I have a 2000 Ford F-250 PSD Ext Cab Long Bed - 6 Speed Manual with about 180,000 miles. I'm pretty sure its still on its original clutch and its time for a new one. Currently the clutch likes to judder on takeoff (probably a warped flywheel) and chatters sometimes in neutral. Oddly enough the clutch doesn't slip and has the adverse affect of being to grabby most of the time.

Anyway, I'm planning on replacing it next month and doing the job myself. I'm going to get a service manual and I figure its as simple as undo drive shaft, unbolt tranny, move back a tad, change clutch, then reverse removal. Has anyone done this before? Is it a can of worms on this truck or pretty simple? I was going to do it on jack stands in my driveway because my car lift can't lift my trucks weight...

As for the clutch, I dont do much heavy pulling. I mainly use this truck as my highway truck to motocross races around Texas. Amazing enough I get about 22mpg in this truck and its the most reliable vehicle I own.

Looking at RockAuto there are about 40 clutch kits to choose from. I'm not familiar with brands and they range from
ACDELCO PLATE KIT,CLU PRESS & DRVN (W/ CVR) [US vehicles]; WITH SOLID FLYWHEEL; DIAPHRAGM 13X10TX1 3/8 $331
to some crazy dual mass flywheel clutches in the $1600 range.

I figure you get what you pay for so I was going to try to spend around $500 on a "ok" clutch kit like the BRUTE POWER / PERFECTION CLUTCH Part # 91203SK {#MU702411SK} with Solid Flywheel; Optional; Diaphragm; 13x10Tx1 3/8; Includes Flywheel $476.79.

If anyone is bored and wants to go on rockauto.com and tell me which one to get or any other options I have I would be much appreciated.

Thanks for the advice and help.

 

here's a bump for you. I haven't replaced mine yet but have been looking ans watching. Valair seems to have a good kit several of the brothers have been very happy with. Luk is whats in mine now and it still works.

Barney

 

South Bend Clutch is a good clutch it is what I have in my truck. It comes in a complete kit (Flywheel, Pressure plate, Clutch plate, Kevlar pilot bearing, and a throwout bearing). They come in several HP ratings. I'm very happy with mine. I would also recomend changing your Hydralic release unit and your fork. I had a fork break on me after my first clutch replacment.
As for this being a peace of cake! Plain on 1 to 1 1/2 days doing the jod your self. This is a very BIG Transmission as well as HEAVY. Not to be done on a gravel driveway. I had my Truck up on HEAVY DUTY JACK STANDS in my shop and a transmission adaptor on my floor jack.(availavle from Northen Tool) with out this adaptor I wouldn't been able to take this job on.

Torin Big Red Transmission Adapter for Hydraulic Jack, Model# TRE2001 | Transmission Jacks | Northern Tool + Equipment

Again this is a REALLY BIG and HEAVY Transmission be careful.

 

I replaced my original clutch and all its components with a Southbend CON-OFE and it's a good holding clutch but it is definitely "grabby"( not going to slip the clutch while backing or going forward) it's either on or off. I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throw out bearing, shift fork and input shaft bearing with kevlar busing. It cost me somewhere around $975 in parts plus labor charges. Southbend has an excellent reputation as well as service and a great product but if I had to do it again I would look at a clutch which would be a little more forgiving.

 

Call Kevin at Valair. He can fix you up.
Performance Clutch - Ford PowerStroke

 

I have a South Bend stock horsepower clutch and love it. The pedal effort is much less than stock. I have also had a LUK clutch in the F250 and it was great as well. I could have sworn I saw LUK's name on the clutch disc for the South Bend kit... I could be crazy though.

Whatever you do, don't get a harbor freight trans jack. What a pos. It dropped the auto trans on hydraulic bypass and that doesn't weigh even half of the rated capacity. The trans is much lighter if it has been drained I noticed. I took 20 hours +/- to pull my auto, seperate the transfer case, install the South Bend clutch, install the manual trans and manual case, cut the floor pan, and do some shifter column work, so you should be able to get it done in 15 hrs max I would guess. I work slow too haha. Good Luck!

 

I know I haven't responded in a while...

but I ended up going with the SouthBend 6OK clutch (one up from stock) and I plan to attempt the install this weekend. I only have a 2WD so if everything comes off smoothly, I don't think it should take too long.

My final question is... I was talking with a fellow at work and he said while I have the transmission pulled and the flywheel off, I might as well go ahead and replace the rear main seal. I currently don't have any leaks but I have 175,000 miles on the truck and he said it would a good idea. What do you guys think?

 

That is the one I finally went with. About a month ago I put a new kevlar disc clutch in from Perfection Clutch. It was so grabby it tried to shake the truck apart every time I would try to start out. I ordered the Southbend from Clay and installed it last weekend. It works great except the throwout bearing must have been defective, because it squalled like a mashed cat. I pulled the tranny again Monday to change the throwout bearing. I did change the seal because it was damp, not hard to do.

All in all, I've had my transmission out three times in the last month. First time it took a little over a day to change everything. Second time about 7 1/2 hrs. Third time I removed and replaced the tranny in 3 1/2 hrs. That is one job I never wanted to be that good at

Being a 2wd you won't have the front driveline or the skid plate to deal with. You will need to have it up at least 10-12" off the ground to have room to work. Not having to deal with the transfer case will make the job easier.

Here is the transmission and transfer case beside the truck. Note it is a longbed.



When I installed mine last weekend I notice it said LUK/Valeo on the disc.

 

Now I think I'm in trouble...

Today I pulled the tranny, clutch and old flywheel, and I heard about a million conflicting stories about if I should replace the rear main seal since I have about 175,000 miles and "everything is already out"...

Well it looked old and worn and I had some slight dampness on the seal, so I removed the rear main seal tonight but the new seal I got at oriellys has this metal sleeve and doesn't slide on the crank like my old one. How did y'all install this properly? Is there a part number I can get without the sleeve? Please give me detailed tricks on how I should install the new rear main seal now that I'm up a creek with the old one off...

I really feel now I'm going to actually make my rear seal leak with this new one. Please help if you can. I'm spending money like crazy on this rebuild and I can't blow another $300 on some specialty tool.

 

The metal sleeve goes on the end of the crankshaft first. If you have a seal driver, it works best, but a wooden block will work. Drive the sleeve onto the crank until it is flush with the end or just a little past. Then use RTV and spread it on the block, not the seal. I put it on the seal first and made a mess that wasn't fun to clean up. Then use a little oil on the seal and be very careful when you install it that you don't fold an edge. Don't try to rush it. Maybe a good night's sleep would be best rather than trying when your tired and frustrated.

Any other questions, just holler.

Another thing, make sure the tapered edge of the sleeve is facing toward you so the seal has an easier time going on.

 

Corban, where are you on this project? Better yet, where are you in Austin? I'm Cody from Death Row Diesel out in Spicewood. I'm not far from you if you are in a bind, I'd love to help you out man. I work nightshift in Oakhill at freescale on the front half of the week. The diesel stuff is just what I do for fun. If you need anything, holler at me, if you don't get me, leave a message.

Cody
(512)663-6150

 

After fighting that sleeve on mine for about a half hour trying to get it on I put my glasses on and I can see that the old sleeve still on the end of the crank I had to very carefully chisel a Groove in it so I can peel it up and get some vice grips on it and rip it off then the new one slid right on. Good lookin out brudda Cody

 

Holy thread revival Batman!

 

Ya really...i remember Deluxe06 having an intake made out of exhaust tubing from filter to turbo, then having it and the cac tubes, hot coded..dand, she looked good