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I have three quick questions. First, how does the electrical connector unplug from the sensor, is it a squeeze type or latch? Second, it looks like a 1 inch wrench will work. Did you need a 'stubby' or will a socket\ratchet work better? Finally, when cleaning out the EBP tube, did you disconnect it from the engine or simply run something down it into the manifold? Thanks in advance.
Mike
The sensor is a latch type. 8 or 10" crescent wrench will work fine but the valve can stay in the bracket. Disconnect the tube at both ends and run something through it to clean it.
I usually use a deep socket/ratchet and remove the two nuts from the thermostat housing, disconnect the tube at the manifold, and take the whole thing out as one piece, then disassemble and clean it.
I have three quick questions. First, how does the electrical connector unplug from the sensor, is it a squeeze type or latch? Second, it looks like a 1 inch wrench will work. Did you need a 'stubby' or will a socket\ratchet work better? Finally, when cleaning out the EBP tube, did you disconnect it from the engine or simply run something down it into the manifold? Thanks in advance.
Mike
It all depends on how rusted up things are. You may find that it's better to replace the tube and sensor. That was my case. The sensor turned and took the tube with it, started to twist it. After 110K miles, it was so rusted I had to cut the old one out. Dremel made quick work of that.
I have three quick questions. First, how does the electrical connector unplug from the sensor, is it a squeeze type or latch? Second, it looks like a 1 inch wrench will work. Did you need a 'stubby' or will a socket\ratchet work better? Finally, when cleaning out the EBP tube, did you disconnect it from the engine or simply run something down it into the manifold? Thanks in advance.
Mike
I believe its a snap plug lift snap carefully tho, I just took the tube off wrench the one close to the senser first ,like dataman said it could be rusted so you may want to hit it with pb40 ,, you will have to take the air box out for more room, after you get the tube out run weed eater line thru and check the hole in the senser and Manifold.
I replaced the EBP with a new one this afternoon. I also cleaned a nasty looking IAT2 sensor. I'm looking at the ScanGauge values for the IAT2 and it says the temps should be 113 degrees right across the board. That don't make sense to me. My values on the IAT2 were 150 degrees engine warm, Low Idle-High Idle. Is there a problem with the sensor or is it doing it's job? Why are the listed values 113 deg???
Mike
I'm not sure what you mean by 113 degrees right across the board? That temperature will vary with the amount of air coming in to the intake, boost, and ambient temperature. You should check ECT, EOT, IAT1 and IAT2 after a cold soak. They should be pretty close.
My Grandson, stole my glasses Damit. last time I checked values for IAT2 was 113 , operating=40-250, that looks good so far, check MAF? and plug clean senser with MAF cleaner ONLY.
I replaced the EBP with a new one this afternoon. I also cleaned a nasty looking IAT2 sensor. I'm looking at the ScanGauge values for the IAT2 and it says the temps should be 113 degrees right across the board. That don't make sense to me. My values on the IAT2 were 150 degrees engine warm, Low Idle-High Idle. Is there a problem with the sensor or is it doing it's job? Why are the listed values 113 deg???
Mike
I don't know where this 113* value came from. IAT2 will vary just like the other temp sensors will. It doesn't have a set value. Check it against other known good temp sensors on the truck after it's been sitting for an extended period to see if they agree. I'd say, depending on your ambient temperature, that 150 wasn't at all unreasonable.
Gotcha. That makes sense. I pulled the 113 deg value from a matrix that someone on this board provided indicating their acronym, description, and values at KOEO, LI, HI, operating range and units. It's fantastic and very helpful but the IAT2 @ 113 and the IAT @ 98.6 baffled me. Btw, my MAF sensor has a funky set of TORX head screws holding it onto the air cleaner. The screws have like an 'anti-tamper' tit in the middle. What did you guys use to remove the MAF and clean it?
Mike
Gotcha. That makes sense. I pulled the 113 deg value from a matrix that someone on this board provided indicating their acronym, description, and values at KOEO, LI, HI, operating range and units. It's fantastic and very helpful but the IAT2 @ 113 and the IAT @ 98.6 baffled me. Btw, my MAF sensor has a funky set of TORX head screws holding it onto the air cleaner. The screws have like an 'anti-tamper' tit in the middle. What did you guys use to remove the MAF and clean it?
Mike
I think that's pretty typical temps for a running truck. Remember that IAT2 is also compressed air, in metal, on top of a hot engine and it will be higher.
You can buy a set of anti-tamper torx bits, probably at harbor freight. I'm not sure you even have or want to remove it from the tube. Get some electrical cleaner specifically for the MAF sensor and spray it out.
Thanks for the reply. When I peered down into the snorkel, it seemed the wires were sideways in the MAF. I'm gonna pick up a set of those TORX drivers and yank the air cleaner out again and douche it real well. I appreciate the help. Ya know, my EBP's are still kinda high at LI and HI. Initially I mentioned on another thread that the truck made a weird kinda 'humming' sound coming from the engine exhaust area under certain rpm's. I'm really wondering if my catalytic converter is crumbling and partially plugging the system up. The muffler is only two years old. It might be time to head down that road. I'd love to keep the cat body but gut the damned thing anyways so it will pass visual inspections.
Mike
Thanks for the reply. When I peered down into the snorkel, it seemed the wires were sideways in the MAF. I'm gonna pick up a set of those TORX drivers and yank the air cleaner out again and douche it real well. I appreciate the help. Ya know, my EBP's are still kinda high at LI and HI. Initially I mentioned on another thread that the truck made a weird kinda 'humming' sound coming from the engine exhaust area under certain rpm's. I'm really wondering if my catalytic converter is crumbling and partially plugging the system up. The muffler is only two years old. It might be time to head down that road. I'd love to keep the cat body but gut the damned thing anyways so it will pass visual inspections.
Mike
I read somewhere that if, after replacing the EBP sensor, the readings still are not correct you need to check the harness and then the exhaust system for a blockage. I'd check the connector for damage and then disconnect the cat and recheck your EBP readings.