping, and I have also used a old vise I had laying around. I ground v-notches in the middle of the vise jaws on both sides, and used that to crimp the connector.
If you look at the official crimpers, they do not just smash the connector flat onto the wire. The jaws of the crimper(they have several sets that you install) match the size of the connector and the wire. It squeezes the connector around the wire, and the excess connector material is pinched outward out of the way. So it actually shrinks the connector around the wire.
I have access to the official crimpers, so I use them. But there have been cases were I didn't have them, and I have used a torch and soldered them without crimping, and I have also used a old vise I had laying around. I ground v-notches in the middle of the vise jaws on both sides, and used that to crimp the connector.
If you look at the official crimpers, they do not just smash the connector flat onto the wire. The jaws of the crimper(they have several sets that you install) match the size of the connector and the wire. It squeezes the connector around the wire, and the excess connector material is pinched outward out of the way. So it actually shrinks the connector around the wire.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 420
Likes: 19
this tool is what you need to get a good electrical connection or one like it
Welding Cable Lug Crimper Hammer Style | Fastenal
Welding Cable Lug Crimper Hammer Style | Fastenal
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 673
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From: Maryland
Here's a pic of my home-brewed crimper. I made it with some scrap angle and the MIG. Bench vise provides the crimping force. PS. Sorry about the links, looks like the gallery pic issue really isn't "FIXED" yet...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...210768&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...210770&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...210768&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...210770&width=0
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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Thanks guys!
Seems like I'll probably just take the cables to a audio install or marine shop or something to have them crimped there. For a small amp ciruit, I wouldn't worry, but 100A is a lot of juice.
Bern_f150_4x4, wow, tool looks nice. Unfortunately, I don't have a welder, so thats kind of off limits for me, but looks good!
Franklin2,
I'm not going to be installing the cables on my Ford (its for my Xterra) but whats the advantage of wiring to the solenoid instead of tying directly into the battery (I plan on putting in a big 100A circuit breaker on the line)? My plan was to to install it to the battery terminal something like this (this isn't my vehicle)
That should work fine right?
Seems like I'll probably just take the cables to a audio install or marine shop or something to have them crimped there. For a small amp ciruit, I wouldn't worry, but 100A is a lot of juice.
Bern_f150_4x4, wow, tool looks nice. Unfortunately, I don't have a welder, so thats kind of off limits for me, but looks good!
Franklin2,
I'm not going to be installing the cables on my Ford (its for my Xterra) but whats the advantage of wiring to the solenoid instead of tying directly into the battery (I plan on putting in a big 100A circuit breaker on the line)? My plan was to to install it to the battery terminal something like this (this isn't my vehicle)
That should work fine right?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
With the solenoid, you can cut off the flow. Think of a solenoid like a huge relay, when a small current is passed across the two small terminals, the big (I've seen them up to 200A) terminals connect. I'm not sure why he wants you to disconnect the aux block, but they are handy in multiple battery and circuits you only want live when the ignition is on (like a winch or stereo)
You can notch those crimpers you have to make a decent wire crimper. I used one similar in school for 1/0 and 4ga wire. It looked like a non-insulated crimper jaw just much larger with the compounding arms of chain cutters. V notch the lower jaw slightly, then remove enough material to form a V in the other side.
You can notch those crimpers you have to make a decent wire crimper. I used one similar in school for 1/0 and 4ga wire. It looked like a non-insulated crimper jaw just much larger with the compounding arms of chain cutters. V notch the lower jaw slightly, then remove enough material to form a V in the other side.
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Elder User
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With the solenoid, you can cut off the flow. Think of a solenoid like a huge relay, when a small current is passed across the two small terminals, the big (I've seen them up to 200A) terminals connect. I'm not sure why he wants you to disconnect the aux block, but they are handy in multiple battery and circuits you only want live when the ignition is on (like a winch or stereo)
You can notch those crimpers you have to make a decent wire crimper. I used one similar in school for 1/0 and 4ga wire. It looked like a non-insulated crimper jaw just much larger with the compounding arms of chain cutters. V notch the lower jaw slightly, then remove enough material to form a V in the other side.
You can notch those crimpers you have to make a decent wire crimper. I used one similar in school for 1/0 and 4ga wire. It looked like a non-insulated crimper jaw just much larger with the compounding arms of chain cutters. V notch the lower jaw slightly, then remove enough material to form a V in the other side.
I understand the purpose of a solenoid, but I want some of the circuits hot all the time. So I think the compromise is to use one of these
That way, if i need to completely isolate everything I can do so (its a switch) but its also a breaker which would be nice to keep everything from explodin' on me if something weird happens. All the loads that I want ignition only are gonna have their own relays (lights, etc...) so I think what I'll do is just tap an ignition only wire as part of the relay circuit.
I was just confused why Franklin2 wanted me to tie into the starter solenoid
"I would use store bought battery cables, and tie your 100 amp circuit to the large solenoid connection on the fender mounted starter solenoid(relay). So all you have to crimp are the 100 amp cables. "
I wish I could cut up those ferrule crimpers, but unfortunately, I need 'em for barbed wire fence mendin'.
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
I wouldn't use an auto reset breaker. While nice in theory, the problem is, if you short a wire out, the breaker will keep resetting itself. With a manual reset breaker, you'll know when you have a problem.
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From: Virginia
I was just confused why Franklin2 wanted me to tie into the starter solenoid
"I would use store bought battery cables, and tie your 100 amp circuit to the large solenoid connection on the fender mounted starter solenoid(relay). So all you have to crimp are the 100 amp cables. "
"I would use store bought battery cables, and tie your 100 amp circuit to the large solenoid connection on the fender mounted starter solenoid(relay). So all you have to crimp are the 100 amp cables. "
When I install snowplows, I hook them to the + solenoid post.
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I thought you were making whole new battery cables to accomodate your new 100 amp wire. If you have a solenoid on the fender like most Fords do, the battery + runs right over to the solenoid post, and there is usually room there to add another crimped ring terminal for your added circuit. It sometimes doesn't work very well to try and bolt the new ring terminal to the battery +, especially if you have a side terminal battery. If you have a top terminal battery, sometimes you can put the terminal under the pinch bolt, but sometimes you have to get a longer bolt and add a spacer to make it work. I see in your picture above, they have some sort of adapter splitter that hooks to the battery post.
When I install snowplows, I hook them to the + solenoid post.
When I install snowplows, I hook them to the + solenoid post.
I guess the only caveat when hooking to the solenoid is to make sure that the run from the battery to the solenoid is big enough to cary the rated amps for the car and the extra circuit. Thanks again!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 26,898
Likes: 3
From: southern md
Here's a pic of my home-brewed crimper. I made it with some scrap angle and the MIG. Bench vise provides the crimping force. PS. Sorry about the links, looks like the gallery pic issue really isn't "FIXED" yet...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...210768&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...210770&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...210768&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...210770&width=0
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