won't start unless you use ether
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won't start unless you use ether
this started 2 weeks ago. my truck was parked in the garage, wasnt that cold outside, went to start it, would only crank but no fire. shot in some ether fired right up. started fine for one week. now it starts about half the time, the other half i have to use ether. smoke comes out of the tail pipe, and i dont know if this is normal but smoke comes from under the hood also. this is really annoying so any help would be appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
the first mistake was using an ether based starter fluid... the sell non ether based starter fluid...
but when my glow plugs were not working and powered, white smoke would come out of the air scoop box and the tail pipe.
I would be checking you Glow Plug Relay, but more than likely the ehter has taken out a few of your glow plugs, so i would test the resistance on those glow plugs to make sure they are still good too... hope this helps
but when my glow plugs were not working and powered, white smoke would come out of the air scoop box and the tail pipe.
I would be checking you Glow Plug Relay, but more than likely the ehter has taken out a few of your glow plugs, so i would test the resistance on those glow plugs to make sure they are still good too... hope this helps
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 90
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From: UT
The best way to do this is as follows:
To test your Glow plugs using the UVC harness conection, first you must locate the connecters, carefully remove the connecter by pushing in on the latch and prying the connector apart (be carefully these are easier to break, they are even often brittle from wear and heat, the UVC harness may even need to be replaced). The glow plug wires are either the outside most pins on each of the 4 UVC harness plugs (2 per plug for a total of 8 wires). Or if you have a 99 and newer it will be the two outside most pins on each end of each of the 9 pin connectors ( 4 on each plug for a total of 8).
Get out your multimeter and set it to resistance (ohms) , using a straight pin and the positive lead of the multitester, (with the negative lead attached to a good engine ground) test the resistance across these glow plug pins mentioned above. Each of these pins should show a resistance reading between 0.6 and 2.0 ohms. If any one of them show a valve that is beyond this, either very low or all zeros (0.000) then it is bad and needs to be replaced.
To test your Glow plugs using the UVC harness conection, first you must locate the connecters, carefully remove the connecter by pushing in on the latch and prying the connector apart (be carefully these are easier to break, they are even often brittle from wear and heat, the UVC harness may even need to be replaced). The glow plug wires are either the outside most pins on each of the 4 UVC harness plugs (2 per plug for a total of 8 wires). Or if you have a 99 and newer it will be the two outside most pins on each end of each of the 9 pin connectors ( 4 on each plug for a total of 8).
Get out your multimeter and set it to resistance (ohms) , using a straight pin and the positive lead of the multitester, (with the negative lead attached to a good engine ground) test the resistance across these glow plug pins mentioned above. Each of these pins should show a resistance reading between 0.6 and 2.0 ohms. If any one of them show a valve that is beyond this, either very low or all zeros (0.000) then it is bad and needs to be replaced.
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
if you are up to the task, then by all means yes... but make sure its not the GPR that is causing problems first. cheaper and easier to replace than 8 GP
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Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Southwest Georgia
For glow plugs Motorcraft/Beru, Orielly's carry them. Also Bosh are O.K.,
DO NOT USE AUTOLITE, they will swell up inside the heads, get stuck and break off in the heads when you try to remove them.
DO NOT USE AUTOLITE, they will swell up inside the heads, get stuck and break off in the heads when you try to remove them.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Glow Plugs - Ford 7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Motorcraft Glow Plug
and this is how the GPR should have power... use a mulit meter to test it on a 0-20 DC voltage setting
Relay "on"
L=12v
L=12v
S=12v
S=0v
Key "on", relay "off"
L=12v
L=0v
S=12v
S=12v
Key "off"
L=12v
L=0v
S=0v
S=0v
and this is how the GPR should have power... use a mulit meter to test it on a 0-20 DC voltage setting
Relay "on"
L=12v
L=12v
S=12v
S=0v
Key "on", relay "off"
L=12v
L=0v
S=12v
S=12v
Key "off"
L=12v
L=0v
S=0v
S=0v
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
Checking the GPR is easy, take a chunk of metal (screwdriver) cross out the 2 big posts on it for 30-45 seconds, jump in the truck and start it up. If it fires up OK the GPR is bad.
I'll bet it's bad because you didn't get any explosions with the ether. If the GP's were hot and you shot ether into it....there would be damage to the engine, bent pushrods ect. Maybe even an explosion. Ether is BAD! BAD! BAD!!!!
I'll bet it's bad because you didn't get any explosions with the ether. If the GP's were hot and you shot ether into it....there would be damage to the engine, bent pushrods ect. Maybe even an explosion. Ether is BAD! BAD! BAD!!!!
