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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #31  
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Here's a link to some on e-bay it says "Firemist Orange" but doesn't say "glow". It's only a little over $100 with shipping? Just thought I'd throw it out there.

eBay Motors: Firemist Orange QUALITY ACRYLIC ENAMEL Car Auto Paint (item 220354338374 end time Mar-02-09 21:13:56 PST)
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by myv-879
kshaneh - I looked at those mags today when I took my cousin to the tyre shop with his bmw. I was wondering how they woul;d look on a F truck.
what do you mean?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by jsutton
Here's a link to some on e-bay it says "Firemist Orange" but doesn't say "glow". It's only a little over $100 with shipping? Just thought I'd throw it out there.

eBay Motors: Firemist Orange QUALITY ACRYLIC ENAMEL Car Auto Paint (item 220354338374 end time Mar-02-09 21:13:56 PST)

thanks for lookin out man, he!! i might buy a gallon next month just to have it when im ready to paint.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 01:17 PM
  #34  
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No problem, I remembered seeing it a while back, I was thinking about going with the "Firemist green" for my truck, mine was originally dark Jade green. I decided I'm going to leave it flat black for a while longer though.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 01:20 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by jsutton
No problem, I remembered seeing it a while back, I was thinking about going with the "Firemist green" for my truck, mine was originally dark Jade green. I decided I'm going to leave it flat black for a while longer though.
that thing lookes pretty cool in flat black imo. ill have to look up the color to see what it looks like
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #36  
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I have used the Kustom Shop base/clear Daytona Blue Metallic Pearl. It's actually some pretty nice material for the price. However, this was my first paint job and I ended up buffing through the clear coat in one spot with thehigh speed buffer. If I was going to do it again, I would probably try the single stage urethane or acrylic.
Daytona Blue Pearl #2510
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 02:40 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 73CaliF100
I have used the Kustom Shop base/clear Daytona Blue Metallic Pearl. It's actually some pretty nice material for the price. However, this was my first paint job and I ended up buffing through the clear coat in one spot with thehigh speed buffer. If I was going to do it again, I would probably try the single stage urethane or acrylic.
Daytona Blue Pearl #2510
that car looks nice, when i found that site, i like alot of the colors on there. I dont think the prices are to bad at all. Then again i dont know sh!! when it comes to painting and what all i need. I know how to make things run. im goin to collage right now to become an ase certified technician. I cant wait until i get into a dealership and start working.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 02:59 PM
  #38  
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One thing that I can tell you is that bodywork and painting is an art. Being my first paint job, it didn't turn out too bad. However, I can't tell you how important it is to make sure your bodywork and paint prep is perfect before even spraying your first coat of primer. I used two gallons of primer on that car before I got things straight enough to paint. I ended up using a full gallon of paint and about 3 coats of clear. If you are doing it yourself, I would go with the single stage. The base/clear system can be done, but its a hellava lot of work.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:05 PM
  #39  
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Yea i was just thinking of patching all the bad spots on the "new" body and having it sent out to a paint shop and professionally done. theres a guy about 7 miles away that does really good work.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:24 PM
  #40  
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and single stage is cheaper from what i hear, and 73caliF100 is correct, the prep work is everything in a paint job, sure you have to spray the paint coats good and know what you are doing, but the prep work can either make or brake a paint job, i have seen on the internet before people using rustoleum, and the results are amazing, the prep work is what made there cheapo paint jobs great looking, and then they wet sanded the paint after and then put a coat of wax on, but then again i don't know how long that would last, but its a cheap fix for someone who doesn't have or doesn't want to spend the cash, but singel stage paint is cheap from what i hear, and i watched the power block on speed channel and they made a project called cheap Cherokee and the paint from PPG cost on 90 bucks? with hardener and it came our really nice., and like Chip Foose's father told him "PAY ATTENTION TO THE DETAILS!" and your paint job will come out sweet! prep work prep work prep work can't be stressed enough!
-Brent
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 1977f150xlt
and single stage is cheaper from what i hear, and 73caliF100 is correct, the prep work is everything in a paint job, sure you have to spray the paint coats good and know what you are doing, but the prep work can either make or brake a paint job, i have seen on the internet before people using rustoleum, and the results are amazing, the prep work is what made there cheapo paint jobs great looking, and then they wet sanded the paint after and then put a coat of wax on, but then again i don't know how long that would last, but its a cheap fix for someone who doesn't have or doesn't want to spend the cash, but singel stage paint is cheap from what i hear, and i watched the power block on speed channel and they made a project called cheap Cherokee and the paint from PPG cost on 90 bucks? with hardener and it came our really nice., and like Chip Foose's father told him "PAY ATTENTION TO THE DETAILS!" and your paint job will come out sweet! prep work prep work prep work can't be stressed enough!
-Brent
i have to agree with the prep work and the attention to details bit. ive seen sum paint jobs turn out nice but like a month later you could tell that they didnt do much with the prep, aka the pain was chipping off easy. then the infamous bondo cracks
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:30 PM
  #42  
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i think you can do the work your self, its not really hard, and what do you mean "new body" ? are you putting a new bed on the truck?, i think you can do this, just take your time, and you can do anything, also i suggest using epoxy primer (its black) that stuff is really good stuff! if you have bare metal showing after you grind old paint or bondo off, its best to cover it with epoxy primer, actually we did that too the entire truck! hood, fenders doors, cab, behind cab, and the box is next, and after we sand blasted the frame we put the black epoxy primer on it, mind you it fades in the sunlight, but then again its under the truck so no worries! and then you coat the truck in Gray self etching primer, then whatever paint ya want! its not that hard to at least prep your truck, take your time and you can do it, also you might be able to get friends or family that has done this before to give ya a hand or some tips? just my 2 cents
-Brent
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:35 PM
  #43  
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the new body ill show ya
this the old:

this is the "new":
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:40 PM
  #44  
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whats wrong with the old? and whats the difference with the new? it looks like a 77, and is it rear wheel drive? and the 78 is 4x4 right? is that why your swapping? the 77 must be in mint shape compared to the 78? in the picture the 78 looks not bad, but then again i can't see the floors either
-Brent
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:48 PM
  #45  
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you wanna see the floors, mine is a 78 1/2 4x4 and his is a 76 2wd. hit is inalot better condition than mine is
 
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