Hello everybody I haven't posted in a while took a break on restoring my Dads 1975 f150 v8 360 automatic but I'm back need help or info on replacing my steering gear my ford leaks alot of power steering fluid took it to my mechanic and he recommend to replace the steering gear is replacing that part dificult.

 

no, definately not. you will need something to seperate the pitman arm from the tie rod. im not very familiar with these specific trucks, but theyre all pretty much the same. these trucks leave alot of room under the hood so it should be pretty simple. just remove one and reinstall the other. don't forget to grease. i would replace the pitman arm at this time as well.

 

I just did this last weekend. You need a pitman arm puller. The nut that secures the pitman arm to the sector shaft is 1-19/64". The bolt that clamps down the rag joint is a 12-point 7/16" socket. Went fairly smoothly for me.

 

Yeah what FMC said. :)

My notes...
"out through the bottom"
"in through the top"
If you feel the need to rest...
Set the steering gear on a...
"digging bar {on the frame and} resting under control valve".

It's a 1+5/16" (33mm) nut and yeah buy or rent a pitman arm puller.
Don't even think about trying regular open-end wrenches on those flare nuts. ;)
Buy/rent/borrow some flare-nut wrenches. Ok? :)
Need a 1/2" and a 5/8".

How's the play in each one of your tie-rod ends?
This is as good-a-time as any to replace that stuff. ;)

Seems like a guy should replace the power steering pump at the same time.
{shrug}

Alvin in AZ

 

hello does anyone have a step by step of how to remove the steering gear for a 1975 f150 360 v8 c6 automatic. also any pics of the steps.

 

Me too, from my parts truck, gonna get it line bored and bearings installed. :)

BTW, I type with two feeners... ;)

Wash it first if you can?

From the '75 Ford Shop Manual...

"1)Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear."

Need a 5/8" and 1/2" flare nut wrenches.
Might get away with open-end wrenches since it's oil-based hydraulic stuff.
Don't even think about using open end wrenches on brake lines tho! Ok? ;)

Unbolt the proportioning valve's plate from the steering gear's plate.
Will need two 1/2" wrenches.

Using a 7/16" 12 point socket -remove- the bolt from the flex coupling.
1/2" wrenches to remove the other bolts in the flex coupling too.

2) {covered already}
3) & 4) {I disagree with these two steps!}

Leave the pitman arm on the steering gear, use a pickle fork to separate
the pitman arm from the tie rods. Pull the pitman arm after you get the
sucker out of the vehicle (IMO). Replace the boot when you put it back
together.

Might try removing the pitman arm from the sector shaft tho?
Mine wouldn't budge so got out the pickle fork and hammer.

"5) On vehicles with standard transmission remove the clutch...
{crank} to provide clearance for removing the steering gear."
{Yeah, I know-ed yours is automatic ;)}

"6) Support the steering gear, and remove the steering gear attaching bolts."

5/8" socket and a long extension, I used 1/2" drive stuff.

7) {covered already}
8) {covered already}

Alvin in AZ

 

Thanks Alvin from Az also the steering column is attached to that is it only a couple of screws to get that removed, what is the pitman puller used for do I need it for these steps you posted Now when I put the new one on I just reverse the steps is there any adjustment I need to make so I could get the same turning radius.

 

The steering column is attached to the steering gear with a rag joint, also called a flex coupling; as Alvin said it takes a 7/16" 12-point socket to loosen the joint from the spline shaft. I didn't have to loosen anything else, because once the pitman arm is removed from the sector shaft and the gear is off the frame, you can slide it out. Alvin's method and mine were different in that he removes the pitman arm from the tie rod end and takes the pitman arm out with the gear; I removed the pitman arm at the gear and left the pitman arm attached to the tie rod end. That means I pulled the pitman arm while everything was in the truck. It didn't give me any trouble.

The pitman arm puller is a special type of jaw puller that pulls the pitman arm off the sector shaft of the steering gear. Yes, you need it. It's $15 at any parts store or can be rented. But first you have to get the pitman arm bolt off. NumberDummy looked it up for me and said it was a 1-19/64" bolt. Good luck finding a socket for that. 1-1/4" wouldn't fit and 1-5/16" was too loose, but I was able to squeeze on a 32 mm. I know some guys who managed with a 1-5/16". You'll need a breaker bar as well.

I'd also like to add that you need to be extremely careful when you do this job because that sucker is heavy. Take your time and think about how you're going to get it in and out. Don't just unbolt it and figure you'll deal with the weight when it comes because it's heavier than you think. I did this job with the front of my truck on jack stands, lying down underneath. If you do it that way, never lie directly underneath the steering gear. Always have an "out." I was extremely careful to visualize what would happen when I set it free, and what would happen if it fell.

When you install the new gear, first you "guide" the steering column end back into the rag joint, then once it's fully seated you can bolt the box to the frame. Then tighten the rag joint coupling. The last step is to put the pitman arm back on the sector shaft. It's indexed, so you'll need to line it up. Push it back on as much as you can, then tigthen the bolt (don't forget the washer) to fully seat the pitman arm. This bolt takes a lot of torque. Speaking of which, you should look up the torque specs in a Chilton's or an equivalent (I'm not sure if the ones for my 79 were the same as a 75 but it wouldn't surprise me).

All this should be done with the wheels in the "straight ahead" position and the steering wheel centered, but even with doing that you may find that the steering wheel is off-center when you drive it. In this case you can just use a steering wheel puller and re-align. Follow the instructions that come with the new gear for filling and priming it. The only adjustment you can make to a steering gear is meshload which should be all taken care of from the factory (I should say rebuilder). You don't have to adjust anything yourself.

 

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/steeringgear.jpg

I figure I'll wash it using engine cleaner and a brush then hose it off before
messing with that dangged;) pitman arm again. :)

Pulling the pitman arm underneath the pickup will be easier for you -if- it
comes off easy, otherwise get out the hammer and pickle fork. ;)

The combination wrench is a 1+5/16" and the "plow wrench" is one I filed
bigger to fit the pitman arm nut and the ~1+1/8" spring/I-beam/radius arm
nuts.

Alvin in AZ
ps- The plow wrench was a 37 now it's a 37A
pps- wrenches used to be just numbered, not sized ;)

 

Yeah. :)
These aren't like the new ones.
On a new vehicle if the wheel is crooked, something's wrong.

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/pullers.jpg

The one at the top will work on the steering wheel.
You'll need one of the two "buttons" at the bottom of the picture.
Seems like two ~4" 5/6-24 bolts to screw into the steering wheel hub.
(the bolts usually come with the puller)

15/16"(?) socket needed on the nut.
And a stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the horn pad screws
from behind. I've fixed several horn pads (that'd been pulled out from
the front) for people using my stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver. LOL :)

You can do this! :)
After you tear into it you'll see what needs to be done as you go.

It's broken. :)
It ain't no good the way it is now, take it apart.

What ever tools you have to buy will pay for themselves the first time
you use them and every time you use them after that is pure profit.

Get a service manual danggit! ;)

The stupid ugly Gringo in AZ

 

ok so I just remove that one bolt that is attaching the rag joint to the steering gear and slide it out and the when putting on the new one just carefully slide it back in got it ok now I have to shop around for a gear box. U guys been great thanks.

 

Yeah, "in theory" that's the way to do it. :)
But what kind of shape is the rubber part in tho?
If it's soft then the steering will feel that way too.

Could you do something for me before you take the pitman arm off?
Get a helper to rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look at
(and feel for it too) the sector shaft's side to side play.

Mine was easy to see as anything. :/
Moved like a 1/16" from one side to the other ->before<- it'd twist.
Why it didn't leak like a sieve down there, I have no idea!

While you are at it might as well feel all the tie rod connections too. ;)
This part for yourself. ;)

The helper will need to rock the steering wheel easy sometimes and harder
other times so you can get a real-feel for any looseness in any of the joints.

Don't forget to pick up some large sheets of cardboard to lay on. ;)

Alvin in AZ