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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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Electrical nightmare

Need some help guys.. My 2000 F-250 wouldn't start this morning. It almost did this yesterday as well but today it just cranks. Imediately, I thought CPS and pulled my new (grey) spare out of the glove box and nothing. I know that a new CPS can be bad out of the box but in addition to this problem my dome light clicks on and off as if wired to the hazards and the windshield wipers go through one cycle when I release from the start possition. While cranking, the tach moves then stops, then moves, then stops. Thinking maybe something in the steering column but I am also worried that I may have a bad PCM or IDM.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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Is your SES light on? Do you know anyone with autoenginuity around you that can look at your truck?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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Don't know anyone with autoenginuity but may be into picking it up if I am stranded much longer. Will check on SES light now.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:13 PM
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Clean the battery posts and terminals and try again, and be prepared to possibly spend $150 on new batts. Mine acted very similar right before I replaced the batts.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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I think that Chase is right on here Bill. You need to have 10.5 volts minimum at the IDM to fire the injectors. The dome light is flashing due to the relay chattering because of low voltage.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:21 PM
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Just charged the batts and altinator is only about 6mo old. I have no SES light or recorded codes (old actron scanner). I will charge the batts again. If they are weak again already, I may have to agree with you but I have been trying to start the truck and I had the ignition on for a while trying to get it in the garage.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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Don't forget to clean the posts and terminals! Charged batts are useless if the connections are all gunked up.
Easy test for gunked up terminals- put the leads of your multimeter on the battery posts, then move them to the terminals. If the readings aren't darn close or the same, you're losing the connection due to corrosion.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:23 PM
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Unfortunately, I am building a new house and all of my lead cords are there. If I can get my charger connected to the batts in the truck I can prove or disprove batts by going to start mode.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:24 PM
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Just cleaned batts and terminals when the batts were out and on charge this morning. Will verify with meter.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:41 PM
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OK. Recharging batts, connections were good. While cranking, voltage drops to about 10.5. Also, there is a clicking noise coming from an electrical component under the drivers side battery. Is that the IDM?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:48 PM
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10.5 volts is the minimum that the injectors need to fire. I do beleive that the IDM is in the wheel well.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:51 PM
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This clicking was about at 1 second intervals. I believe you guys may be right about the batts but I still would like to know if that is the IDM. Is it toward the front of the driver side wheel well?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:53 PM
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Voltage dropping to 10.5 during cranking doesn't sound good... maybe starter is taking a dump on you?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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Cranking speed seems OK and no smoke. I am fairly certain that the injectors are not firing, just don't know why.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:56 PM
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Yup I just double checked and that is where it is.
 
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