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Starter or solenoid?

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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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Starter or solenoid?

My 79 F250 has developed a rather annoying problem. When it's hot and I shut it off, it has a hard time restarting. This left me stranded on the scales once and jumping didn't help the issue. I think it's the starter binding up, but I haven't tried jumping across the firewall-mounted solenoid either. If the truck's cold or has a chance to cool off for a while it starts fine. Guess I could just start at the top and begin replacing parts til it works, but don't like the possible consequences of being wrong and stranded again. So what's the likely culprit here?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:56 PM
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have the starter tested first before you do anything,do you have headers ?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 05:31 PM
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i agree with 79f2506.6L, take the starter to a parts place most of them will test them for free.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 06:51 PM
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If the starter checks out, turn the timing back a little bit. Struggling to start hot can be caused by the timing too far advanced.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'll get the starter bench-tested tomorrow. And no, 79f2506.6l, it doesn't have headers. It's a pretty stock 460, or maybe 429--the sticker seems to have the code for a 360/390 so I'll look at the block when I pull the starter and see if I can at least find out what year the motor is...
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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Okay.* Got starter out over the wkend, parts store managed to test it, they say it's fine, after a long consultation with a parts book to find the right part #. This starter has a solenoid on it, and the s terminal has been jumped to the main terminal.* This thing sits really close to the exhaust manifold--couple inches max with the solenoid up toward the major heat.** I assume a stock starter for a 79 460 has no solenoid since its got one mounted on the fender...is it likely that the problem is heat affecting the starter-mounted solenoid?* When it stops working, it's like it's completely frozen--I get a click, but no turning of the starter motor.* Could I remove the solenoid from the starter motor and bolt the main lead from the starter motor to the lead from the fender-mount solenoid and not damage the starter?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by GR8NW
Okay.* Got starter out over the wkend, parts store managed to test it, they say it's fine, after a long consultation with a parts book to find the right part #. This starter has a solenoid on it, and the s terminal has been jumped to the main terminal.* This thing sits really close to the exhaust manifold--couple inches max with the solenoid up toward the major heat.** I assume a stock starter for a 79 460 has no solenoid since its got one mounted on the fender...is it likely that the problem is heat affecting the starter-mounted solenoid?* When it stops working, it's like it's completely frozen--I get a click, but no turning of the starter motor.* Could I remove the solenoid from the starter motor and bolt the main lead from the starter motor to the lead from the fender-mount solenoid and not damage the starter?
No you can`t. I don`t know your setup but it sounds to me like you are missing a heat shield for the starter. You may also want to try to lube the starter nose shaft with a light weight oil before you refit it.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 08:22 PM
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have you tried turning on the key and jumping across the solenoid, if you havent i would and have tried it, make sure your insulated, just my $0.02
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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When it won't start, check for voltage at the relay from the ignition switch. Could be the neutral safety swicth. Had a car one time same symptoms went though everything like you and discovered that was the problem. When they get hot there is too much resistance in the circut and the vlotage doesn't make it to the relay.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by lvmadsigntist
When it won't start, check for voltage at the relay from the ignition switch. Could be the neutral safety swicth. Had a car one time same symptoms went though everything like you and discovered that was the problem. When they get hot there is too much resistance in the circut and the vlotage doesn't make it to the relay.
Thanks. I hadn't even considered that. I've got it a little torn apart looking for a dashlight problem. I'll check it out if it fails again.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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i would also check all of your grounds...
 
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