help with brake rotors!!!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
So I figured out how to get it all apart but I had another question. It says that when removing the cover over the auto hub, to make sure not to drop the ball bearing or spring and the bearing race. When I pulled the cap off, there was nothing there but the hub body and it slid out after I pulled out the lock ring. Are my hubs screwed up?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
I'm talking about just when the cap is removed. I'll take pictures in a bit. I've got to go combat snow to get a new pair of lockring pliars. Apparently mine got stolen along with most of my other tools out of the truck's toolbox.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
Should the inside of the hub body and the hub and the cam dealio be full of grease? It seems a little excessive since the axle once touches in 2 places. How should I be lubing this thing? Also, behind the cam with the spring wrapped around it, there is a metal half ring with a tab sticking off of it. How is that supposed to be installed? One of them is also bent so I have to go try and find that. I get the feeling they're not going to have it and I NEED the truck tomorrow. Lame...
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,691
Likes: 6
I've scored rotors and just put pads on numerous times without any problems. It doesn't take long for the scoring to vanish. I wouldn't replace the rotos until they wore beyond minimum thickness.
Pulsing is caused when you put things back together and don't make sure all steel-to-steel mating surfaces are clean. All it takes is a small grain of dirt to get between two steel mating surfaces and now things are out of alignment. I always make sure to wire brush all steel mating surfaces til they're shiny before putting things back together. If you keep everything clean, you will have no pulsing.
Pulsing is caused when you put things back together and don't make sure all steel-to-steel mating surfaces are clean. All it takes is a small grain of dirt to get between two steel mating surfaces and now things are out of alignment. I always make sure to wire brush all steel mating surfaces til they're shiny before putting things back together. If you keep everything clean, you will have no pulsing.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
I've scored rotors and just put pads on numerous times without any problems. It doesn't take long for the scoring to vanish. I wouldn't replace the rotos until they wore beyond minimum thickness.
Pulsing is caused when you put things back together and don't make sure all steel-to-steel mating surfaces are clean. All it takes is a small grain of dirt to get between two steel mating surfaces and now things are out of alignment. I always make sure to wire brush all steel mating surfaces til they're shiny before putting things back together. If you keep everything clean, you will have no pulsing.
Pulsing is caused when you put things back together and don't make sure all steel-to-steel mating surfaces are clean. All it takes is a small grain of dirt to get between two steel mating surfaces and now things are out of alignment. I always make sure to wire brush all steel mating surfaces til they're shiny before putting things back together. If you keep everything clean, you will have no pulsing.
This is a picture of the part that is bent and the piece that it goes in. How does that ring go in there and where can I get another one cause mine is bent?
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 263
Likes: 6
From: Blue Ball, PA
Again, I'm not familiar with the auto hubs, hopefully someone with more knowledge/experience can help you more than I can. One question, have you disassembled both sides yet? I'm wondering if you can compare one side with the other and get an idea of what's going on. the bent ring looks like a retainer, you might have to go to a Jyard to get a replacement.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,691
Likes: 6
No doubt a warped rotor will do it. But make sure you clean the mating surfaces when you put it back together. If the tiniest of particles gets in between two mating surfaces, you'll create yourself another warped rotor.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 263
Likes: 6
From: Blue Ball, PA
I guess we can at least give the PO a point for being consistent and reassembling both sides incorrecttly?!? Other than trying to decipher exactly how a chiltons or haynes tells you how to do it--- Is there anyone else out there with more knowledge and experience with auto locking hubs that can help zxwut? ?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
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From: Fort Worth
Everything is done and back together and the test drive looks and feels good. Fresh wheel bearings, pads, and resurfaced rotors. I dipped the hubs in mineral spirits and then lubed them up but they still aren't working so I'm going to pull them apart. The 3 pointed dealio on the inside of the hub body spins and moves up and down but it has no tension on it on either hub so I'm assuming the spring broke or something. Ugh...
On the other hand, I know how to pull the hub body and the hubs off and put them back together now lol. On the bad side, 4 wheel drive still is a no go.
On the other hand, I know how to pull the hub body and the hubs off and put them back together now lol. On the bad side, 4 wheel drive still is a no go.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 263
Likes: 6
From: Blue Ball, PA
The auto hubs may have just gave up the ghost. They are expensive to replace as the only place I know to get them is from Ford. Most people, including myself, install manual hubs in place of the autos.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
I would install the Warn manual hubs if I had the money, but I don't right now so I'm trying to fix these if I can. I'm going to pull them apart later and see if the spring is broke.