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the heads are far more restrictive then the bowl...there are a lot of guy's running the bowl at 5 to 600 hp..snow white ran 700 HP with bowl in place..it was posted some place by its owner and reported the bowl didn't fall behind at all..it was the heads that fell behind....the bowl mod is not worth the time and effort..unless you remove it completely....and then all it does is clean up the valley and made for less possable fuel leaks from orings.....after replacing the drain vale oring twice in a years time..my bowl is deleted and im happy with that..clean valley and 8 dollar filters are nice..
the heads are far more restrictive then the bowl...there are a lot of guy's running the bowl at 5 to 600 hp..snow white ran 700 HP with bowl in place..it was posted some place by its owner and reported the bowl didn't fall behind at all..it was the heads that fell behind....the bowl mod is not worth the time and effort..unless you remove it completely....and then all it does is clean up the valley and made for less possable fuel leaks from orings.....after replacing the drain vale oring twice in a years time..my bowl is deleted and im happy with that..clean valley and 8 dollar filters are nice..
When you say the heads are the restriction, what do those high hp guys do in regards to those ports? Do the feed the fuel rails through these, or the ports on the top of the heads? Or do they drill the end ones out like I, Toreador, and the powerstrokehelp guy tried to do?
both..but the RR kit takes care of where the fuel line feeds in... its been said best gains are feeing the heads right there at them 2 pots at the end of the fuel rail..but 2 front ports have the alt and A/C bracket in the way.as for.the back...the driver side is easy..but passenger side the DP gets in the way...couple guy's drilled the end of the stock plug and welded a 90* on the out side and made it work...even drilling the heads..the bowl is still not a restriction..
When you cant start truck remove fuel filter cap and check if you have fuel inside .I you fuel filte is not full then unplug fuel line from fuel pump is located on driver side on the rail and take air from compresor and conect trhru this hose and put 100psi tru the tank line shoul clean.This work for me.Check fuel cap link this ruber is very important if you lose presure in fuel filter then be very hard start.
both..but the RR kit takes care of where the fuel line feeds in... its been said best gains are feeing the heads right there at them 2 pots at the end of the fuel rail..but 2 front ports have the alt and A/C bracket in the way.as for.the back...the driver side is easy..but passenger side the DP gets in the way...couple guy's drilled the end of the stock plug and welded a 90* on the out side and made it work...even drilling the heads..the bowl is still not a restriction..
Well for my moderately modded truck that will never by over 400 hp, I'm not going to mess with the ruel rail ports anymore. Heck, I've got to replace 2 of them anyway cause I tried to drill them out. Oh well. Maybe someday if I have a project truck that is gobs and gobs of hp, then I'll just feed and return through the rail ports.
I'm removing the bowl for the same reason you did Ron. To clean the top of the motor up and to get rid of all the leaky orings.
When you cant start truck remove fuel filter cap and check if you have fuel inside .I you fuel filte is not full then unplug fuel line from fuel pump is located on driver side on the rail and take air from compresor and conect trhru this hose and put 100psi tru the tank line shoul clean.This work for me.Check fuel cap link this ruber is very important if you lose presure in fuel filter then be very hard start.
Be sure to remove the Fuel cap before you put that much air in the fuel line. Otherwise something might explode!
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