has anyone, done this. I was thinking it would be nice to stop a little quicker. Any one have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

Rear disc conversions are not worth the trouble, since the fronts do almost all the work.
I asked the same question a while back and the response was to modify and upgrade the front brakes.

Stainless Steel Brakes offers rear disc conversion kits, but they are pricey.
I am not sure if later model F150 discs from an 8.8 will be a bolt in swap or not. I am sure someone else has the technical information on that.

Rear discs will require you to have a proportioning valve to balance front and rear pressures.


I would say if you take your truck off road (mud and water) more than on road, do the swap, discs do shed wet stuff better than drums.

Running 35s like you do can make a person desire better brakes.
35s do max out the 1/2 suspension in all aspects.

Keep us posted.
Let us know what parts you used too.

 

I dont know if im gonna do it or not, Im just kinda thinking outloud. I saw Gearz yesturday and updgraded the brakes all the way around on a 70's model cheby, and it made me think it would be a good idea.

 

I considered it for a while myself but opted for the best quality brakes I could find... some well-made cooler-running front rotors and racing quality pads. Still cost less than the rear disc swap and I'm pretty happy with the results. It boiled down to the point khadma makes about the fronts providing better than 60% of the stopping power most of the time. And with our trucks being so short the weight shift to the front while braking is even more pronounced than say on a standard length F-150.

 

I was told you canvert very eazy and cheap. All parts are available on a Ford Explorer. Just unbolt and swap the backing plates. Even the e-brake cable should hook up. (Little drum in the center of the disc) The discs are allready sized for the praportioning. I'm told this mod is good for towing. But, I have not done it yet. One problem is (I believe) the new wheels have a metric bolt patern.

 

I also heard people swapping brakes from f-350's, what do you guys thing about that.

 

The 350 doesnt have a 8.8 diff. The disc's probubly wouldnt fit in a 15" wheel.

 

Check out this company Ford - Truck, I went with these on my 78 4x4 with 35's and I'm pretty happy with them and I don't think the price is bad you buy there brackets and use parts off the self or from the junkyard.

 

I saw that web site earlier, What should I look for for calipers? something of an exploder?

 

Explorer discs on my 96 Bronco.

 

I've been hearing the same thing. I just blew the rear diff in my '94 Bronco. I was in low/first, going down a steep hill -- it sounded like a bomb went off under the truck and the diff locked up. I got towed for a while before my brakes suddenly got soft. Someone behind me noticed my right, rear wheel walking away from the truck! I think c-clip retention sucks, so I've been considering a disc conversion just to have something besides a c-clip keeping my axle and wheel with me.

Anyway, do you know if everything matches up for a straight-across rear-end swap? What if I were to find a disc Explorer 8.8 at a wrecking yard to have rebuilt for me and then just bolt it in?

The after-market kits I've found are about $700 once you buy all of the required conversion parts. However, they even state that if you have rear ABS, you don't need a proportioning valve. The ABS handles it automatically.

I'm planning to have my existing diff repaired this week, and I'm ditching the spider gears for a Detroit Locker. If I can get some definite swap instructions for the Explorer disc swap, I'll do that instead! I'll take lots of pictures too. I just haven't found a 100% sure answer on how straight-across the swap will be, and I really don't need another unfinished project around my house!

Thanks,
-Derek

 

I dont know if the diffs are the same width. Thats a good idea about the c-clip extra retension. I have a full float kit on mine. The c-clip elimation was a big deciding factor when I bought it. Had I thought about it, I would have done the conveersion. (A whole lot cheaper)

 

Could you give some detail on your plumbing & e-brake connections?

And did you retain the stock Mstr cyl & proportioning valve?

 

I re-driller the rotors for the 5 on 5.5 on pattern, i bought e cables form a 2001 f150 with rear disc and shorten them.

I did not change my master cylinder or proportioning valve.

Works great, nice firm pedal, I winter drive and there is no issue with braking, its very well balanced even on ice.

 

Hey Bossind,

Thats cool. I need to get busy. By the way, what is Hydro boast?