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For what it's worth, I was going to put a 2 core in my 86 (wing style mounts) was told it wouldn't fit... After checking around and replacing the 2 core in son's 89 I found the only difference was in the spacing of the shroud mounting bolts.
Finally got back to the yard today for another radiator support. I found a nice rust free one from a southern truck.
All went well UNTIL I had to try and get the two lower support bolts out that go through the frame. I knew it was going to be tough, but it was a real PITA because the nuts/bolts were rusted solid.
It's a good thing I too a hammer and chisel with me because that was the only way they were coming off. It took quite a bit of persuasion to get them out, but persistence paid off. I was not about the leave without it after taking every other bolt out.
The plan is to spray paint it black and get everything installed this weekend if it doesn't rain.
I just swapped out my single core with double core for my 94-4.9L....It dropped in ok, but the small top shroud would not line up with any holes on the rad. In the end I secured it with a couple of self tappers. Luckily it wasn't the full shroud, or I would have had a lot more trouble I suspect.
I also pulled the front the front clip off my 93 today and the core support bolts were a PITA to say the least. In the end, I managed to cut one side off and the other popped out since it was so rusty. I was just inches away from wrapping a chain around it and ripping it off with my other truck.
Also, the rad on the 93-5.0 was virtually identical to my 94 but reversed and it had the full shroud..
The 80-84 trucks like Stosh's have the rad sitting in the rubbers at the bottom of the rad and clamped down from the top, as can be seen here, truck in the picture is an 81:
I swapped to the later rad(88 460 truck was the donor) in that truck when I put in the heap of a $50 351W that I should never have swapped in...
I simply removed the lower saddles from a rotted out later rad support and either bolted or welded them in place in the existing one(been quite a few years, not 100% sure) and used some good self tapping screws where the factory uses bolts at the top.
I did eventually end up changing the support that that cab and fenders are bolted to, but, a diesel rad just doesn't fit in a gasser core support... LOL
I'll have a look around and see if I still have that support kicking around and grab some pictures of what I did to make things work. I haven't seen it since 05 though.
It's a lot different when you are working at home with torches, air tools, sawzall and power. You can take just about anything apart if you have access to this stuff.
Getting old rusted out radiator support bolts out in the junkyard is a whole other story when you can't use any of the above.
I always take a sharp chisel and hammer just in case. I had to split the nuts off from the top and was able to slide the support out over the studs.
When I get some extra coin, a battery operated sawzall is on my list. It would make stuff like this much easier if you can get in there to cut it off.
The chisel and hammer almost always works, but it's a he'll of a workout and can be very frustrating. I was determined to get it out because it was so nice and the price was right.
Mr 82 F100 SWB - that truck might have been an 81, but where did you find a dual snorkle cleaner to go over that teeny carb neck, or is it something else and a YFA aint sitting under it?
There was a YF under there, that's just a stock air cleaner with a second snorkle off of another stocker added to it.
I do however still have the 4bbl and home built 3x1 intakes I ran on that engine, the 1bbl's fuel economy trumped the 4bbl's performance, and the 3x1 I never did get set up just right.
Battery sawzalls are just fine, dusty is right about battery life for the cheaper models like ryobi, but milwaukee makes a 24 volt cordless that does very well. I also hear good things about Hilti. Guy I worked with had a dewalt cordless 4" grinder that worked fantastic for cutting. Sorry so off topic!
Battery sawzalls are just fine, dusty is right about battery life for the cheaper models like ryobi, but milwaukee makes a 24 volt cordless that does very well. I also hear good things about Hilti. Guy I worked with had a dewalt cordless 4" grinder that worked fantastic for cutting. Sorry so off topic!
I agree ...I'm a general contractor and you get what you pay for. A lot of companies have a DIY line and a professional line. Ryobi for example is the DIY line of power tools...Ryobi also has a pro line...you know it as RIGID brand. Black & Decker's pro line of tools is DeWalt. Milwaukee to the best of my knowledge only make the one line of tools. They are a very good brand as well.
In any event. Rigid is a better line of tools, but their batteries still suck...and I mean big time.
Milwaukee has a decent battery life as does the DeWalt line of tools. Makita is also a good brand to go with.
The most recent battery upgrade has been to the Lithium Ion battery. These are certainly better, and the tools are much lighter. I am not familiar with the cordless line of Hilti tool, but they make nothing but quality tools if you ask me, or any contractor for that matter.
So to sum it up. I think a battery operated reciprocating saw(saws-all) for portability is indeed a good option. I would go with a DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee...in that order. I did not include hilti for the simple reason that I have never tried a cordless Hilti product other than the power actuated tools. Though I suspect that if I did...they would be first on the list. Also I am not sure if the yard would allow it due to insurance reasons, but a small set of oxy/acetelyne torches would also be great.
On a side note....In my area, there are no yards which you can freely roam looking for parts. Again, this is for insurance reasons. I do know of a large yard in Toronto that still allows this, but the 5 hour drive makes in impracticle... I miss the old days.
.. My 2 cents
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