<!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> <!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_start --> <!-- END TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_start --> I have a Carter 1-bl 7460 on my 19?? 240. The truck originally had a 300 but it broke and the previous owner replaced it with the 240.

I have had issues with hard starting after it gets warm. I have to put the pedal to the floor for it to restart, and it has a choppy idle for about 20 seconds after I do a hot restart. Cold starts are perfect, it fires right up and purrs like a kitten.

I decided to do a rebuild on the carb so I had a fellow member on here help me clean it up using his "jewelers" cleaning tub (Thanks, Curtis!)

I bought the rebuild kit (No new float, but the current one in the carb seems pretty new anyways) and I don't know how to adjust it for the 240. Do I need to use my Chilton's manual specs for the 240, or just do the specs for the 300?

Also, can I buy a new float separately? Do I really need one if this one is in good condition?

Also, I couldn't get the 4 screws that hold the throttle body to the bowl assembly out because they were in there TIGHT. Are these usually a huge pain to get out? I am I supposed to remove them? If so, is there any suggestions to loosen them up?

Thanks!

 

Use an angled cabinet screwdriver, or a small drag link socket I belive SK makes them but youd have to order it.

3/8" is your float hight.
1-1/4" float drop.
11/64" fast idle speed adjustment.
5/16" unloader adj.
Automatic choke lists as 1 lean. Idle speed lists as 500rpm.

These are the specs for a 1974 240, the last year they were made. I hope this helps This is from the setting printout in the back of my hygrade carb kit. I wish I could upload the measurment discription images but I've no clue how to. Sounds to me like you have some vapor lock issues. see if your fuel lines are touching the block and if so get them away as your fuel can pickup alot of heat through the hose. Check your automatic choke to see if its operating correctly. Most of my carbed vehicles require I give it throttle to do hot starts at temps above 50f. Its not odd, the rough Idle is.

 

Thanks for the help! I appreciate the data.

I will check the fuel line when I get home. I have a manual choke setup since the automatic kept getting stuck shut and half of the components were missing.

 

You can buy a new float separately. If your float is the original hollow soldered brass type, you should replace it. If it's the black rubber kind, there's nothing wrong with re-using it.

For your last question - the Carter comes in three main pieces, the throttle body assembly (flat plate with the throttle plate), the main body (houses the fuel bowl), and the air horn (top of the carb). All three should separate easily. You have to take them apart because you need to replace the gasket in between each section. Also, the Chem-Dip will eat any gaskets you leave in there. You are using Chem-Dip, aren't you?

 

The float is the hollow brass type, so I guess I will be replacing that. The air horn and main body came apart no problem. The throttle body and main body are a super pain.

I used a few cans of carb cleaner in the "jewelers" cleaning tub from another member. I haven't ever heard of Chem-Dip.

 

Yes carb cleaner, chem-dip, stenesol and all other solvents eat gaskets. You'll need to replace the gasket so get her apart.

I've reused brass floats and had no problom. If it looks bad replace it. If not use it.

 

It's bad practice to seal up a 30 year old carburetor with an original brass float. The reason is, after being bombarded with gasoline for 30 years, the solder can deteroriate. Even a pinhole here can cause the float to fill up with gas, sink, and flood out the carburetor. A float is under 10 dollars, so replace it while you're in there.

Carb cleaner spray is not enough to rebuild a carburetor. You need the yellow gunk that was originally in the cleaning tub. After you soak each "batch" in that stuff, you spray it off with carb spray, and then blow out the internal passages with compressed air. Carb spray alone cannot open up the varnish in the idle circuits.

 

I have a new float on order, $5 and it will be in Saturday morning.

I can't stress enough right now, I CANNOT get the throttle body apart from the main body. They are stuck so bad that I can barely get more that 1/10 of a turn on the screws themselves.

Any hints on how the heck to break this bond? The seal looks good too, its not falling apart.

 

Another quick question, I seemed to have lost the original check ball and check ball weight out of the carb. It may have fell out when I flipped it over, and there may not have been one in there to begin with.

I need the check ball and weight for the carb to function, right? Would it have ran if the previous rebuilder left those 2 pieces out?

 

Mine didn't have the check and check ball when I got it, and I drove it for quite a while until I rebuilt it and found that out. (Probably a couple thousand miles). There should be one in the rebuild kit, but if not, grab one out of a junk yard or something. It'll run without it, but it'll run better with it (which is the whole goal).

I don't know why you're having such a tough time removing the throttle plate. The screws should be just as easy as the top half, which is little to no effort. If they are stuck as bad as you say, something's wrong with the screws. I can't imagine all four of them cross threaded though, that'd be pretty random.

One thing to consider, wobble the throttle shaft up and down. If there's play in it, you'll need to have your throttle plate rebuilt anyway and new throttle bushings put in. If you don't, air will seep in around the throttle linkage and cause vacuum leaks.

 

The "stuckness" of these screws are unbelievable. The top 4 bolt were easy, a quick twist broke all 4 loose. These are just plain ridiculous.

I will check the throttle shaft when I get home, I haven't looked into that yet.

 

Yeah, I'm mentioning that because I was just about going nuts trying to figure out why two rebuilds didn't fix the issues with my carb and finally found out (after I replaced it with another one kindly given to me by Harte3 on this board) that my throttle plate was worn out. Was just sucking air.

Is there a way to maybe get some vice grips to get a hold of those screws and twist them out? I feel your pain on that; projects where everything's going smoothly until something just plain stupid and unexplainable are very annoying. I've had my share. Those screws should be a quick twist, a little pop as they break loose, and then a smooth backing out. Nothing special.

Maybe they were coming out too easy and the PO filled them with lock tight or worse, like JB weld or something? Carter YF 1bbls are known for screws backing out on their own and causing vacuum leaks.

 

That was my thought, JB welded

I know the guy who rebuild the carb, and he has just enough hilbilly in him to do it.

 

That would really suck. You may be better off getting a core from a JY. I think they're usually around $30. Plus you'll have some spare parts in case there's things worn on yours that aren't in the rebuild kit.

Speaking of which, another thing to check: on the throttle plate linkage on the bottom, there's a little arm with two 90 degree bends in it. (Here's a picture)



That arm isn't in any rebuild kits, but it gets grooves in it from rotating after years of use. Nothing'll give you more grief than that piece if it starts to wear. If you have your carb apart (you'll have to remove the throttle plate to get to it), and see that this is grooved, either have the grooves filled and smoothed, or replace it with one that looks good from a parts carb if you can find one.

 

You have to have the check ball and weight, otherwise your accelerator pump will draw in air when it re-primes, which will lean the carburetor out the next time you accelerate.

You have to replace the gasket between the two bottom halves. Try soaking the threads in PB blaster or some other kind of penetrating oil. These screws are very long, so it will take extra force to break them free. It's got to come apart.

Keep in mind, you still haven't cleaned the carburetor properly if all you did was use carb spray.