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EBPS tips

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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #1  
7.3 Rocket's Avatar
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EBPS tips

Here are a few things I've figured out while struggling with my EBPS recently.

1: Have a good ladder handy. It makes things a lot easier to see and get at.

2: Remove the serpentine belt from the AC condenser and Alternator before starting work. It makes the EBPS a lot easier to get at. To remove the top part of the serpentine get a 1/2" breaker bar and insert it into a hole in a tensioner on the passenger side of the truck. There are two idlers on that tensioner. Push the bar towards the drivers side of the truck and remove the belt from the condenser and you can remove it from the alternator even without having go hold the bar.

3: When installing the EBP tube after it is cleaned/replaced use a 5/8" stubby wrench instead of crows foot. MUCH easier.

4: Locating the bottom half of the EBP tube (if it's broken) is much easier if you have a second person there to help.

5: Make sure you have PB Blaster and assorted extensions on hand. They'll make your life way easier.

6: Be careful around the plastic fan blades. For a plastic fan the edges are pretty darn sharp.

I hope that this will help someone else's struggle with their EBPS a little eaiser.

Thanks Steve (Powerstrkn' ((my brother)) for showing me how to remove the serpentine.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Pete, I didn't have to take the belt off to do mine. But I do think you deserve a rep for this. Great job.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by miller_feed
Pete, I didn't have to take the belt off to do mine. But I do think you deserve a rep for this. Great job.
You don't HAVE to take the belt off, but it makes life SO much easier if ya do.

At least that's what I found.

Guzzle's guide said to take off the decorative engine cover which I found was totally out of the way.

I also used a 9/16" on top and 5/8" on the bottom which is reversed of Guzzle's guide.

Just a few little things I found when I was working on mine.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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Pete, I do think the fitting on the bottom is 9/16. The sensor is bigger then the fitting for the tube.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:07 PM
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Good tips Pete.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:11 PM
  #6  
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I'm talking about the nut for the tube is 5/8"

I must've misinterpreted it.

My tube came out in 2 pieces. 51$ for a dumb little tube. It still won't work right so now I'm gonna try replacing the sensor itself.

If I didn't intend to put a DP in the truck and do a bit of towing I would've just unplugged the EBPS and left it alone, but I want the DP decel tune.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:26 PM
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Also, IIRC, the early cover is different (and smaller) than the later models. I have since left mine off since I got tired of d**king with it. The bracket is still there, but that's coming off next time I'm wrenching on it too. The CCV coupler bracket will come off as well, if I can get to it.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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Good job Pete. I wonder how it would do if I were to leave my old sensor in the tube, disconnect it, secure a new sensor somewhere close to the tube, connect it and let it read atmospheric pressure? If this would work, it would eliminate the need for cleaning the tube. Sorry for the , I'm just thinking out loud.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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Good thread. One more thing. I just re-redid my EBPS because I messed up the RTV sealant. It pays to do those extra rounds of spray, wait and scrub with gasket remover and steel wool on the flange. I had to remove my bracket because I bent it torquing hard getting the old one out. Oh yeah, and when I broke the old one because I'm too hasty and crossthreaded it!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
The CCV coupler bracket will come off as well, if I can get to it.
That bracket is held on by 2 nuts on studs holding down the valve cover. very easy to remove, but the bracket also holds the 42 pin connector and keeps the wires between the IDM and injectors off the valve cover. I'd think twice about removing it.

If you don't like the looks of it, maybe you can cut the top half of the bracket off, but I'd leave the part that holds the 42 pin connector alone (except for maybe bending it toward the center of the engine a little more to provide more clearance between the wiring harness and valve cover)
 
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