help with brake rotors!!!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
help with brake rotors!!!
So I found that the PO put on new pads after he scored the hell out of the rotors when I went out to put new pads on today. That explains the squeeking and pulsing. Now my question is, which rotor do I buy?
They show three different ones:
w/ 3,800 lb. Axle
Over 8,500 lb. GVW
4600 Pound Drive Axle
How do I figure out which one I need to pick up? The VIN is 1FTHX26GXSKA54377 if that helps any. I ran the VIN but didn't tell me much about the axle. Maybe I just don't know what I'm looking at for it. It's a 1995 F250 4x4 with a 460. Help please!!!
They show three different ones:
w/ 3,800 lb. Axle
Over 8,500 lb. GVW
4600 Pound Drive Axle
How do I figure out which one I need to pick up? The VIN is 1FTHX26GXSKA54377 if that helps any. I ran the VIN but didn't tell me much about the axle. Maybe I just don't know what I'm looking at for it. It's a 1995 F250 4x4 with a 460. Help please!!!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
I was looking at the dimensions of the rotors and the inner and outer diameters of the rotor and the thickness are different for the three. I'm looking at NAPA but autozone and partsamerica show the same thing.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 263
Likes: 6
From: Blue Ball, PA
If your truck still has the ID or info sticker on the door post, you should see some info on the GVW of the truck. Some F250s are under and some are over 8500lb. GVW. Whatever you buy, don't get the valucaft or cheapest ones, they usually don't last long at all.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Your F-250 either has a Dana 44 HD or a Dana 50 axle, and each uses a different rotor. The hub is much larger on a Dana 50 than a 44 and so the rotors are different.
If your truck is an extended cab, it's a Dana 50. If it's a regular cab with the snowfighter package, it's a Dana 50. All other trucks got the Dana 44HD. If you still don't know, here are pics showing the difference. The Dana 50 hub fills the wheel opening more than the Dana 44 does.
.<a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h48/andymilleville/?action=view¤t=d50-60hub.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h48/andymilleville/d50-60hub.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
.<a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h48/andymilleville/?action=view¤t=D44hub.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h48/andymilleville/D44hub.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Whatever you buy, don't get the valucaft or cheapest ones, they usually don't last long at all.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,109
Likes: 385
From: Southern California
With regards to rotors, I run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated making them almost as hard as stainless steel. For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at CarboTech Engineering can speak to you regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products They have a web site at Carbotech Performance Brakes, but I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application at 877-899-5024 or 704-481-8500.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Fort Worth
I was going to get them from NAPA if those are any good. It's an extended cab so I guess it's a Dana 50. Problem is, I'm fairly handy but don't have stuff to press bearings etc and I just realized as I was pulling the bracket for the caliper off that the rotor and hub are one piece so I guess I'll be taking it to a shop...
Lame.
Lame.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
I was going to get them from NAPA if those are any good. It's an extended cab so I guess it's a Dana 50. Problem is, I'm fairly handy but don't have stuff to press bearings etc and I just realized as I was pulling the bracket for the caliper off that the rotor and hub are one piece so I guess I'll be taking it to a shop...
Lame.
Lame.
If you are interested in doing it yourself, we can definitely help. I know the brakes on these trucks about as well as anyone does.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 263
Likes: 6
From: Blue Ball, PA
My apologies on my earlier errant post. Now that AndyM has jogged my memory about my old F250, I had to go through what you did in changing the rotors and figuring out what I had. I believe I had a Dana 50 as well. I don't remember any major problems changing the rotors, aside from a lot of bearing grease, sweat, and probably a little blood. You will most likely need a "lock nut socket" after you remove the outer lock out hubs.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Fort Worth
I was interested in doing it myself, but I didn't want to screw up any of the bearings or the hubs. The Ford house says 540 bucks which makes me lean more back to doing it myself. I just don't want to mess up anything.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
You will need a pair of snap ring pliers, a pick set comes in handy, the correct allen wrench for the hub screws, the locknut (it can be tough finding one for the Dana 50/60, Napa may or may not have it. See if there is a local shop that deals with heavy duty trucks, they often have the spindle sockets you need.)
I also use a real cheap bearing greaser that I bought from Kragen. It's so much easier than trying to pack the bearings by hand.
This article explains how to replace ball joints, but you can stop when you get the rotor off. I have referred people to it numerous times and it's always helpful: Bronco Ball Joint Replacement - Trucks 4x4 @ Off-Road.com
Don't use too much grease on the bearings. They just need grease inside them, it doesn't need to be everywhere in the hub.
I also use a real cheap bearing greaser that I bought from Kragen. It's so much easier than trying to pack the bearings by hand.
This article explains how to replace ball joints, but you can stop when you get the rotor off. I have referred people to it numerous times and it's always helpful: Bronco Ball Joint Replacement - Trucks 4x4 @ Off-Road.com
Don't use too much grease on the bearings. They just need grease inside them, it doesn't need to be everywhere in the hub.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 263
Likes: 6
From: Blue Ball, PA
Snap ring pliers come to mind, not sure if you need any other specialty tools beyond that. Maybe a good set of long handled channel lock pliers as well. The manuals will also list the tools they reccommend for the job.