Wiring 101
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|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,536
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From: Schweinfurt Germany
Wiring 101
WIRING IS YOUR FRIEND!...
ONCE you learn to deal with it on the correct terms..
TOOLS!
When you switch from 'Mechanical' to 'Electrical', you will loose all common sense.
(ask me how I know that...
)
You will use the same side cuts you have been lopping of small bolts with, cutting cotter keys, safety wire, ect. and then wonder why they aren't working for small gauge copper wire... :drool:
ignore the fact that this says Jeep a lot just replace the thought with Ford tha vast majority of the information holds true across all forms of wiring just slightly different connectors.
=====================================
GET SOME DEDICATED WIRING TOOLS, USE THEM FOR 'WIRING ONLY'.
'ALL IN ONE' tools SUCK ROCKS.
Don't bother, I've tried about all of them down though the years, and NONE of them work 'Correctly'.
I paid a TON of money for that 'CAT' tool at the bottom or I would have thrown it out long ago,
Now it's my 'Lend Out' and 'Trial' tool...
If it disappears, I won't miss it...
The two at the top are 'Pretty Good' with the little one in the middle being 'Exceptional' for what it does...
WIRE CUTTER.
The 'Problem' with wire cutters at the very front of the tool nose is the jaws get bent, and the cutters don't work well after that.
The 'Problem' with wire cutters between the handles is that's a Awkward place to put cutter/crimper since you have to drop a handle and try to hold the wire in place, get the handles around the wire, and line everything up to get a clean cut.
When a wire is in a bundle or back in a hole someplace, it's virtually impossible to get a good, clean, square cut or crimp.
CRIMPERS.
Same with crimpers between handles,
And when crimpers are BEHIND the pivot, you loose a lot of leverage,
Add the leverage loss with bad positioning, and it's a good way to have a crimp fail.
STRIPPERS.
Same as cutters and crimpers, when it's behind the pivot, between handles, it's VERY Awkward to use.
---------------------------------------------------
Like most everything 'Channel Lock' makes, this is an EXCELLENT design for Cutters/Crimpers, and I can't recommend these highly enough.
Mine see CONSTANT SERVICE, and this pair is about 10 or 12 years old, and still works GREAT.
I have a 'Shop' pair and a 'Trail' pair, this is the 'Trail' pair, and they have done a GREAT job on those larger crimp terminals we use a lot of on Jeeps.
-----------------------------------------
This is a GREAT combo for both small and large work on normal 'Crimp' connectors,
BUT,
If you are going to take on a Harness Project,
Then something like this for a Crimper is recommended,
It has replaceable jaws to do Ignition Wires, common crimp terminals, or even factory crimp (non-Insulated) terminals.
It has a ratchet built in, compound leverage so you don't have kill yourself on the handles, and it has positive stops that let you know when you have reached the correct crush on the connectors.
With the 'Correct' Jaw sets, you can EXACTLY REPRODUCE most 'Factory Crimps' with little effort.
-----------------------------------------------
THIS IS A 'FACTORY CRIMP' Tool, A 'Cheap' version from 'Radio Shack', and it will reproduce the factor crimps on connectors with 'Tails' that dig into both the wire and the insulation.
It's REALLY handy for a guy building a harness from scratch that DOES NOT want those big, ugly, failure prone crimps from the color coded insulated terminals everyone is so fond of...
These Jaws provide that 'Factory Crimp' that we are looking for,
----------------------------------------------
Last, but not Least, Are the
LARGE GAUGE CUTTING TOOLS...
When you get above about 10 Ga. wire, these tools will make you life SO MUCH EASIER!
The Cutting Jaws on these tools WILL NOT deflect, bend, flex, ect,
And they will give you a good, clean cut on COPPER CABLE used for winches, batteries, ect. where the cutters shown above are useless for this large gauge stuff...
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF TOOLS GET YOUR MOTOR RUNNING
And you want them to work AS ADVERTISED, THE FIRST TIME, EVERY TIME...
Then check out these sites!
Stripper,
CHANNELLOCK Wire Strippers
Crimper,
CHANNELLOCK Crimper
Cable Cutter,
911 Cutting Plier
Factory Crimp Tool,
OEM Ratchet Crimping Tool
Crimpers, Selection,
Wire Crimper Tools
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
TAKING TERMINALS APART...
Most people have no idea you can take most of the factory 'Jeep' CONNECTORS apart,
Replace the TERMINAL and the WIRE with new,
Reassemble the TERMINALS in the CONNECTOR, and have brand new WIRING and TERMINALS in the FACTORY CONNECTOR...
This is a 'CONNECTOR TOOL', and it will take most 'Factory' Connectors apart so you can get at the TERMINALS & WIRE...
It's not hard to get the fire wall Bulk Head connector terminals out, or the headlight connectors apart (shown below) and replace the terminals and wire with something that does the job better than the factory wiring...
And you get rid of all the POs 'Cut & Splice' work at the same time...
============================================
While we are on the subject of 'Terminals',
(Terminal = To Terminate The Wiring Run,
There will be 'Termination' of the wire on BOTH ends)
TERMINALS,
FACTORY CRIMP TERMINALS require a 'Factory Crimp Terminal Tool', like the one shown above, (Come with screw driver type handles also...)
You can't do 'Factory Crimp' terminals with one of those 'One Size Fits Nothing' tubing crimpers...
You must have a tool that bends the 'Tails' into the insulation and the wire conductor...
As you can see, you don't have to get 'Strip Happy' when doing factory style terminals on your wires.
FIRST CRIMP DONE. Tails go into the 'Arch' side of the crimper, and they get folded over back onto the connector.
Second Crimp Done, Factory Style Crimp Complete, this terminal is ready to get pushed back into the Factory Connector.
-----------------------------------------------------
WHEN YOU SEE 'SPLICE' IN A WIRING DIAGRAM...
IT'S PERFECTLY ACCEPTABLE TO HAVE THE 'SPLICE' AT THE TERMINAL INSTEAD IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WIRING RUN SOMEPLACE...
Strip a little extra insulation off the wires, and crimp them together in the connector.
VERY large wires WILL NOT fit in these little factory style crimp terminals,
But smaller wires crimp very nicely together and save you from having to break insulation in the middle of a wiring run for a 'Splice'...
ONCE you learn to deal with it on the correct terms..
TOOLS!
When you switch from 'Mechanical' to 'Electrical', you will loose all common sense.
(ask me how I know that...
)You will use the same side cuts you have been lopping of small bolts with, cutting cotter keys, safety wire, ect. and then wonder why they aren't working for small gauge copper wire... :drool:
ignore the fact that this says Jeep a lot just replace the thought with Ford tha vast majority of the information holds true across all forms of wiring just slightly different connectors.
=====================================
GET SOME DEDICATED WIRING TOOLS, USE THEM FOR 'WIRING ONLY'.
'ALL IN ONE' tools SUCK ROCKS.
Don't bother, I've tried about all of them down though the years, and NONE of them work 'Correctly'.
I paid a TON of money for that 'CAT' tool at the bottom or I would have thrown it out long ago,
Now it's my 'Lend Out' and 'Trial' tool...
If it disappears, I won't miss it...
The two at the top are 'Pretty Good' with the little one in the middle being 'Exceptional' for what it does...
WIRE CUTTER.
The 'Problem' with wire cutters at the very front of the tool nose is the jaws get bent, and the cutters don't work well after that.
The 'Problem' with wire cutters between the handles is that's a Awkward place to put cutter/crimper since you have to drop a handle and try to hold the wire in place, get the handles around the wire, and line everything up to get a clean cut.
When a wire is in a bundle or back in a hole someplace, it's virtually impossible to get a good, clean, square cut or crimp.
CRIMPERS.
Same with crimpers between handles,
And when crimpers are BEHIND the pivot, you loose a lot of leverage,
Add the leverage loss with bad positioning, and it's a good way to have a crimp fail.
STRIPPERS.
Same as cutters and crimpers, when it's behind the pivot, between handles, it's VERY Awkward to use.
---------------------------------------------------
Like most everything 'Channel Lock' makes, this is an EXCELLENT design for Cutters/Crimpers, and I can't recommend these highly enough.
Mine see CONSTANT SERVICE, and this pair is about 10 or 12 years old, and still works GREAT.
I have a 'Shop' pair and a 'Trail' pair, this is the 'Trail' pair, and they have done a GREAT job on those larger crimp terminals we use a lot of on Jeeps.
-----------------------------------------
This is a GREAT combo for both small and large work on normal 'Crimp' connectors,
BUT,
If you are going to take on a Harness Project,
Then something like this for a Crimper is recommended,
It has replaceable jaws to do Ignition Wires, common crimp terminals, or even factory crimp (non-Insulated) terminals.
It has a ratchet built in, compound leverage so you don't have kill yourself on the handles, and it has positive stops that let you know when you have reached the correct crush on the connectors.
With the 'Correct' Jaw sets, you can EXACTLY REPRODUCE most 'Factory Crimps' with little effort.
-----------------------------------------------
THIS IS A 'FACTORY CRIMP' Tool, A 'Cheap' version from 'Radio Shack', and it will reproduce the factor crimps on connectors with 'Tails' that dig into both the wire and the insulation.
It's REALLY handy for a guy building a harness from scratch that DOES NOT want those big, ugly, failure prone crimps from the color coded insulated terminals everyone is so fond of...
These Jaws provide that 'Factory Crimp' that we are looking for,
----------------------------------------------
Last, but not Least, Are the
LARGE GAUGE CUTTING TOOLS...
When you get above about 10 Ga. wire, these tools will make you life SO MUCH EASIER!
The Cutting Jaws on these tools WILL NOT deflect, bend, flex, ect,
And they will give you a good, clean cut on COPPER CABLE used for winches, batteries, ect. where the cutters shown above are useless for this large gauge stuff...
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF TOOLS GET YOUR MOTOR RUNNING
And you want them to work AS ADVERTISED, THE FIRST TIME, EVERY TIME...
Then check out these sites!
Stripper,
CHANNELLOCK Wire Strippers
Crimper,
CHANNELLOCK Crimper
Cable Cutter,
911 Cutting Plier
Factory Crimp Tool,
OEM Ratchet Crimping Tool
Crimpers, Selection,
Wire Crimper Tools
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
TAKING TERMINALS APART...
Most people have no idea you can take most of the factory 'Jeep' CONNECTORS apart,
Replace the TERMINAL and the WIRE with new,
Reassemble the TERMINALS in the CONNECTOR, and have brand new WIRING and TERMINALS in the FACTORY CONNECTOR...
This is a 'CONNECTOR TOOL', and it will take most 'Factory' Connectors apart so you can get at the TERMINALS & WIRE...
It's not hard to get the fire wall Bulk Head connector terminals out, or the headlight connectors apart (shown below) and replace the terminals and wire with something that does the job better than the factory wiring...
And you get rid of all the POs 'Cut & Splice' work at the same time...
============================================
While we are on the subject of 'Terminals',
(Terminal = To Terminate The Wiring Run,
There will be 'Termination' of the wire on BOTH ends)
TERMINALS,
FACTORY CRIMP TERMINALS require a 'Factory Crimp Terminal Tool', like the one shown above, (Come with screw driver type handles also...)
You can't do 'Factory Crimp' terminals with one of those 'One Size Fits Nothing' tubing crimpers...
You must have a tool that bends the 'Tails' into the insulation and the wire conductor...
As you can see, you don't have to get 'Strip Happy' when doing factory style terminals on your wires.
FIRST CRIMP DONE. Tails go into the 'Arch' side of the crimper, and they get folded over back onto the connector.
Second Crimp Done, Factory Style Crimp Complete, this terminal is ready to get pushed back into the Factory Connector.
-----------------------------------------------------
WHEN YOU SEE 'SPLICE' IN A WIRING DIAGRAM...
IT'S PERFECTLY ACCEPTABLE TO HAVE THE 'SPLICE' AT THE TERMINAL INSTEAD IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WIRING RUN SOMEPLACE...
Strip a little extra insulation off the wires, and crimp them together in the connector.
VERY large wires WILL NOT fit in these little factory style crimp terminals,
But smaller wires crimp very nicely together and save you from having to break insulation in the middle of a wiring run for a 'Splice'...
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
From: Schweinfurt Germany
Most Vehicles use the smallest possible wiring they can get away with, and this leads to trouble...
When you swap out 'Jeep' wiring it's ALWAYS a good idea to go one wire gauge size 'UP',
For instance,
If it has a 16 Ga. wire from the factory, use a 14 Ga. wire.
If it has a 14 Ga. wire from the factory, use a 12 Ga. wire.
This will give you extra capacity for things that are 'Old' and aren't working so well,
And it will give you capacity for 'Upgrades' later, like when we swap out blower motors, ignitions, ect.
When you start your wiring project, start at the Fire Wall Bulk Head Connector, or where ever the wiring ORIGINATES,
DO NOT start at the headlights and work backwards, you will only screw yourself in the long run.
Buy your wire on Rolls. 100 Feet of wire is NOT 'Too Much' if you are wiring your entire engine bay, and it's not going to be nearly enough if you are wiring the entire Jeep!
Buy up COLOR COMBINATIONS when you stumble onto them, having a Primary Color With a 'Trace' stripe is ALWAYS a good thing!
I never walk past odd ball colors in 12 or 14 Ga.,
AND,
I never walk past 'Common Colors' when they have a 'Trace Stripe' to help me with identification.
And I never walk past 10 Ga. with a 'Trace' stripe, no matter what the 'Trace' color is...
With the exception of under dash, I usually don't buy up anything smaller than 14 or 16 Ga.
That gets you right back to having too small of wire gauge really quickly...
==============================================
Some Examples,
10 Ga. 'RED', ... 'HOT' full time.
Starter Relay to Fuse block,
Starter Relay to Alternator 'BAT' terminal,
Starter Relay to Headlight Relays.
Starter Relay to Air Compressor Relay.
Starter Relay to Off Road Lights Relay.
Starter Relay to Electric Radiator Fan Relay.
10 Ga. 'RED' With a 'Stripe' (Red w/Trace)
Ignition Switch to Ignition. The Stripe (Trace) indicates that wire is 'Switched' and not full time 'Hot'
Headlights AFTER the relays. Relays are the 'Switch'.
Off Road Lights AFTER the power relay or switch to the lights.
Fan power AFTER the relay.
Different Stripe (Trace) colors can be used to identify which circuit you are looking at in the harness.
Green for Fan,
Blue for Lights,
White for Ignition, ect.
Same with smaller sizes of wire...
=============================================
TRICKS, TIPS, STUFF TO KEEP YOU STRAIGHT....
There are SEVERAL ways to color code your wires,
Or you can just get a label maker and label every wire for EXACTLY what it is and where it goes!
When I'm working with 'Bundles' that need to be separated, but are going back into a common bundle when I'm done,
I use the cheap color coded 'Zip Ties', one two or even three on the bundles will give you all the differentiation you need between which bundle is for the head lights, which bundle is for the ignition, which bundle is for whatever,
And when you get ready to bundle everything together, you can clip them off, or leave them in the larger bundle, doesn't matter.
I find these things REALLY HANDY when I'm working on Jeeps in particular.
The Grill Support Rods make a GREAT place to work from when you are sorting out a harness, and these things are removable, reusable, and easy to add or take wires out of when working.
If you have PERMANENT wires that might be confused with something else the same colors,
Then it's pretty easy to slip some bands of heat shrink over the wires and heat shrink them into place so they stay with the wires...
The bands shown are a little long, that's so they show up in the photographs easier...
This is PARTICULARLY HANDY for the wires at the starter relay, since there will be several,
This will tell you which Wire/Fusible Link feeds the Fuse Block, the Alternator, The Off Road Lights, the Fan Wiring, ect.
Combine a 'Zip Tie' with a Heat Shrink Band(s), and you really have a way to keep things straight.
=============================================
FUSIBLE LINKS.
FUSIBLE LINKS are used to supply NON CRITICAL/HIGH LOAD devices,
Especially when the load might shoot way up for a second or two, then level back off to 'Normal'.
The factory uses two on every Jeep, One for the feed to the fuse block,
One for the feed to the alternator.
I use them to feed relays for my off road lights, electric fan, air compressor, heavy load accessories that isn't the end of the world if they quit working.
Cycling loads, like a fan starting up can draw MUCH more amperage than you think, and by using a Fusible Link instead of a Set Amperage Fuse or Breaker,
The Fusible Link allows for a sudden current draw spike that levels out...
Fusible Links like the one pictured can be identified by the Plastic or Rubber 'Block' at the Ring Terminal where they connect to the battery cable side of the Starter Relay.
Fusible Links are a special blend of metals, Silver, Tin, Lead, ect.
And they are the Ultimate in 'Slow Blow' fuses.
They will allow for short term 'Over Load', like when the alternator is trying to charge a low battery,
Or when you have every electrical device on the vehicle fired up at once...
The Fusible Link can easily handle the Choke, Manifold Heater, Headlights, Blower Motor, Windshield Wipers and everything else fired up at once,
And the Fusible Link at the Starter Relay Battery Cable connection protects the Primary Wire to the Fuse Block & Head Lights from getting overloaded, rubbed through, melted or pinched and grounded out.
============================================
HARDWARE.
A Link to connector types and service.
http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/auto...connectors.htm
This is the 'Male' Side of most factory connectors.
REPLACEMENTS: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS p/n CG8
Combined with the females, You can rebuild most factory connectors with new terminals and new wires...
REPLACEMENTS: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS p/n CG7
And I NEVER walk by a factory connector when it's still in pretty good shape...
When you need that odd ball connector for something, It's REALLY nice to be able to build EXACTLY what you want!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
YOUR BULK HEAD CONNECTORS WILL BE PACKARD 59 CONNECTORS,
Slightly larger than the Packard 56 connectors shown above to better handle 10 Ga. wires.
Same 1/4" (0.250") blade width, but slightly longer contact surface area.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Another variation is the Packard 58 Female connector,
The rolled sides are there to cut through corrosion and make positive contact instead of the 'Constant Tension' type 'Spring' the Packard 56 & 59 Female terminals use.
The rolled sides of the connector are what we are used to seeing with Generic 'Barrel Crimp' connectors you are so used to seeing everywhere...
The 'Rolled Sides' sometimes make the connector a little 'Thick',
These sometimes won't fit in a standard Packard 56/59 female connector housing, so be aware of that.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
FUSE BLOCKS, INSERT BREAKERS.
For the guys wanting to add some extra Circuits and Current carrying capacity for lights, fans, air compressors, ect.
This makes a VERY handy way to add that capacity.
It's a 6 slot fuse block, dirt cheap and available anywhere.
Add some Insert Circuit breakers to the mix, instead of blade type fuses,
And you wind up with a 'Fuse Block' that has self resetting circuit breakers!
No more getting out in the mud, rain, ect. to fix that stupid 'In Line' fuse that came with your off road lights, air compressor, ect.
When you swap out 'Jeep' wiring it's ALWAYS a good idea to go one wire gauge size 'UP',
For instance,
If it has a 16 Ga. wire from the factory, use a 14 Ga. wire.
If it has a 14 Ga. wire from the factory, use a 12 Ga. wire.
This will give you extra capacity for things that are 'Old' and aren't working so well,
And it will give you capacity for 'Upgrades' later, like when we swap out blower motors, ignitions, ect.
When you start your wiring project, start at the Fire Wall Bulk Head Connector, or where ever the wiring ORIGINATES,
DO NOT start at the headlights and work backwards, you will only screw yourself in the long run.
Buy your wire on Rolls. 100 Feet of wire is NOT 'Too Much' if you are wiring your entire engine bay, and it's not going to be nearly enough if you are wiring the entire Jeep!
Buy up COLOR COMBINATIONS when you stumble onto them, having a Primary Color With a 'Trace' stripe is ALWAYS a good thing!
I never walk past odd ball colors in 12 or 14 Ga.,
AND,
I never walk past 'Common Colors' when they have a 'Trace Stripe' to help me with identification.
And I never walk past 10 Ga. with a 'Trace' stripe, no matter what the 'Trace' color is...
With the exception of under dash, I usually don't buy up anything smaller than 14 or 16 Ga.
That gets you right back to having too small of wire gauge really quickly...
==============================================
Some Examples,
10 Ga. 'RED', ... 'HOT' full time.
Starter Relay to Fuse block,
Starter Relay to Alternator 'BAT' terminal,
Starter Relay to Headlight Relays.
Starter Relay to Air Compressor Relay.
Starter Relay to Off Road Lights Relay.
Starter Relay to Electric Radiator Fan Relay.
10 Ga. 'RED' With a 'Stripe' (Red w/Trace)
Ignition Switch to Ignition. The Stripe (Trace) indicates that wire is 'Switched' and not full time 'Hot'
Headlights AFTER the relays. Relays are the 'Switch'.
Off Road Lights AFTER the power relay or switch to the lights.
Fan power AFTER the relay.
Different Stripe (Trace) colors can be used to identify which circuit you are looking at in the harness.
Green for Fan,
Blue for Lights,
White for Ignition, ect.
Same with smaller sizes of wire...
=============================================
TRICKS, TIPS, STUFF TO KEEP YOU STRAIGHT....
There are SEVERAL ways to color code your wires,
Or you can just get a label maker and label every wire for EXACTLY what it is and where it goes!
When I'm working with 'Bundles' that need to be separated, but are going back into a common bundle when I'm done,
I use the cheap color coded 'Zip Ties', one two or even three on the bundles will give you all the differentiation you need between which bundle is for the head lights, which bundle is for the ignition, which bundle is for whatever,
And when you get ready to bundle everything together, you can clip them off, or leave them in the larger bundle, doesn't matter.
I find these things REALLY HANDY when I'm working on Jeeps in particular.
The Grill Support Rods make a GREAT place to work from when you are sorting out a harness, and these things are removable, reusable, and easy to add or take wires out of when working.
If you have PERMANENT wires that might be confused with something else the same colors,
Then it's pretty easy to slip some bands of heat shrink over the wires and heat shrink them into place so they stay with the wires...
The bands shown are a little long, that's so they show up in the photographs easier...
This is PARTICULARLY HANDY for the wires at the starter relay, since there will be several,
This will tell you which Wire/Fusible Link feeds the Fuse Block, the Alternator, The Off Road Lights, the Fan Wiring, ect.
Combine a 'Zip Tie' with a Heat Shrink Band(s), and you really have a way to keep things straight.
=============================================
FUSIBLE LINKS.
FUSIBLE LINKS are used to supply NON CRITICAL/HIGH LOAD devices,
Especially when the load might shoot way up for a second or two, then level back off to 'Normal'.
The factory uses two on every Jeep, One for the feed to the fuse block,
One for the feed to the alternator.
I use them to feed relays for my off road lights, electric fan, air compressor, heavy load accessories that isn't the end of the world if they quit working.
Cycling loads, like a fan starting up can draw MUCH more amperage than you think, and by using a Fusible Link instead of a Set Amperage Fuse or Breaker,
The Fusible Link allows for a sudden current draw spike that levels out...
Fusible Links like the one pictured can be identified by the Plastic or Rubber 'Block' at the Ring Terminal where they connect to the battery cable side of the Starter Relay.
Fusible Links are a special blend of metals, Silver, Tin, Lead, ect.
And they are the Ultimate in 'Slow Blow' fuses.
They will allow for short term 'Over Load', like when the alternator is trying to charge a low battery,
Or when you have every electrical device on the vehicle fired up at once...
The Fusible Link can easily handle the Choke, Manifold Heater, Headlights, Blower Motor, Windshield Wipers and everything else fired up at once,
And the Fusible Link at the Starter Relay Battery Cable connection protects the Primary Wire to the Fuse Block & Head Lights from getting overloaded, rubbed through, melted or pinched and grounded out.
============================================
HARDWARE.
A Link to connector types and service.
http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/auto...connectors.htm
This is the 'Male' Side of most factory connectors.
REPLACEMENTS: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS p/n CG8
Combined with the females, You can rebuild most factory connectors with new terminals and new wires...
REPLACEMENTS: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS p/n CG7
And I NEVER walk by a factory connector when it's still in pretty good shape...
When you need that odd ball connector for something, It's REALLY nice to be able to build EXACTLY what you want!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
YOUR BULK HEAD CONNECTORS WILL BE PACKARD 59 CONNECTORS,
Slightly larger than the Packard 56 connectors shown above to better handle 10 Ga. wires.
Same 1/4" (0.250") blade width, but slightly longer contact surface area.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Another variation is the Packard 58 Female connector,
The rolled sides are there to cut through corrosion and make positive contact instead of the 'Constant Tension' type 'Spring' the Packard 56 & 59 Female terminals use.
The rolled sides of the connector are what we are used to seeing with Generic 'Barrel Crimp' connectors you are so used to seeing everywhere...
The 'Rolled Sides' sometimes make the connector a little 'Thick',
These sometimes won't fit in a standard Packard 56/59 female connector housing, so be aware of that.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
FUSE BLOCKS, INSERT BREAKERS.
For the guys wanting to add some extra Circuits and Current carrying capacity for lights, fans, air compressors, ect.
This makes a VERY handy way to add that capacity.
It's a 6 slot fuse block, dirt cheap and available anywhere.
Add some Insert Circuit breakers to the mix, instead of blade type fuses,
And you wind up with a 'Fuse Block' that has self resetting circuit breakers!
No more getting out in the mud, rain, ect. to fix that stupid 'In Line' fuse that came with your off road lights, air compressor, ect.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
From: Schweinfurt Germany
Reading wiring diagrams & Schematics.
Diagrams are different than 'Schematics'.
'DIAGRAMS' are basic drawings to show you where things hook up and where they go.
A 'SCHEMATIC' is a very precise, very technical representation of the electrical circuits, and may, or may not show you were the wiring ACTUALLY GOES, just what the electrical current is supposed to do and what electrical components are in the system...
A 'SCHEMATIC' makes absolutely NO SENSE to anyone that isn't trained in electrical engineering,
So you won't find 'Schematics' on my sites, I don't use them.
==================================================
============================================
The closest thing you will come to a 'Schematic' is a factory wiring diagram...
And they are confusing enough to drive any one crazy!
So lets start there...
*IF*...
You look the wiring diagram over really good, you will find 4 pieces of information for every electrical circuit in the vehicle....
1. Wire Ga. Size.
2. Factory Wire Number In The Harness.
3. Where It Originates From.
4. Where It Terminates.
5. Most Wiring Diagrams Give Color Coding information, but not all.
NOW! THIS LOOKS LIKE A BIG OLD MESS!... BUT IT'S NOT...
========================================
IF YOU SCAN IT, COLOR CODE IT WITH THE WIRING COLORS YOU CAN FIND LOCALLY,
IT WILL LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS...
Makes a LOT more sense this way, and once you scan it, you can even add color banding, from heat shrink or zip ties, and you can change the wire gauge sizes to what you use, ect.
==========================================
HERE IS THE SAME WIRING TRACE THROUGH THE FIRE WALL BULK HEAD CONNECTOR...
Color code the wires you are working with, trace them by number or color,
Then 'Clip' out the rest of what you ARE NOT working on that day...
This keeps the project 'Manageable' and you don't get overrun and feeling overwhelmed.
=========================================
FUNCTION DIAGRAMS.
The battery & light bulb diagrams above are 'Function Diagrams'...
Side marker function is a HUGE source of questions, and there is no way to explain it without a FUNCTION DIAGRAM, and somone on the other end that can understand that FUNCTION DIAGRAM...
FUNCTION DIAGRAMS will show power flow, work done, ect. instead of specific wiring colors.
THIS IS ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF A 'FUNCTION DIAGRAM'...
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
'QUIRKS' IN JEEP WIRING DIAGRAMS.
This is the Brake Warning Lamp Wiring, and the Ignition Switch Connector is UNLABELED in the factory diagrams,
The connection between lines at the COMBINATION SWITCH are NOT shown as connecting...
Why they ran two wires is beyond me, the GM Ignition Switch 'Test Ground' could have been up in the harness behind the fire wall... (See Dash Cluster Diagram 2 Images Up, Corrected Version)
==================================================
84-86 WIRING DIAGRAMS...
84-86 Wiring Diagrams are CRAZY! You guys have your work cut out for you!
================================================
GROUNDS.
=================================================
WIRING DIAGRAM TEMPLATES.
These are links to basic wiring templates you can down load and practice on.
Open the links, Right Click 'Copy Image',
Then open with MS Paint on your computer.
In MS Paint, Left side tool bar,
Click the top right tool (a little box)
Then Right Click in the main window and click 'Paste',
Draw in your own wiring, components, ect.
I've left you some Breakers, Fuses, Relays, Ect. In the center of the template you can copy if you need them,
Clip out of you don't...
LINK: BASIC EXTERIOR LIGHTING TEMPLATE,
EXAMPLE: HEADLIGHTS ON RELAYS.
EXAMPLE: OFF ROAD LIGHTS ON RELAYS.
LINK: BASIC STARTING, CHARGING, IGNITION TEMPLATE,
EXAMPLE: IGNITION, CHARGING, STARTING CIRCUITS,
Diagrams are different than 'Schematics'.
'DIAGRAMS' are basic drawings to show you where things hook up and where they go.
A 'SCHEMATIC' is a very precise, very technical representation of the electrical circuits, and may, or may not show you were the wiring ACTUALLY GOES, just what the electrical current is supposed to do and what electrical components are in the system...
A 'SCHEMATIC' makes absolutely NO SENSE to anyone that isn't trained in electrical engineering,
So you won't find 'Schematics' on my sites, I don't use them.
==================================================
============================================
The closest thing you will come to a 'Schematic' is a factory wiring diagram...
And they are confusing enough to drive any one crazy!
So lets start there...
*IF*...
You look the wiring diagram over really good, you will find 4 pieces of information for every electrical circuit in the vehicle....
1. Wire Ga. Size.
2. Factory Wire Number In The Harness.
3. Where It Originates From.
4. Where It Terminates.
5. Most Wiring Diagrams Give Color Coding information, but not all.
NOW! THIS LOOKS LIKE A BIG OLD MESS!... BUT IT'S NOT...
========================================
IF YOU SCAN IT, COLOR CODE IT WITH THE WIRING COLORS YOU CAN FIND LOCALLY,
IT WILL LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS...
Makes a LOT more sense this way, and once you scan it, you can even add color banding, from heat shrink or zip ties, and you can change the wire gauge sizes to what you use, ect.
==========================================
HERE IS THE SAME WIRING TRACE THROUGH THE FIRE WALL BULK HEAD CONNECTOR...
Color code the wires you are working with, trace them by number or color,
Then 'Clip' out the rest of what you ARE NOT working on that day...
This keeps the project 'Manageable' and you don't get overrun and feeling overwhelmed.
=========================================
FUNCTION DIAGRAMS.
The battery & light bulb diagrams above are 'Function Diagrams'...
Side marker function is a HUGE source of questions, and there is no way to explain it without a FUNCTION DIAGRAM, and somone on the other end that can understand that FUNCTION DIAGRAM...
FUNCTION DIAGRAMS will show power flow, work done, ect. instead of specific wiring colors.
THIS IS ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF A 'FUNCTION DIAGRAM'...
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
'QUIRKS' IN JEEP WIRING DIAGRAMS.
This is the Brake Warning Lamp Wiring, and the Ignition Switch Connector is UNLABELED in the factory diagrams,
The connection between lines at the COMBINATION SWITCH are NOT shown as connecting...
Why they ran two wires is beyond me, the GM Ignition Switch 'Test Ground' could have been up in the harness behind the fire wall... (See Dash Cluster Diagram 2 Images Up, Corrected Version)
==================================================
84-86 WIRING DIAGRAMS...
84-86 Wiring Diagrams are CRAZY! You guys have your work cut out for you!
================================================
GROUNDS.
=================================================
WIRING DIAGRAM TEMPLATES.
These are links to basic wiring templates you can down load and practice on.
Open the links, Right Click 'Copy Image',
Then open with MS Paint on your computer.
In MS Paint, Left side tool bar,
Click the top right tool (a little box)
Then Right Click in the main window and click 'Paste',
Draw in your own wiring, components, ect.
I've left you some Breakers, Fuses, Relays, Ect. In the center of the template you can copy if you need them,
Clip out of you don't...
LINK: BASIC EXTERIOR LIGHTING TEMPLATE,
EXAMPLE: HEADLIGHTS ON RELAYS.
EXAMPLE: OFF ROAD LIGHTS ON RELAYS.
LINK: BASIC STARTING, CHARGING, IGNITION TEMPLATE,
EXAMPLE: IGNITION, CHARGING, STARTING CIRCUITS,
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
From: Schweinfurt Germany
RELAYS.
RELAYS are used when you want to keep the wiring sizes reasonable.
There is no sense in running a highly loaded, 'HOT' 10 Ga. wire through the firewall,
Through a switch that isn't rated for anywhere near the amperage a 10 Ga. wire will conduct,
Then back out the firewall 'Hot' to what ever load might be on the other end.
When the switch is 'ON' the wire is hot both directions, and we all know what happens to wires stuck through holes in the fire wall...
Even if you use a 'Grommet' in the fire wall hole,
Eventually vibration and the weight of the wire will cut through the Grommet and then the wire insulation, and you have a MASSIVE short circuit!
(Excellent time to have a properly sized fuse or fusible link in the correct place!)
A RELAY lets you leave the Large Wires out in the engine bay,
Keep the short so they don't build a lot of resistance in the circuit,
And they keep you MUCH safer by NOT having them running in and out of the firewall,
Plus, a Relay can handle many times what a 'Switch' on the dash can, do it safely, and do it for YEARS without issues.
HOW A RELAY WORKS,
RELAY OPTIONS,
COMMON RELAY APPLICATIONS, WIRING DIAGRAMS,
You can control the "Low Current" switching to the relay, which is what you see above.
The Ignition switch controls the HEI relay low voltage trigger power,
While in this one, the Oil Pressure Switch activates the Low Current power to the Relay,
While the Manifold Temperature Switch controls the 'Ground' to the low voltage side of the Relay.
Oil pressure switch turns it 'On' any time the oil pressure is up,
The Manifold Temp Switch turns it 'Off' when it's not needed.
=================================================
ADVANCED RELAY WIRING.
Since you can control both the 'Activation' Low Current side (85 terminal) and the Low Current 'Ground' side of the activation circuit (86 terminal),
You can do some pretty tricky things with these little Relays!
Electric Fans are one case,
The thermostat controls the Low Current Power,
While you can run one small 'Ground' wire to the dash, run it though a switch, and be able turn the fan 'Off' when you get into deep water or mud which will slow the fan down and burn it up over time...
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
DIODES.
A DIODE is a 'One Way Gate Valve' for electricity.
Current will flow through one direction, but can't reverse.
This is handy to stop one circuit from 'Back Feeding' another circuit when they are hooked up to the same terminal.
A Diode in an Alternator 'Excite' Wire Application,
This replaces the 'Resistor' wire and keeps the 'Excite' terminal from 'Back-Feeding' the ignition system keeping the engine running after you turn the key switch 'Off'...
Diodes also keep your alternator producing in DC current the battery can use,
And not the 'AC' current the 'Alternating Generator' produces current in...
This is a Diode Rectifier from a Delco Remy 10 SI Alternator...
AC goes in, DC comes out, Diodes are wonderful little gadgets!
=================================================
JEEP HARNESSES ARE "SPLICE HAPPY"...
With a little planning, you can reduce those splices, and make your harness more SERVICE FUNCTIONAL at the same time.
Strip a little extra insulation off the wires, and crimp them together in the connector.
VERY large wires WILL NOT fit in these little factory style crimp terminals,
But smaller wires crimp very nicely together and save you from having to break insulation in the middle of a wiring run for a 'Splice'...
And we all know the sockets/terminals rust/corrode out.
(Some Dielectric Grease helps that situation a bunch, just squirt some in under the bulb when you change them out)
Your side fender marker light sockets look like this:
Your Front Marker/Turn looks like this:
Lenghten or shorten the wires on the DISPOSABLE parts, the lamps/sockets, and keep yoru harness from being hacked into a dozen places it doesn't need to cut into.
===============================================
DRIP LOOPS.
This is such a simple concept, it gets right past most people...
A 'DRIP LOOP' is nothing more than a few inches of extra wire, looped, so the loop is 'Down',
And installed just before the wiring 'Goes Into' something or another.
The idea is, harnesses are often mounted higher than the lights, accessories they service.
So any water that condenses or gets splashed on the wires runs right into the Light or Device, causing a lot of corrosion and other problems.
With the 'Drip Loop' in place, you have a little extra wire there for when you need to change terminal ends, bulb sockets, ect.
And the 'Drip Loop' keeps the water from the harness from running directly into your lights, radio, whatever.
An alternative to the 'Drip Loop'...
Believe it or not, the 'Zip Tie' actually helps get the water off the wire bundle faster and more efficiently...
==================================================
TRAILER CABLE.
This is a HEAVY insulation jacket around 16, 14 or 12 Ga. Wire,
You can get it with 4, 6 or 7 Wires commonly.
NAPA carries it, so do most big truck parts place, or you can order it online.
This stuff makes GREAT front to rear long wiring runs that are virtually indestructible.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
SOURCES.... PIECES, PARTS, SUPPLIES...
Reasonable Crimpers for 'OEM' style terminals...
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...ather-Pak.html
PACKARD 56 MALE TERMINALS,
5 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...52d-5-Pcs.html
10 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-10-Pack.html
25 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-25-Pcs.html
50 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-50-Pcs.html
100 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-100-Pcs.html
PACKARD 56 FEMALE TERMINALS,
5 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-5-Pack.html
10 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-10-Pack.html
25 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-25-Pack.html
50 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-50-Pack.html
100 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-100-Pack.html
GENERIC PACKARD 56 Connector Housings,
Male 5 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-5-Pack.html
Male 10 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...ack-of-10.html
Female 5 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-5-Pack.html
Female 25 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-25-Pack.html
Sets (Male & Female) 5 Sets http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Set-of-10.html
PACKARD 58 FEMALE LOCKING CONNECTORS,
(Won't fit in some 'Packard 56' housings)
25 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Terminal.html
50 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-50-Pack.html
100 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-100-Pack.html
------
JEEP STEERING COLUMN KEY SWITCH REPAIR KIT- TILT WHEEL.
NON-ELECTRICAL.
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...epair-Kit.html
--------------------------
NAIL HEAD CONNECTORS, Some Brake Light Switches, Reverse Light Switches, Sensors,
SINGLE, http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
DOUBLE, http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Terminals.html
-----
HEAD LIGHT, H-4 HIGH HEAT CERAMIC CONNECTORS.
Water Boot Ceramic H-4 Connector,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...bber-Boot.html
Ceramic H-4 Headlight Connector-High Heat.
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
H-D Plastic H-4 Connector.
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...am-Repair.html
----
DIMMER SWTICH PLUG,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
----
STARTER RELAY STUD TO MALE SPADE,
10 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Pack-of-5.html
STARTER RELAY PUSH ON BOOT CONNECTOR,
SENSOR PUSH ON BOOT CONNECTOR,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Pigtail-.html
-----
GM HEI Power & Tach Connector Set, Coil In Cap,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Pigtails.html
GM HEI Power & Tach Connector Set, Remote E-Coil Coil,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-and-Gray.html
-----
FORD COIL CONNECTORS.
Canister ('Horseshoe') http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...r-Harness.html
E-Core ('Square') http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...86-and-Up.html
FORD DURASPARK CONNECTORS,
Power 2 Wire, [url]
Control 4 Wire, http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...ly-Models.html
----
DELCO ALTERNTOR,
10 SI Plug (2 wire) http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Regulator.html
CS 'Oval' Plug, YOU NEED A RESISTOR BEFORE YOU CONVERT!
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Terminal.html
CS 'Square' Plug, 4 Wire, YOU NEED A RESISTOR BEFORE YOU CONVERT! http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Pigtail-.html
CS 'Square' Plug, 3 Wire, YOU NEED A RESISTOR BEFORE YOU CONVERT! http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-%252d-90.html
SI to CS ADAPTER- NEEDS RESISTOR BEFORE YOU INSTALL!
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Adaptor-.html
----
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS,
FORD INERTA SWTICH CONNECTOR, (For Electric Fuel Pump Applications)
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
-------------------------------------------------------------
RELAYS.
5 Pin Relay And Socket,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
5 Pin SOCKET ONLY, Works with 4 pin relays...
Also works for 'Do It Yourself' Flashers.
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Terminal.html
GM WATER PROOF RELAY SOCKET,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...placement.html
----
FUSE BLOCKS, BREAKERS...
ATO/ATC Fuse Terminal Connectors,
10 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...s-10-Pack.html
50 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...s-50-Pack.html
4 Fuse Add On Block,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Terminals.html
--------------------------------------
FUEL INJECTION...
GM Module 4 Pin Connector (GBRE)...
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
Works on GM Power/Coil terminal at module,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
MAP Sensor,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rs-Trucks.html
TPS Sensor,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...nd-Trucks.html
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...nd-Trucks.html
IAC Plug,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...njection-.html
O2,
Single Wire,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...r-Pigtail.html
Throttle Body Injector Plug,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
----------------------------------------
WEATHER PROOF, WEATHER PACK CONNECTOR KITS,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...ith-Tools.html
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rage-Tray.html
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...With-Case.html
RELAYS are used when you want to keep the wiring sizes reasonable.
There is no sense in running a highly loaded, 'HOT' 10 Ga. wire through the firewall,
Through a switch that isn't rated for anywhere near the amperage a 10 Ga. wire will conduct,
Then back out the firewall 'Hot' to what ever load might be on the other end.
When the switch is 'ON' the wire is hot both directions, and we all know what happens to wires stuck through holes in the fire wall...
Even if you use a 'Grommet' in the fire wall hole,
Eventually vibration and the weight of the wire will cut through the Grommet and then the wire insulation, and you have a MASSIVE short circuit!
(Excellent time to have a properly sized fuse or fusible link in the correct place!)
A RELAY lets you leave the Large Wires out in the engine bay,
Keep the short so they don't build a lot of resistance in the circuit,
And they keep you MUCH safer by NOT having them running in and out of the firewall,
Plus, a Relay can handle many times what a 'Switch' on the dash can, do it safely, and do it for YEARS without issues.
HOW A RELAY WORKS,
RELAY OPTIONS,
COMMON RELAY APPLICATIONS, WIRING DIAGRAMS,
You can control the "Low Current" switching to the relay, which is what you see above.
The Ignition switch controls the HEI relay low voltage trigger power,
While in this one, the Oil Pressure Switch activates the Low Current power to the Relay,
While the Manifold Temperature Switch controls the 'Ground' to the low voltage side of the Relay.
Oil pressure switch turns it 'On' any time the oil pressure is up,
The Manifold Temp Switch turns it 'Off' when it's not needed.
=================================================
ADVANCED RELAY WIRING.
Since you can control both the 'Activation' Low Current side (85 terminal) and the Low Current 'Ground' side of the activation circuit (86 terminal),
You can do some pretty tricky things with these little Relays!
Electric Fans are one case,
The thermostat controls the Low Current Power,
While you can run one small 'Ground' wire to the dash, run it though a switch, and be able turn the fan 'Off' when you get into deep water or mud which will slow the fan down and burn it up over time...
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
DIODES.
A DIODE is a 'One Way Gate Valve' for electricity.
Current will flow through one direction, but can't reverse.
This is handy to stop one circuit from 'Back Feeding' another circuit when they are hooked up to the same terminal.
A Diode in an Alternator 'Excite' Wire Application,
This replaces the 'Resistor' wire and keeps the 'Excite' terminal from 'Back-Feeding' the ignition system keeping the engine running after you turn the key switch 'Off'...
Diodes also keep your alternator producing in DC current the battery can use,
And not the 'AC' current the 'Alternating Generator' produces current in...
This is a Diode Rectifier from a Delco Remy 10 SI Alternator...
AC goes in, DC comes out, Diodes are wonderful little gadgets!
=================================================
JEEP HARNESSES ARE "SPLICE HAPPY"...
With a little planning, you can reduce those splices, and make your harness more SERVICE FUNCTIONAL at the same time.
Strip a little extra insulation off the wires, and crimp them together in the connector.
VERY large wires WILL NOT fit in these little factory style crimp terminals,
But smaller wires crimp very nicely together and save you from having to break insulation in the middle of a wiring run for a 'Splice'...
And we all know the sockets/terminals rust/corrode out.
(Some Dielectric Grease helps that situation a bunch, just squirt some in under the bulb when you change them out)
Your side fender marker light sockets look like this:
Your Front Marker/Turn looks like this:
Lenghten or shorten the wires on the DISPOSABLE parts, the lamps/sockets, and keep yoru harness from being hacked into a dozen places it doesn't need to cut into.
===============================================
DRIP LOOPS.
This is such a simple concept, it gets right past most people...
A 'DRIP LOOP' is nothing more than a few inches of extra wire, looped, so the loop is 'Down',
And installed just before the wiring 'Goes Into' something or another.
The idea is, harnesses are often mounted higher than the lights, accessories they service.
So any water that condenses or gets splashed on the wires runs right into the Light or Device, causing a lot of corrosion and other problems.
With the 'Drip Loop' in place, you have a little extra wire there for when you need to change terminal ends, bulb sockets, ect.
And the 'Drip Loop' keeps the water from the harness from running directly into your lights, radio, whatever.
An alternative to the 'Drip Loop'...
Believe it or not, the 'Zip Tie' actually helps get the water off the wire bundle faster and more efficiently...
==================================================
TRAILER CABLE.
This is a HEAVY insulation jacket around 16, 14 or 12 Ga. Wire,
You can get it with 4, 6 or 7 Wires commonly.
NAPA carries it, so do most big truck parts place, or you can order it online.
This stuff makes GREAT front to rear long wiring runs that are virtually indestructible.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
SOURCES.... PIECES, PARTS, SUPPLIES...
Reasonable Crimpers for 'OEM' style terminals...
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...ather-Pak.html
PACKARD 56 MALE TERMINALS,
5 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...52d-5-Pcs.html
10 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-10-Pack.html
25 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-25-Pcs.html
50 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-50-Pcs.html
100 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-100-Pcs.html
PACKARD 56 FEMALE TERMINALS,
5 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-5-Pack.html
10 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-10-Pack.html
25 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-25-Pack.html
50 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-50-Pack.html
100 Pcs.http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-100-Pack.html
GENERIC PACKARD 56 Connector Housings,
Male 5 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-5-Pack.html
Male 10 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...ack-of-10.html
Female 5 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...2d-5-Pack.html
Female 25 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-25-Pack.html
Sets (Male & Female) 5 Sets http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Set-of-10.html
PACKARD 58 FEMALE LOCKING CONNECTORS,
(Won't fit in some 'Packard 56' housings)
25 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Terminal.html
50 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...d-50-Pack.html
100 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-100-Pack.html
------
JEEP STEERING COLUMN KEY SWITCH REPAIR KIT- TILT WHEEL.
NON-ELECTRICAL.
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...epair-Kit.html
--------------------------
NAIL HEAD CONNECTORS, Some Brake Light Switches, Reverse Light Switches, Sensors,
SINGLE, http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
DOUBLE, http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Terminals.html
-----
HEAD LIGHT, H-4 HIGH HEAT CERAMIC CONNECTORS.
Water Boot Ceramic H-4 Connector,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...bber-Boot.html
Ceramic H-4 Headlight Connector-High Heat.
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
H-D Plastic H-4 Connector.
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...am-Repair.html
----
DIMMER SWTICH PLUG,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
----
STARTER RELAY STUD TO MALE SPADE,
10 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Pack-of-5.html
STARTER RELAY PUSH ON BOOT CONNECTOR,
SENSOR PUSH ON BOOT CONNECTOR,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Pigtail-.html
-----
GM HEI Power & Tach Connector Set, Coil In Cap,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Pigtails.html
GM HEI Power & Tach Connector Set, Remote E-Coil Coil,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-and-Gray.html
-----
FORD COIL CONNECTORS.
Canister ('Horseshoe') http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...r-Harness.html
E-Core ('Square') http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...86-and-Up.html
FORD DURASPARK CONNECTORS,
Power 2 Wire, [url]
Control 4 Wire, http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...ly-Models.html
----
DELCO ALTERNTOR,
10 SI Plug (2 wire) http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Regulator.html
CS 'Oval' Plug, YOU NEED A RESISTOR BEFORE YOU CONVERT!
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Terminal.html
CS 'Square' Plug, 4 Wire, YOU NEED A RESISTOR BEFORE YOU CONVERT! http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Pigtail-.html
CS 'Square' Plug, 3 Wire, YOU NEED A RESISTOR BEFORE YOU CONVERT! http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-%252d-90.html
SI to CS ADAPTER- NEEDS RESISTOR BEFORE YOU INSTALL!
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Adaptor-.html
----
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS,
FORD INERTA SWTICH CONNECTOR, (For Electric Fuel Pump Applications)
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
-------------------------------------------------------------
RELAYS.
5 Pin Relay And Socket,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
5 Pin SOCKET ONLY, Works with 4 pin relays...
Also works for 'Do It Yourself' Flashers.
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Terminal.html
GM WATER PROOF RELAY SOCKET,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...placement.html
----
FUSE BLOCKS, BREAKERS...
ATO/ATC Fuse Terminal Connectors,
10 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...s-10-Pack.html
50 Pcs. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...s-50-Pack.html
4 Fuse Add On Block,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Terminals.html
--------------------------------------
FUEL INJECTION...
GM Module 4 Pin Connector (GBRE)...
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
Works on GM Power/Coil terminal at module,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
MAP Sensor,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rs-Trucks.html
TPS Sensor,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...nd-Trucks.html
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...nd-Trucks.html
IAC Plug,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...njection-.html
O2,
Single Wire,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...r-Pigtail.html
Throttle Body Injector Plug,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...Connector.html
----------------------------------------
WEATHER PROOF, WEATHER PACK CONNECTOR KITS,
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...ith-Tools.html
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rage-Tray.html
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...With-Case.html
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
From: Schweinfurt Germany
Ok yall I knoiw that was a lot to read and some of you might be confused about the Jeep refrences but this was orignally written for the jeep forums I belong too and I thought I need to share everything with everyone not just my jeep friends.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
From: Schweinfurt Germany
True but I hate heat got burned up in a propane fire back in 09' So I avoid all heat sources that could cause burning if I can
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
FTE Stories
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unless we are grillin and in that dcase I use matchlight so I do not have to use lighter fluid.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Not to interrupt the disagreement already in progress but I'll interject something about solderless connectors, aka crimps..........
In general hey are the second best quick and easy repair/splice for most automotive wiring however that assumes the crimps are properly formed. Not getting into that discussion but the tools shown are probably the worst for this operation. Here's an image of the tool type I've used since the early 70's:
Such tools take much of the guesswork or learning curve out of making acceptable and long-lasting crimped connections. Additionally, the resulting connections are repeatable, insulation is not pierced and in the case of the shown kit a wide range of terminals can be properly formed with the changeable die sets.
The tools shown are okay in an emergency but overall there are better choices if proper and long-lasting connections are of prime concern.
FWIW the kit shown sells for about $80 all over the 'net---its a Tool Aid 18920, Amazon has them all day long.
In general hey are the second best quick and easy repair/splice for most automotive wiring however that assumes the crimps are properly formed. Not getting into that discussion but the tools shown are probably the worst for this operation. Here's an image of the tool type I've used since the early 70's:
Such tools take much of the guesswork or learning curve out of making acceptable and long-lasting crimped connections. Additionally, the resulting connections are repeatable, insulation is not pierced and in the case of the shown kit a wide range of terminals can be properly formed with the changeable die sets.
The tools shown are okay in an emergency but overall there are better choices if proper and long-lasting connections are of prime concern.
FWIW the kit shown sells for about $80 all over the 'net---its a Tool Aid 18920, Amazon has them all day long.