When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello,
I'm new to this forum but not to this website or Ford Trucks. I have a '74 restored and have used the forums for lots of info.
I just purchased a '51 Ford truck (my first one of this vintage, I have everything from a '62, many 73-79's, an '86 and my dads '89). So I am no stranger to Fords, but I guess the '48-60's are new to me.
My question is this. I want to make the '51 a nice cruiser, so I plan to do some kind of Frame swap. I have done some research on this forum on the subject. It looks like the jag one is one of the easier ones to do, but that is not an option for me. I did read the the '80's Crown Vics work good. Right now that is what I'm leaning towards. I have access to a few CV parts cars, and like the idea of having the Fuel injection and possibly AC. I can get my hands on a '89 police CV, which is what I might use because I know the brakes and suspension are a little beefier on the police packages.
I was also wondering if anyone ever tried something a little older, something that a 390 would fit on. I was also thinking of that, just because I'm partial to the 390's with all my 70's trucks I have, I thought it might be kind of cool to put a 390 in the '51. would a galaxie or LTD from that era work, or is it to big?
I guess unless it would be a lot simpler, I'm still leaning towards the late '80's frame so I can have the FI, OD tranny, etc. Is there a Ford Frame that is easier to mate up.
I won't be starting this project till at least summer if not later, but would like to get my ducks in a row before I begin. What do I need to look out for?
Thanks for the help,
Bucktruck
Welcome to our little corner of the world Bucktruck!
First, I think you are confusing a frame swap with an independent Front Suspension install onto a stock frame.
The Jag and CV install you might have read about is installing the IFS onto the stock F1 frame, not a frame swap.
AFA complete frame swaps, that is a much discussed topic around here. No one has found a completely satisfactory replacement frame so far. Many have tried and many are still trying, but no real sucess stories. The amount of work and skills required is far beyond what benefits might be derived, and the negative trade offs are many.
There is really nothing wrong with the stock frames in our trucks for most applications, even the stock suspensions can be worked with. There would not be any restrictions on dropping a 390 into one, unless the engine has been heavily modified to well over 500 HP and/or you plan on seriously drag racing it. In that case boxing the (stock) frame and/or adding a center frame brace may be desirable.
Welcome to our little corner of the world Bucktruck!
First, I think you are confusing a frame swap with an independent Front Suspension install onto a stock frame.
The Jag and CV install you might have read about is installing the IFS onto the stock F1 frame, not a frame swap.
AFA complete frame swaps, that is a much discussed topic around here. No one has found a completely satisfactory replacement frame so far. Many have tried and many are still trying, but no real sucess stories. The amount of work and skills required is far beyond what benefits might be derived, and the negative trade offs are many.
There is really nothing wrong with the stock frames in our trucks for most applications, even the stock suspensions can be worked with. There would not be any restrictions on dropping a 390 into one, unless the engine has been heavily modified to well over 500 HP and/or you plan on seriously drag racing it. In that case boxing the (stock) frame and/or adding a center frame brace may be desirable.
Thanks,this is why I'm here.
I did have my terms confused, or I should have been more clear. What I'm looking at doing is cutting the front end of a crown vic frame off and welding it onto the '51 frame. I have access to to a shop with cutting torches and welders etc, so I'm not afraid of that. But I still don't want to make this more difficult than needed. Is it pretty straight forward? What do I need to watch out for. Is the CV a good choice for this type of swap.
This is JUST my opinion, and without going back and looking up all the treads (search) I think the Crown Victoria front track is too wide and the wheels stick out so you have to try and find wheels to compensate (poorly). I am also under the impression that the earlier CV had a built in front cross member but that the newer ones have a separate (removable) very nice aluminum front suspension cross member that looks like it would be perfect, its not, its too wide. Check the front track dimensions. Sorry, but I think from reading on here that your choices are Jag, MM II, Dakota or dropped I beam.
Ok, and again,this is why I'm asking the question.
So the CV is probably out. I've heard that an S-10 works pretty good.
I was hoping to use a Ford product, not just because I'm a ford nut, but because I pretty much only have ford parts laying around. I have a Ford engines, transmission, and I have tons of Ford wheels, so I was hoping to use a Ford frame.
I'm not married to any idea right now and am looking at options so that when I do start this project its as painless as possible. I can probably get my hands on any 80's or older Ford, GM, or chrysler product, its just which one to pick so I know to start looking.
Thanks so far, I've already learned a lot.
If you want painless go with the drop axle and monos, getting into any type of IFS/IRS will have some pain, even if you use a S-10 frame there is a lot of work in fabricating cab/bed mounts the bed would probably have to have a raised bed due to the kick-up in the rear of the S-10 frames.
If you want painless go with the drop axle and monos, getting into any type of IFS/IRS will have some pain, even if you use a S-10 frame there is a lot of work in fabricating cab/bed mounts the bed would probably have to have a raised bed due to the kick-up in the rear of the S-10 frames.
OK, I'll admitt,
The drop axle and monos is new to me. Maybe that means I'm in over my head already. Can you explain to me a little? Is this a kit, or are there kits available?
Thanks for the help, I'm glad I didn't get the cutting torch out yet
The front drop axle is an original solid axle that has been stretched which results in a 3"-4" drop. Mono leafs are a single leaf spring for the front or the rear of the vehicle which will give you a 5" drop. CCP also selld the new CNC tube walled drop axle for about $400-$450
believe the crown vic would be too wide for a `51, fits perfectly for a 53-56, if you need measurements i can do that for you! as for the s10 swap i have recently done a 51 chevy 1/2 ton and it was a breese! took the 51 apart and built mounts for the s10 frame, had it assembled in half a day! thats including installing a 350 to mock up, didn`t do any of the bed mounts i still have to cut the box down from long box to short box, as for mounting the f1 onto the s10 frame i`m sure with lots of measuring, patience! welder and cut off discs it can be accomplished, the frame has quite a rise in the back which will cause all the problems! mabe better off mating the s10 front half to the f1 frame?
There are a number of complaints with the monoleafs from those who have used them. If your original springs are not cracked or broken, they can be disassembled and every other leaf removed then reassmbled with slippery plastic strips (made especially for this purpose) between the remaining leafs. This will result in about 3" drop alone and improve the ride to 90% of a new IFS truck for little cost. There are some safety things you need to understand about taking the springs apart, so ask before doing. You can then rebuild the axle or install a dropped axle and replace the steering box with a power steering one from a Toyota 4x4. Now your truck will steer easily and ride well without needing more than a set of wrenches, no welding required.
Ok, I think I'm getting it now. This may show how little experience I have for this, but what about the brakes? Part of why I wanted to use the CV front end was to have power disk brakes. Is there an easy swap for the brakes?
imho the dropped axle is good if you want to spoon feed money wise .disc brake kits are available as well as having to change your steering and brake booster assy I think the best way is to bite the bullet and buy a mustang 2 kit complete less time and aggravation you sound like you dont mind fabing so i would suggest boxing in the front at LEAST just my opinion
imho the dropped axle is good if you want to spoon feed money wise .disc brake kits are available as well as having to change your steering and brake booster assy I think the best way is to bite the bullet and buy a mustang 2 kit complete less time and aggravation you sound like you dont mind fabing so i would suggest boxing in the front at LEAST just my opinion
Where do I find these mustang 2 kits? and is the suspension sturdy enough if I want to go with a 390, which I might if the CV is out of the picture.
Nothing meant for racing, but just the weight of a 390.
BuckTruck-
For some additional information on the Mustang style IFS kit go to the Heidts or Total Cost Involved (TCI) websites. Just google these companies. They are two of the leading suppliers of IFS kits and several guys on here have used them. They come with disc brakes and power steering is an option, as well as a sway bar, etc. Costs will be in the 1500-2000 range. Several guy's on here have also used the Jag IFS and some even the Jag IRS which are more reasonable price wise since they are from salvage cars but you may need to replace ball joints, etc. so that will move the cost up. Kind of depends on your budget.
I'd add Art Morrison to the list of quality aftermarket independent front suspension suppliers. Avoid like the plague any supplier who says you can use original MII suspension parts to finish out their partial setups. With the MII style setups they come with a specifically designed for the stock frame front crossmember that must be carefully placed then welded to the partially boxed frame. They come complete with all hub to hub parts including brakes, rack and pinion steering, coilover shocks. some offer motor mounts and springs specific for you engine choice as well as upgrade appearance and/or performance options. Costs are between 1600-2500.00 plus shipping. Research each manufacturer's offerings carefully before ordering. You will still need to provide aftermarket power master cylinder and steering column/wheel or modify the stock column to mate to the R&P box.
Which way to go depends a lot on your final vision/function of your truck and your pocketbook.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.