Cruise Control Relay

http://www.switchfires.com/
I got my truck in as soon as possible, after I received my notice, and my dealer only had one cruise control switch left.
So, it is possible that the previous owner took the truck in to have the part replaced and was told that no parts are available. At that point, for safety reasons, the dealership might have simply disconnected the electrical connector on the defective switch.
I would check that first. If it is disconnected then simply reconnect it and take the truck for a quick spin down the road. Attempt to set the cruise control. If it does set then you'll know that the recalled part is the problem.
Just be sure to disconnect the electrical connector again. It was disconnected for a reason.
Then, if your dealership still doesn't have any replacement parts available, just go get one at your local parts store. They are only about $20 and it will take you less than 5 minutes to change it out.
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When I took my truck in, for the recall, the dealership did notice that the switch was leaking. I was lucky enough to get the last switch they had in stock at that time.
But, if someone were to take their truck in for the recall, it was found to be leaking, and no part was available, then the dealership would simply disconnect the switch.
I was just thinking that this might be what the previous owner of this truck did. And, he either forgot about getting a new switch installed, or simply sold the truck and made it somebody else's problem.
That's why I suggested that this Poster look to see if it had been disconnected, temporarily reconnect it, take a quick test drive to see if the cruise control activates, then disconnect the switch and get a replacement part.
As John suggested try checking the fuse.
If the fuse is fine then you'll soon learn about all the other parts that activate/run the cruise control.
Those parts are: brake pedal cutoff switch, clutch pedal cutoff switch (if you have a manual transmission), the cruise control servo, the throttle body linkage, and the clock spring.
The cruise control can be deactivated in several ways. And, any one of those ways will prevent it from being set.
About a year after having the recall done on my truck my cruise control stopped working. It would flash once when I attempted to set it, but it never would activate. That's when I learned more about the cruise control than I ever really wanted to know.
In my case it turned out to be a defective clutch pedal cutoff switch. It cost around $100 for the part and took about 15 minutes to install it.
Is your truck a manual? If not then you can disregard the clutch cutoff switch.
Does your horn work? If so then you can probably disregard the clock spring.
The cruise control servo is usually mounted on the drivers side front fender wall. Pop the hood and look for it. The brake pressure control switch (the Ford recall part) will connect to it. And, there will be a long cable that comes out of it and connects to the throttle linkage in the throttle body housing.
Unless water has leaked into the servo itself (it contains a circuit board), and corroded it, then the servo is probably fine. However, you should remove the throttle body housing and verify that the control linkage is still connected. Sometimes that cable will pop off the throttle linkage. It's easy to reconnect it if it has popped off.
Cable still connected? Then I would suspect the brake pedal cutoff switch. It's mounted on the brake pedal near the firewall. You can see it, and access it, from inside the truck. Although it's not in the most comfortable spot.
You can try disconnecting the electrical connector and running a jumper wire on the main wiring connector. I believe there are four metal "pins" on the connector. Two provide the electrical current to the brake lights when you press the brake pedal.
The other two send a signal to deactivate the cruise control when you tap your brakes. You'll have to play around with the jumper wire to make sure you have connected it to the right pins.
Disconnecting this particular switch will not affect your ability to stop the vehicle, but it will prevent your brake lights from coming on. So, if you do test this cutoff switch, please find a deserted area where you can bring the vehicle up to cruise control speed (around 35mph) to test the cruise, but without fear of being hit from behind due to no brake lights.
Of course the safest thing to do would be to take it to a diagnostic center where everything can be tested in a controlled way.
But, that would defeat the purpose of forums like this for us guys who like to save money, learn new things, and fix our own problems.

WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
Note:
There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
— 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
— 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
— 4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
4. Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
5. Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.





