hey guys, im jsut wondering if any of you have converted your breaks to manual, im wondering if theres a conversion kit you can get or something, i think my booster is toast

 

its not that hard to change 1 out all it is is 4 bolts i think

 

It would be a lot more work than changing your booster. A booster is only around $100 after you turn in your core; you just have to make sure you get the right kind. Are you sure the booster is bad? How do you know; what have you done to verify? I ask because they rarely fail and are often blamed for problems they didn't cause.

 

Replace the master cylinder with a manual version and make sure you get the pedal pushrod.

Just make sure you match the disk/ drum versions of the M/C

Bleed the brakes and you're done.

 

Do you know if the original lines that run from the proportioning valve to the M\C could be retained between the two setups - or would new lines have to be bent? Doesn't the M\C for power brakes stick out a lot farther from the firewall than manual brakes, or is this not the case? That's why I ask about the lines.

 

they might have to be bent cause w/o p.b. its shorter isnt it?

 

When I switched from power to manual all I did was take out the old m/c, and booster with brackets.

Bolted up the manual m/c with NEW lines from the m/c to the valve. Bled the system and it's off to the streets!

The old lines will be waaaaaaaay too short for the new set-up.

I also used a manual m/c from an 85-87 Ford Ranger. The older version is aluminum and newer version is the newer style with the plastic resevoir. Either will work and it looks trick.

Josh

 

Cool, thanks for that information.

 

Just a heads up Comment.

It's illegal to Downgrade a brake system.

IE: Convert Power Brakes to Manual, or swap Disc Brakes For Drums, or ABS for non ABS.

Source: Federal Motor Vehicle Safety standards #105 and FMVSS #106.

 

Well MAYBE it had manual brakes before? Who's to say

 

Would you have to change the pedal assembly? I thought there are different pedal ratios between a manual and power setup.

When you removed the booster and bracket then what do you bolt the manual mc to? I am assuming you would need to find a bracket from a truck with a manual mc.

 

Standard No. 105 - Hydraulic and Electric Brake Systems - Passenger Cars (Effective 1-1-68)

This standard specifies requirements for vehicles equipped with hydraulic and electric service brake systems and associated parking brake systems to ensure safe braking performance under normal conditions and emergency conditions.

Passenger Cars (Effective 1-1-76), School Buses (Effective 4-1-77) Multipurpose Passenger Vehicles, Trucks and Buses (Effective 9-1-83) Vehicles with Electric Brake Systems (Effective 10-20-97)
All braking effectiveness tests measure stopping distance.

Passenger Cars (Effective 3-6-95 until 9-1-2000), Multipurpose Passenger Vehicles, Trucks and Buses
(Effective 12-1-97 until 9-1-2002)
Manufacturers of passenger cars and multipurpose passenger vehicles (MPVs), trucks and buses with a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) less than or equal to 3,500 kg (7,716 lbs.) may certify compliance with either FMVSS No. 105 or FMVSS No. 135 described later in this booklet. After the terminal dates shown above, FMVSS No. 105 continues to apply to MPVs, Trucks and Buses with a GVWR greater than 3,500 kg (7,716 lbs.).
Multipurpose Passenger Vehicles, Trucks and Buses (Effective 3-1-99) Multipurpose passenger vehicles, trucks and buses with a GVWR greater than 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs.) must be equipped with an antilock brake system and meet additional stopping distance requirements.

Standard No. 106 - Brake Hoses - Passenger Cars, Multipurpose Passenger Vehicles, Trucks, Buses, Trailers, and Motorcycles, and Hydraulic, Air, and Vacuum Brake Hose, Brake Hose Assemblies, and Brake Hose End Fittings for use in those vehicles (Effective 1-1-68)
This standard establishes performance and labeling requirements for hydraulic, air, and vacuum brake hoses, brake hose assemblies, and brake hose fittings for all motor vehicles. The purpose of this standard is to reduce brake system failure from pressure or vacuum loss due to hose or hose assembly rupture.


Has nothing to do with either a manually operated or vacuum assisted vehicle brakes unless the vehicle was manufactured after 1995 in that case it must still have an ABS system.

 

To add to that it is illegal for an OTR truck or trailer to "downgrade" from automatic slack adjusters to manual adjusters if the truck or trailer was originally equipped with automatic adjusters.

 

perhaps thats the law in the states but i live in BC Canada so i think its ok, and im not dead sure but wee did bleed the lines 5 pumps bleed, 5 pumps bleed, and still its taking a good 3 pumps on the pedal to get some good stopping power, is there a way to tell where air might be getting in if thats the case? i know its easy to switch out a booster but my freind recomended switching to manual and i am considering it, id never have to worru about a bad booster again heh. ive searched google n stuff but havent come up with anything. thanks for the info though fellas! now if only i could figure out where the power to the fuel level sender is cut off... i hate not knowing how much gas ive got.

1977 F250 fire engine red highboy
351m 35" m/t

 

It has everything to do with a manually operated or vacuum assisted vehicle brakes, Disc and Drum Brakes etc... and has since 1968.

You need to read the whole of FMVSS 105 and 106. Not just a layman summery.

Electronic Code of Federal Regulations:

If you are still in doubt that downgrading safety equipment is illegal, I suggest you ask a lawyer. Also Your insurance company does not have to pay any damages if you get in a wreck, your fault or not, if the safety equipment, Which includes brakes, windshields, taillamps etc... etc... is downgraded or modified in such a way as not to be compliant to the appropriate FMVSS.