DMF= Dual mass flywheel
SMF= Single mass flywheel
DP= Down Pipe
TC= Transfer Case


Ok, so we all know the DMF is a piece of junk, and at some point everyone is going to need to replace it. So I thought I might Share all my mistakes, so you wouldn't have too.....
So first thing I did was clean up my garage, and gather up all my tools, both Metric and Standard, because you will need both. You will also probably want a good tranny jack on wheels, and at least two jack stands.
#1. Remove both front and rear drivelines, you might want to hit the nuts with some WD-40 and let them sit for a few, mine on the frond driveline on the TC side were a pain to get off.
Note: The funny torques type driver needed for the rear driveline where the drive line connects to the Diff is a size T-40.
#2. Undo all the wires running to the TC and Trans, and undo the TC gear shifter linkage from the Trans, after you have pulled out the shifter itself.
#3. Ok, this is the part where many of you are going to call me a sissy. I decided with much heart ache that I was going to pull the TC and Trans separately. In my research I found most guys pulled them together, but I was doing most of the work by myself, and I really don't know how I would have done it with them together. Even getting it out from under the truck would have been a night mare. Props to you studs who can get it out in one piece.
So anyways, go ahead and unbolt the TC after it had been drained, and supported by a jack of some sort. I used my Trans jack to get it down. I recommend using some sort of wooden brace to compensate for the angle the TC is bolted in at, or your Trans Jack may be able to tilt like mine could.
#4, Once the TC is gone, Unbolt all of the Trans support/cross member bolts, even the really hard to reach ones, if you don't know what I’m talking about, you will. Everything has to come off. Next, remove the Starter and clutch inspection pan. After those are removed, go up top and remove the shifter. To remove the shifter, remove the screws underneath the last flap of the shifter boot, and then pull back the boot and remove the four allen bolts.
Note: The Allen bolt size is 5 mm. Get the kind that fit on a ratchet, they work a lot better.
#5 Place the Trans Jack under the tranny, and secure it with a chain (see photo's for chain set up.) Jack the trans up and remove the cross member.
#6. lower it back down around its original height, and remove all the lower bolts that connect the trans to the motor. Then lower the trans down and with the help of every extension you have (I had to go buy more) Get at the top two bolts. See pictures.
After that, go ahead and pull the tranny out. The best way I found is two sit behind the Tranny and pull it out that way. If you can, I would recommend having the trucks on jack stands, to add more height and working room. Even with my truck on jack stands, I had to slide the tranny off the jack and drag it out though.
#7 Next, remove the clutch. Make sure you undo each bolt a turn at a time, so the clutch doesn't bind up.
#8 After the Clutch is off, unbolt the DMF and let it just fall to the ground. I put a big plate of steel under it, but I am sure plywood could just as well.

Well, this is where I am going to leave you. Follow the installation instructions for the new clutch, because it seems every brand of clutch had a different way of doing things.

A couple of pointers though, my clutch did not have torque specs for the clutch, so we did it around forty-fourth five.

If you are installing a new exhaust like I did, Put the tranny in first before the new DP, It makes it a whole lot easier.

Ill add more to this tomorrow, but I need sleep.

Picture link.
Flickr: wwilcox428's Photostream

 

Reps sent good write up.

Although if you don't mind here are a few things I can add to this:
When I removed the tranny the truck was on wheels not stands. Stands do make more room though so it would be beneficial.
Drain fluid in both TC and tranny.
I removed my tranny with the help of my brother. Just the two of us. We removed the tranny and Transfer case in one complete unit using a standard floor jack. Yes a tranny jack would heve been better but it balances good on a jack with help from both of us, one on each side. There is a tab on the bottom of the tranny. That is about where you want the jack IIRC.
One the tranny was out it had to come off of the jack. We then jacked up one frame rail a little bit and yanked the tranny out from under the truck.

Be careful removing the DMF. IT IS HEAVY !!! I did not let it just drop because I was afraid that it would fall over and break some bones. I removed the bolts and grabbed it with both hands pulled it off the lowered it down.
... No broken bones.

On another note, this is an absolutely excellent time to replace the uppipe gaskets. It is extremely easy at this point and cheap too. You will thank yourself if you ever have to do them with the tranny in the truck.

Good writeup NewRed. I hope you don't mind me adding a few more tips.

If you want more pics see my H2e install link in my sig. There alot of pics there.

Hope this helps someone.

 

i would also like to add a few things if you dont' mind

i found that the 2 parts of the crossmember that bolt to the top of the frame don't need to come out and you can sometimes get to the top tranny bolts through the shifter hole if you can find the correct angle of the dangle and a swivel. LoL. when i did my clutch we didn't pull the tranny all the way out from under the truck. just slid it back as far as we could so it was out of the way.

Oh yeah, and i don't see any need to take out the starter. it doesn't get in the way of anything..

 

Here's how I did mine a couple weeks ago. Very thorough write-up. Mine is a stick and I was scared as he77 to pull the top off the tranny for fear of some linkage comin' apart down inside. It turns out it's a little gimble plate with a ball and socket. nothing to be scared of it turned out